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19/09/2019

Hawkeye - Mallorca!

Last week we were joined by our son Ross to help with the crossing from Sardinia to Mallorca. We have been enjoying Mallorcan hospitality and will do for the next three weeks as we are on the Royal Thames Yacht Club rally which also goes to Ibiza and Formentera.Today Alexandra and I met up with ARC 2019 entry Kilauea, which is a Nautitech 46 Open – and we’ll see them again in Las Palmas! 20190919_121637. read more...


Hawkeye - Mallorca!
Hawkeye - Mallorca!
Sweet Dream - Day 248 September 18, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 248 September 18, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 247 September 17, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 247 September 17, 2019
18/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 246 September 16, 2019

The absolute worst day of this passage. Here we are anticipating a lovely run into Lombok and we are met with squall after squall after squall. No rain, just erratic fluky, changing wind. At 07:30 we switched the pole and boom....put out the sails...wind changed to 120 degeees starbrd side. We took down the pole put the Genoa on the port side....wind heaved and swelled and backed round behind us...we put the pole in the starbrd side, put the Genoa on the pole. The dang wind stopped all together. We motored with sails up...we motored with sails down. The wind flipped to the other side. We moved the boom and the pole. We sailed with every single conceivable sail combination a cutter rig can offer on every point of sail....even close hauled with waves breaking over the bow. The single ,. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 246 September 16, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 246 September 16, 2019
17/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 243 Sept 15, 2019

Another really lovely day of gentle sailing. There was no way to predict our arrival time at the finish line when we first began. With the fluky, erratic, and non-existent winds of the first few days, we couldn’t even draw a bead in it until this afternoon. It is our understanding that the Atlas straight is best started on a rising tide, so it’s looking good to aim for crossing the finish line that lies at the bottom of the Atlas straight tomorrow evening between 18:00-19:00, Darwin time. Every passage ending is interesting because we travel and measure in our start Port time (this trip...Darwin time), yet we actually arrive in the end Port time, and tides and currents need to be figured in the actual time of the finish line. Some places it is of little consequence when we arrive in the. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 243 Sept 15, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 243 Sept 15, 2019
15/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 242 September 14, 2019

We’ve sailed all day today. Feels so good! Now, late in the evening we only have 12 knots of wind, but heaps of current in our favour. We are cruising past the island of Sumba about 20 miles offshore under a single reefed, poled-out Genoa alone, and still traveling at 7-8 knots through the water! Captain is reading a Zane Grey Classic, which is utterly bizarre since I am reading John Guzzwell’s ‘Trekka around the world’, and I read that when Guzzwell was in Russel, New Zealand, he met a chap who used to take Zane Grey big game fishing to Tahiti! What are the chances that Captain picks a Zane Grey story to read on the day I read that interesting bit of trivia? Serendipitous!I’ve read Trekka a couple times already, but just had to revisit it as Guzzwell travelled this very journey that we. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 242 September 14, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 242 September 14, 2019
14/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 241 September 13, 2019

Another rosy dawn burst upon the eastern horizon just as the fat orange harvest moon slid off the edge of the west. It was a magnificent start to the best sailing day on this leg of the journey.We had usable wind for a nice wing on wing glide the better part if the morning. Then Fideleo showed up on our port quarter. They got closer and closer and since we had the sails out on both sides we were unable to turn to Starboard to have enough sea room between us. Lars and Clement had a vhf chat where they teased about getting close enough to shake hands. Eek! Anyway, we needed to make some progress to the north side of the rhumb line anyway, so we took the Genoa off the pole on the starboard side and just put it out without the pole on the port side with the main, rolled away the staysail and. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 241 September 13, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 241 September 13, 2019
16/09/2019

Next Step - Funchal to Las Palmas

Monday 9th September, we slipped our mooring lines and headed away from Funchal, Madeira and out into the Atlantic on our way south to Las Palmas. After a short period of motoring in the wind shadow of the island we set the sails and had a great sail averaging 7 knots over the three days.Unfortunately, our attempts at fishing was pretty hopeless we did not get a single bite. Never mind we will have plenty of time to perfect our fishing skills going across the Atlantic in November and December.After a 255 nautical mile sail we eventually arrived off Las Palmas on the morning of 11th September. We got into the Marina Las Palmas, completed the usual customs formalities, re fuelled and by 1030 we had moored up at our berth on pier L.Over the next few days we will have lots of jobs to do on. read more...


Next Step - Funchal to Las Palmas
Next Step - Funchal to Las Palmas
12/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 240 September 12, 2019

Wind continues to be “light and variable.” That lovely euphemism for maddeningly close to not usable, and changing direction erratically every couple of hours. The moon is fantastically helpful, though, beaming with a noonday brightness all night long. It’s a really lovely friend on our night watches, especially as we approach Indonesia with its teeny little, no lights, no AIS, no electronics wooden fish boats. We saw our first one this morning. They altered course to pass us Port to port, just 1/4 mile away, waving hugely as we waved back. The day was easy enough, with a nice sail all afternoon between erratic wind shifts, and good progress being made toward Lombok despite our constant gibing. Twice today we have been visited by dolphins as they passed by us. These Timor Sea elves don’t. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 240 September 12, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 240 September 12, 2019
14/09/2019

Charm - Indonesia 2

Cobin celebrated the onset of his teenage years on the outskirts of the Indian Ocean.So far, he is a delightful teen-ager.We surprised him with “all day screen time” instead of school and, rather than retreating into a self-indulgent binge on devices, he shared all his electronics and gave the girls and Tyler tutorials on various games.He was pleasant, cheerful, helpful, and kind.If this is any indication of what the future holds, I can’t wait! Last night the girls helped me decorate the boat and we had streamers and balloons and signs all over when he woke up this morning.Tully stayed up late just to help out and commented that it was her “first birthday to help with.”I think Marin and Tully might have been more excited than Cobin. There were no “real” presents (Tully told me that kids. read more...


Charm - Indonesia 2
Charm - Indonesia 2
Charm - Indonesia 2
Charm - Indonesia 2
14/09/2019

Charm - Australia 8: The Top End

Human beings seem to have a lack of creativity in our ability to name things.The Australians are no exception to this and have named the area where Darwin is found the “Top End” because, as you might guess, it is at the top end of Australia.Its official name, no less unoriginal, is the “Northern Territory” but Top End is slightly more creative and has a nice double meaning, making it sound like that part of Australia is somehow superior to the rest.It’s an odd city, with bits of it poking out into the water and lots of tall buildings for a population of 150,000.Unlike the US, Australians seem to build up instead of out.They also build shopping malls that are like Faberge eggs – difficult to access the treasure inside. The kids and I went on a shopping/movie excursion to the mall and I. read more...


Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
Charm - Australia 8: The Top End
12/09/2019

Charm - Indonesia 1

First, a big thanks to my brother Kyle who did me a huge favor this afternoon.I had made a commitment to a friend and didn’t follow through.Kyle helped me pick up the pieces and finish it.We are so lucky to have the support structure that we have.My mother regularly makes phone calls on our behalf and takes care of various tasks.My sister and all of Joe’s side of the family give us moral support in the form of cheers and likes and notes and e-mails.Our neighbors, Phil and Laura, are managing our house rental and our stuff that appears and disappears with various “mules.”Heather and the crew at CityROCK are running the gym in a way that gives us peace of mind as we make our way around the world.Then there are all of you that are reading this and sending kind words and thoughts of support. read more...


Charm - Indonesia 1
Charm - Indonesia 1
Charm - Indonesia 1
Charm - Indonesia 1
11/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 239 September 11, 2019

We were motor sailing along with the main up when Captain called me to take the helm for radio time at 08:55. Our SSB uses so much power and gets so much interference from the autopilot, that we turn off the chartplotter electronics and give dear “Pi” a break when ever the radio is being used, so I hand steer a compass course while Lars mans the radio. Well, this morning we had a pleasant surprise! Just as I came up, a fat tuna was caught on the hand line. Poor thing! We discovered it just at 08:59. Lars said if it hung onwe’d get it after radio time. Well miracles of miracles, after all the fish we lose as we try to get them in immediately, this one stayed on the cedar plug lure hook for over 30 minutes! Captain filleted it out and I immediately put it in a pan of hot butter and sliced. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 239 September 11, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 239 September 11, 2019
Charm - Indonesia 1
Charm - Indonesia 1
09/09/2019

Charm - Australia 7

By my calculations, we will hit the reef (Eel Reef, to be exact) in 45 minutes.Just a few moments ago, we were literally between a rock and a hard place.It’s amazing how many of these little phrases come from the nautical world.I’m not entirely sure if that particular one is nautical but it definitely applied to our situation.I am on night watch on the eastern Australia coast and we are sailing with no engines on.We were coming up on Restoration Rock (where Captain Bligh and his remaining crew may have made a pit stop in their small boat after the mutiny experience) on our port side and a large cargo ship was barreling down the shipping channel towards me on the starboard side.In order to miss the rock, I had to go to the right but, to miss the ship, I had to go left.I aimed somewhere in. read more...


Charm - Australia 7
Charm - Australia 7
Sweet Dream - Day 238 September 10, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 238 September 10, 2019
10/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 238 September 10, 2019

The day began at 05:00. Coffee, lines rigged to slip, then waiting for our turn out of the lock. High tide was at 04:18 this morning. So as soon as it was light the boats began departing in order of keel depth. Knowing it was neap tide, it was imperative that we all get out quickly. Dani and her team really shined on the planning. Our World arc team came to see us off, and although with our full keel, we were the last of five boats through the lock, just as the sun rose, we scooted out across the sand banks with a foot of water to spare! It was a game of hurry-up-and-wait. Once clear of the sandbars, we all anchored off of Stokes wharf to await the 10:00 start. The south easterly wind obliged us, filled in to 15 knots for the start. We put out one reef in each big sail on a 120 port tack. read more...


Charm - Australia 7
Charm - Australia 7
Charm - Australia 7
Charm - Australia 7
Sweet Dream - Day 237 September 9, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 237 September 9, 2019
08/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 236 September 8, 2019

Today we travelled back to Darwin. The roads are mostly empty except for the intimidating “road trains”. I had just finished saying to Lars that they must be terribly dangerous, when we passed by one that was in a heap on the side of the road. Shudder! Also, there were lots of smushed wallabies lining the road. Not an enjoyable journey. We were happy to stop in Coolilinga to visit the fishing store, Kmart, and grocery market. We did a big provisioning shop, treated ourselves to apple pie and ice cream, then came back to the marina to put everything away. We are very happy to see Ice Bear next to us now, all of our WARC boats are here in Darwin, ready for the start on Tuesday. I caught the laundry up, and put away the provisions, Captain grilled us lovely steaks and veggies on the bbq,. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 236 September 8, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 236 September 8, 2019
09/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 237 September 9, 2019

Last day in Australia. In the morning we made a provisioning run for fresh stuff. When we came back, we organised the the first fridge just as a cooler and the second fridge into a freezer. Everything fit! Yay! We had a fast and easy check out with the lovely border patrol folks, then chatted with John and Lynnie who are crewing in Alora until it was skipper’s briefing time. This was a special treat with Andrew Bishop in attendance, and giving the sailing directions. I know it is his job, but it does give us a very warm, well looked after feeling to have the director of the World cruising club not only having seen us off in St. Lucia, but he travelled half way round the world to be here in Darwin to oversee the start of the second half of our journey. After the meeting, we indulged in. read more...


08/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 235 September 7, 2019

After a peaceful evening in Pine Creek we drove to Katherine and went for a cruise into two of the Katherine river gorges. Gorgeous! We ate our picnic lunch on the beautiful terrace of the Nitmiluk visitor center, then drove back to Pine Creek. Here we had the place to ourselves. We lounged by the pool, read, played with the WiFi, ate a simple supper of shepherds pie and had a lovely, no stress evening.image1.. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 235 September 7, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 235 September 7, 2019
08/09/2019

Charm - Australia 6

Upon arriving in the Flinders Group of islands, we found one other boat in the anchorage.The kids and I went to shore and Cobin flew the kite for a while and we gathered shells before heading back to Charm for the night.We were at Flinders Group because I had read that there was an indigenous cave with paintings in it that I wanted to see.The next morning, we planned to dinghy over to Stanley Island across the bay, walk along the trail to the cave and then leave to get some miles in on our way to Darwin.Of course, that all changed.While we were eating breakfast, the man on the boat next to ours, who we later learned was Ron, started yelling and indicated we should turn our radio on.Joe said, “He probably wants to tell us we’re on top of his anchor.”Instead, he introduced himself as a. read more...


Charm - Australia 6
Charm - Australia 6
Charm - Australia 6
Charm - Australia 6
Charm - Australia 6
Charm - Australia 6
07/09/2019

Charm - Australia 5

Leaving Cairns in the afternoon, we made it to Lizard Island the next afternoon and headed straight to the beach.The kids suggested a picnic and we found an ideal spot with picnic tables and shade and the perfect branches to hang hammocks and swinging chairs.That evening we joined Atla’s crew of Peter and Eva aboard Alora, with Steve, Linda, and Linny for drinks and a game of Empire.They are new boats to this year’s World ARC rally, joining after time off from doing the first half in a previous year.The World ARC offers the option to drop out in Australia and then resume in a future year.This is a great option for those with the time to explore all of these beautiful places in more depth.The next day, we packed all our hydrapaks and set out for a hike up to Cook’s Lookout, the high point. read more...


Charm - Australia 5
Charm - Australia 5
07/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 234 September 6, 2019

We loaded up the hiredcar with snacks, water, Lipton iced tea, clothes, hats, sunscreen, band aids, music for cruising to, cameras, and a sketchy little map, and off we went (after eating a hot pie from the shop where we bought ice for the cooler!) First stop....Litchfield Park...Florence falls and Buley rock holes. Absolutely stunning! We did not expect fantastic waterfalls now well into the dry season, and we were pleasantly surprised by tons of cascading water! The walkways were amazing! Flat rock set in concrete...you could have walked in bare feet the entire”hike” it was soooo smooth and lovely. Both Captain and I having little open “owwwies” decided being in bacteria laden water might not be a good idea, refrained from swimming, but enjoyed the peaceful vistas of the falls, and the. read more...


Sweet Dream - Day 234 September 6, 2019
Sweet Dream - Day 234 September 6, 2019
07/09/2019

Sweet Dream - Day 233 September 5, 2019

The crocodile cruise in the morning, fellowship with Eva from Atla in the afternoon. Sigh....I just met Eva. I just spent one evening and one afternoon with her. She is moving on to other endeavours of serious artistic nature, and I think...oh what I crazy life we live...I wish I had more time with Eva, she is an AMAZING human being! In the evening we had welcome drinks at Tipperary Waters Marina, good fellowship all around.image1.. read more...



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