2 October 2010
The seas were monstrous today, between 5 and 6 metres, the wind more squally, with frequent gusts of thirty knots but at least the rains are less. Thirty knots I can cope with, forty knots and I am scared. Rod Heikell says 'with days of solid torrential rain along with the almost continual cloud cover, the effects on morale of sailing in the ITCZ zone should not be underestimated'. Our morale, like the seas is running high. We know Voyageur will get us to Mauritius and beyond but we must not make the foolish mistake we made yesterday of poling out in heavy seas. David and I cannot leave the helm. We have to keep constant watch ready to adjust the auto pilot according to the direction of the waves. It is wearisome. We bounce around all over the place. The tea and coffee cup can only be half filled. Lunch and dinner is served from dog bowls. It looks like a dog's dinner too but it is hot and it is appetising. The poor teddies and Max, my Gibraltar Barbary ape, are suffering from mal de mer. But every day we are nearer our destination and have now covered 1000nm. There are four key elements when sailing in the conditions that we have found ourselves in that can enhance the quality of life on board. To be able to stay dry and hence warm, to be fed and to get sufficient rest. We are lucky that we have been able to tick all the boxes. If there has been one single thing that has made a huge difference to our comfort on board during this trip it has been the full cockpit screen. It is the first time we have ever had cause to use it on a sea passage. Reaching right down to the cockpit sole it has kept the worst of the seas out. So we have kept dry, warm and out of the wind. Up until now the days and even more so the nights have been surprisingly chilly. I am very fortunate indeed that I have long since been cured of sea sickness and so can cook in almost any conditions. We manage just to get enough sleep during the day in the cockpit and nights in the sea berth below. I pad it with a duvet for extra protection and comfort. So life on board is as tolerable as it can be all things considered. We now realise how different each of the three ocean crossings has been. Of the three this one has presented the greatest challenge to us and I can categorically say that it is the one ocean that I have no intention of crossing ever again....
Tonight the sun, yes the sun, shines straight out of the west. Will we see our first sunset? I very much doubt it. The all too familiar thick bank of cloud is already forming on the horizon ahead. But at least we have glimpsed it.
Susan Mackay