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Sapphire II - Feb 21, Day 45, Galapagos Tours



We came directly to Santa Cruz island from San Cristobal because it has the international airport and we have crew changes to make. Most of the other World ARC boats have gone around the islands clockwise, visiting Floreana and Isabella islands en route and so have not shown up here yet.

However, Santa Cruz is the population center of the Galapagos and has the best infrastructure for provisions, for restaurants (surprisingly good) and for booking tours. We have taken day trips (leave at 7am, back at 5pm) to South Plaza (sea-lions, many large land iguanas, marine iguanas which are smaller, blue-footed boobies which are peculiar to the islands (Photo Blue Footed Booby) and a variety of other birds). We went to Santa Fe, primarily for snorkeling in a protected bay with waters of blues and greens. We swam with the sea-lions, which was initially a little uncomfortable as these large grey "torpedoes" flash past up close and personal! Once you get comfortable with them it's really a thrill to see how dynamic they are underwater and how unafraid of the humans invading their space. We then left the bay and snorkeled in the open sea with a huge variety of fish of every shape and color. In one area the sea floor was carpeted with what must have been a school of at least 1000 fish about 18 inches long who swept slowly backwards and forwards in the near-shore swell. The high-light was the sea turtle who swam lazily amongst the swimmers. We did see rays and a 3 meter shark from the dive boat, but unfortunately (fortunately?) were not in the water at the time.

Today the gang went to Isabela, the largest, but least developed island. I stayed in Puerto Ayora doing boat things (arranging for fuel to be delivered in 44 gallon drums, which requires authorization by the Ecuadorian navy). While walking through the town's main street I came across a fish merchant's stall. He was cutting up good -sized tuna and was surrounded by pelicans waiting to be thrown scraps. More amusingly, there were 3 sea-lions who were in essence standing on their back flippers so that their heads peered over the fisherman's table, looking for all the world like large dogs on their hind legs begging at a dining table! While watching this spectacle, a blue-footed booby landed at my feet and frigate birds curled overhead.

I walked away from this amusing scene only to come across a good-sized iguana trying to cross the main street. You really don't have to go on many organized tours to enjoy the great variety of fauna the Galapagos has to offer.


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