Monday 30th June
We wake up before dawn to the wind whistling round the bay. If it was still flat calm we were going to motor to Lautoka on the inside of the reef but as it looks like we’re going to have wind we head out along with Andante and Cleone and set the sails at 6.45am. There’s 10-15 knots of wind from the SE and we’re on a beam reach going along nicely at 8-8.5 knots. At 10.15am, the wind drops so we turn the engine on and wind in the headsail. There’s a few short puffs after that but it gradually peters out, the sea is calm and we continue motoring SW towards Lautoka. The coast of Vitu Levu is interesting; mountainous with a green and bracken brown landscape – more reminiscent of Scotland than the South Pacific. Cleone call us on the VHF and report a whale sighting – unfortunately we’ve missed it. The sea is alive with flying fish – more than we’ve ever seen before – but no big ones for Stewy’s line! We arrive in Lautoka at about 3pm. There are reports of a sooty sediment from the sugar mill landing on boats if the wind is in the wrong direction. We decide to take the risk and try to get all our business done this afternoon so we can leave for Muscat Cove in the morning. Ashore, we get customs done in record time then take a taxi straight to the market. It’s a huge Asian fresh produce market – we go for the first stall we come to and buy a big load of fruit and vegetables, then hit the supermarket for the rest. This town is hugely different to anywhere else we have been in the South Pacific: the vast majority of people are Asian Indian and it feels like a small town in rural India. It’s busy and bustling with chaotic traffic, most of which is wrecked old bangers. There’s also the begging that you see in India, cripples and down and outs and people hassling to sell odd bits and pieces. Stewy gets stung for a few dollars for some Fijian souveniers. We load up a taxi with our shopping and head back to the wharf – they won’t let the taxi man through the security gate so we’re going to have a heck of a trachle getting this lot to the dinghy. Luckily, as we’re pleading our case with the gate men, someone in authority happens to pass and tells the gate to let us through, Phew!....we get right to the dingy dock. After unloading and stowing our supplies we’re jiggered and hungry so decide to head back into town in search of a good curry. We get a taxi man from the little indian café on the dock, then head back into town. We try to explain what we’re looking for and the taxi man takes us round a few places. The streets are now deserted and there’s no sign of an even half decent place to eat. While looking at one or two possibilities we’re approached several times by young prostitutes who clearly think it’s punters looking for business. These very young girls are not Asian, and appear to be native Fijian. They’re not drug-addicts and look well nourished and one can only assume they probably have young children to support. They do not seem put off when they see a woman in the taxi. It’s very sad to see these bonny girls on the streets. Eventually, we find a restaurant that seems to do everything and it looks quite busy – with a total lack of other options, we go for it. There’s an extensive menu, we opt for the craved for curries and wait with fingers crossed - they’re not good - we eat what we can and head home!