We've sat here now for several days, with the rain pouring down for much of
the time and squalls of wind lashing around us, and all of us rather at a loss
as to what to do. Luckily we are in a well-protected stretch of water,
with plenty of secure moorings. But competition for them has been fierce -
it's the law of the jungle out here - as well as World ARC, the Blue Water Rally
and a third (from New Zealand) are also congregated here. To be fair, it
is us who should have moved off by now, but there is really no reason for us to
do so. This is the only really secure anchorage around, and conditions
outside the island group are appalling. Quasar, who have happily just
managed to rejoin us after major but successful repairs, reported winds gusting
to over 50 knots and big following seas. But apart from keeping track of
our friends, what, you might ask, have we been up to?
This is difficult to answer without seeming
negative. This is a great place to be. It's a yachtsman's
heaven - the whole place is geared to us. The people are very friendly and
have been outstandingly welcoming. There has been lots of socialising in
the bars and restaurants that surround the yacht moorings. There is the
Bounty Bar. The big sign outside said "The Bounty Bar welcomes World ARC",
and they did. Simple food properly cooked, a variety of beers (sadly
all tinned or bottled and from New Zealand (and is there anything wrong with
that - my wife's grandmother was a New Zealander - Ed)), a great guitarist (ask
Will) and ample opening hours made this a winner. There is the Vauva'u
Yacht Club (AKA the Mermaid). It is full of friendly folks, has good food,
generous opening hours, and welcomes all of us and is full of people with good
advice. There is the Aquarium - more good simple food, internet and a
wireless internet at your boat - everything we need. There are quaint
boatyards with people who can improvise a solution to most repairs. There
is the Paradise Hotel. We are moored on one of Beluga Divings moorings just off
this place - it was where the great welcoming party was held. There is
Beluga Diving itself. Where else can you get a solid mooring in a
Hurricane Hole for only TPF (Tongan Dollars) 10 per night (about £2.50)?
And where else can you dive the coral gardens teeming with tropical fish for
only £45 for two dives, with such competent and friendly staff?
So we've visited the hotels, shopped mildly, but
not for the trip to Fiji, dived our fill, spent a wonderful evening in a Spanish
restaurant (La Paella) on a lonely island and done all sorts of other
things. The Spanish Restaurant trip was typical. With our friends
from Jus'doit, we took a minibus along a narrow, winding, rutted track and were
dumped in the gloom on a sandy beach with the promised ferry boat nowhere in
sight. An hour or so and several frantic phone calls later, and we heard
(amidst the pattering of rain on the tin roof of the only shelter around) a
small inflatable came puttering out of the gloom. Then we were (damply)
transported to a different world. Tables full of friends (Talulah Ruby and
Strega, plus our own group) and - magically - two other crews who the
Skipper had met in Papeete and here in Vauva'u were already enjoying a glass of
wine or beer. Then came the starters - Pate, devils on horseback and other
delicacies - followed by the Paella itself. All was washed down by copious
quantities of red wine or beer, and followed by our host (big beard, big voice,
great guitar man, Spanish and Jazz) entertaining us. Talulah Ruby's
current crew are from the Canaries with fine voices and a repertoire of songs,
and they joined the host's accompanyment with some wonderful singing. And
this was interspersed with some Jazz standards that kept our Skipper wonderfully
happy. At the end of this wonderful evening we set off into the darkness in the
damp inflatable, this time to find the taxi home waiting patiently for us. What
a great evening.
Today, maybe to atone, we went to church. They
take church seriously here, and to support our hosts, a long line of yachtsmen
wended their way up the hill to take their places in either the Roman Catholic
Cathedral or the Wesleyan church. Cleone's crew chose the latter. Although we
could not understand the words, the singing in perfect harmony, the brightly
coloured clothes and the warm words of welcome spoken in English by the
officiating Church Elders were truly uplifting, and we really feel that we are
being made welcome here.
The poor weather continues, with a promise of a
break tomorrow or the next day. So soon we will set out to cruise around this
group of islands before departing for Fiji and other wondrous places. We wish
you could be here with us.
All well here, and best wishes to
everyone.