Cleone - in Fiji - Part 1, Savusavu

We've just left Savusavu, bound for the island of Makogai.

 

Before departing from Tonga, we had to complete a pre-arrival form for Fiji.  There was a mass of detail required, and ominous stipulations promising fines and prison sentences if commas were out of place, let alone real errors of fact or intentions.  Come the dawn of the day of our arrival, and Tom arrived in his aluminium dinghy complete with powerful outboard and a broad welcoming smile, which we soon discovered is the hall-mark of all Fijians.  No room on the Coprashed moorings, no problems, use one of the very convenient Waitui moorings, not far from our anchorage and so handy for the jetty that we have not needed to use our outboard.  We moored then waited paitiently, occupying ourselves by having breakfast, admiring the stunning view and tidying up Cleone and ourselves.  Soon a battery of officials arrived, with bulging briefcases, hand-held radios, forms and stamps.  But we need not have worried.  They were charming, welcoming, helpful and friendly, and very sooon we had completed, signed and stamped the dozen or so pieces of paper containing all the details of Cleone and ourselves that can be readily found in the ship's papers or our passports.  We had a small handfull of Fijian dollars to pay, for the health inspection and disposal of our rubbish, which needed to go into quarantine and be incinerated.  Since we had not yet been allowed ashore, we could not pay these bills, but of course there was no problem with this, and down came our yellow 'Q' flag and off we went to explore Savusavu.

 

Many of our World ARC friends were already here.  Norfy and Will went off to join a group of them in the Coprashed (the home of the Savusau Yacht Club), the focus for yachts and yachtsmen in Savusavu.  The Skipper went to arrange some diving, and he and Elizabeth joined Paul and Kuko from Taluah Ruby for a trip out to the un-lit lighthouse at the entrance to the bay, and a good dive amoungs the tropical fish and corals that abound there.  Norfy and Will were still enjoying sharing the company and the thirsts of their friends and did not notice the rain that began towards the end of the afternoon.  But soon it was coming down like stair-rods, and it kept it up for a couple of hours or so.  The diving party were indifferent - we were wet already and wearing wetsuits and swimming gear.  But when we got back to Cleone, Norfy's cabin and bedding were soaked, as was everthing on the table in the saloon.  And it was still raining.

 

But this was Fiji.  Who cared?  We closed the hatches and went off for drinks in the Yacht Club and an excellent curry at a little local restaurant, courtesy of Stuart from Jus'doit.  Norfy looked slightly purturbed when the news about his bedding was broken.  So, discretion being the better part of vaour, a room at the yacht club was quickly arranged for him.  He slept well.  By the end of the next afternoon, Cleone, the charts, the diving kit and the all-important bedding were all dry again.  Meanwhile, the second day was spent looking round Savusavu, a bit of light shopping, a long walk up to the hospital for the Skipper to pay the Health Inspection bill, a long walk to the thermal springs for Will and a tour round the island with the Jus'doits for Norfy.

 

Yesterday both the Norfy and the Skipper managed to get away in the car with Jus'doits for a long, bumpy and fruitless search for a recommended restaurant on the southeast coast of Vanua Levu.  We penetrated deep into and through the jungle, and directed by many cheerful waves from the many Fijians along the route.  Eventually we arrived at Hannibal's Resort and Restaurant, clearly signposted off to the right.along an even more rutted track than the one we had been travelling along.  It was spookily quiet.  Then a cheerful American guy appeared.  The resauant was closed, we were only the second group in 10 years who had ever called in to get a meal, and currently they had nobody staying at the resort.  Oh, and the place had just been sold.  Well, this probably explained the filthy cushions and general air of neglect and decay.  But it was a sad story we learned over our two, thankfully ice-cold, beers.  The American had been there for 10 years, and his brother was the cook.  At one point they had employed 22 people, looking after the chalets and providing diving, kyaking, walking and riding for their guests.  But the coups in Suva had ripped the bottom out of the tourist market, which they said now focused only on Viti Lavu, and their dream had spiralled downhill.  They were anxious to leave and start a new enterprise somewhere near Suva, organising fishing trips and so on for the tourists there.  It could be - and maybe once was - an idyllic spot for a quiet or active holiday, but it in its present state, arriving there would be a nasty shock for anyone hoping to stay!

 

We managed to find a wayside stall on the way home, where two deligtful Fijian ladies had set up a small stall selling snacks.  The curried pankakes and custard tarts were delicious, and we wolfed them down - it was nearly four in the afternoon and we'd had nothing since breakfast.  Despite that we were in the middle of the jungle and the road was appalling, local busses past frequently, and there were many school-children making their way home in their brightly coloured and spotless school uniforms.  Everyone we met was delighted to see us, greeted us cheerfully and all wanted to stop and chat.  They are very proud of their British traditions here, proud that the Queen's head is on their coinage, and proud that over 7000 Fijians are serving in the British Army.  Being here is a real joy.

 

Magokai is where their used to be a leper colony.  It will be an interesting visit; I will let you know how it goes.