Smoke and Roses - East Meets West

February 5 – 10

Ascension Island

This tiny volcanic mass hidden in the vast Atlantic brings us to a simpler time with unique natural wonders and a quaint wholesome lifestyle. During our five day stay on Ascension Island we got to experience one of natures’ natural wonders, visit the residential and military fire stations, hike the amazing Green Mountain, do some touring and snorkeling as well as work on our boats. Kitty at the port office helped us with immigration, customs, fuel orders, rental vehicles, tours and repair services. A short walk up the hill was the main square in the heart of Georgetown, there was a chandlery and the Saints Club with food and drink. They made a tuna noodle pasta bake just for our group. Here we said goodbye to the crew of “Pinta” who was sailing on to Cape Verde. That evening “Cayuse” hosted dinner and everyone brought appetizers. It was a nice party but I was still tired from the passage.

The next day we visited the Fire and Sea Rescue station that covers the residential part of the island. The chief, Richie, was very friendly. They gave us T-shirts, explained what to do on island and encouraged us to make an appointment with Chief Anderson at the Wolf Creek US Base Fire Station. Most of their calls are sea rescue and their rib can only go 16 miles offshore. Later in the week we visited the military Fire Station and were given a tour in one of the chief’s vehicles. Several people mentioned the fire department was hiring. They said some people drive 100 mph on the roads but the biggest hazard was goats and donkeys, but really it is chlorine. That evening we celebrated Matt’s birthday at the Air Base. There was a large public facility with a full bar, fast food type restaurant, outdoor pavilion/gazebo and like most places we went there was only a few other people there.

The next day I went with the Gobow group on an island tour while Dan stayed on the boat to work on the heads. The first stop was Mars Bay to see the Sooty Terns breeding area. There were thousands of birds, locally known as wide awakes because of their loud call. Next were the endemic plant greenhouses in what was the marine barracks, on Green Mountain. The ride up the mountain was beautiful. Several native plants unique to Ascension are extinct or greatly reduced because they cannot compete with introduced plant species. The Bonetta Cemetery at Comfortless Bay was next. This most unique cemetery was in a rock valley in a scenic bay. The deceased sailors were yellow fever victims from the HMS Bonetta, Black Jack and HMS Archer. The last stop was Fort Bedford on Cross Hill above Georgetown with great views of the town, Long Beach and Clarence Bay anchorage. There were hood guns which provided protection to the island during World War II.

In the afternoon I put Dan up the mast to sort out the spinnaker pulley and halyard issues. That evening our group went on a tour to watch a green turtle lay a clutch of eggs. The turtle laboriously excavated a large nest pit in the sand. The “egg chamber” where 120 to 150 eggs are laid is delicately hollowed out with the turtle’s flippers. The green turtle makes an amazing journey every 3 to 4 years back to Ascension from their feeding grounds off the coast of South America to breed and nest.

One of the hikes we did was called Monkey Rock Cemetery. It started at what was once the island hospital and went on a path through the woods to a cemetery. Another hike was Elliott’s Pass, a walk around the top of Green Mountain with 360 degree views of the island. The pass was opened as a lookout for the Marines Mountain Detachment. This unique path through dense ferns and hanging vines had several short tunnels. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day so our views were obscured in the mist. It was a beautiful mountain walk with lots of rainforest like foliage and flowers, including the Ascension Lily.

One of our last days on the island we walked through Fort Thornton just north of the pier head with great views and Fort Hayes to the south as well as the Georgetown Museum. We also snorkeled Comfortless Bay with parts of a wreck and some eels. That evening Smoke and Rose hosted a fish dinner. We had caught mahi, yellowtail and a jack, so we had enough fish for all 16 of us. We made a fish bake with garlic, sour cream and parmesan, grilled fish with peppers and onion in a ginger soy and lime marinade and fried fish it all turned out well.

As “Smoke and Roses” was anchored closer to shore, we could see turtles leave the beach in the early mornings after nesting. On the morning of departure we went ashore and watched a turtle crawl out of her nest pit and make her way back to the sea. She would take a few steps then put her head down and rest.

Ascension Island has a unique land crab that makes an incredible journey each year from the mountain to the coast to spawn. I would have like to stay at least one more day on Ascension to see the crabs and other parts of the island but the fleet was ready to go. With its assemblage of Western and Eastern Atlantic flora, fauna and marine life, Ascension is a unique place and I am very pleased to have had the opportunity to visit.

Agnes Long