Cape Verde was a whirlwind, a fantastic, colourful, lively, and heartwarming few days. Mindelo, an unexpectedly pretty city, with some beautifully maintained old colonial buildings took us by surprise. It was edgy, artsy and relaxed. A sort of gritty Afro Caribbean vibe. Wolf and I took a walk around the first day and were struck by the warmth and friendliness of the people. Everyone had time for us. Morabeza, the essence of Cabo Verde culture. The notion that everyone is welcome. We were not hounded by people looking for money or trying to sell us something, and despite the obvious poverty all around us people were smiling. Those great broad smiles that reveal the beauty in a heart.
One of my most favourite parts of our stay in the Cabo Verde’s was the gathering by drum. We heard them practicing the night we arrived, that rhythmic African beat. I just love it. It soothes and energises at the same time. Is there a better way to summon people to a party than with the beat of a drum do you think? If there is, I can’t think of one. It delights me. As you follow the sound, and see others doing the same you can’t help but smile and start to groove to the beat. At least I can’t. By the time you reach the drums your whole body has relaxed and you are ready to party!!
When we thought about setting sail and exploring the world with our babies, one of the things I most looked forward to were the local and traditional celebrations of other cultures. In particular the costumes and dancing. I love to dance, as does Wolf, we met dancing the night away in an Irish bar in Hamburg as it happens. Our daughter Cúisle has inherited the same love, and has such a joix de vive, that she will dance anywhere. As soon as she hears music she can’t help but move to it. I love to watch her carefree spirit when we come across a busker on the street and she just stops to appreciate the music and dance. So as I dreamt about what lay ahead, I imagined watching her little eyes nearly pop out of her head as she experienced different traditions and celebrations from around the globe.
We had our first taste of that in the Cabo Verde islands and oh how it made my heart sing. Watching her little face enthralled by the Carnival dancers was the gift that just keeps giving, it now being freeze framed in my mind. Seeing little Óisin in full swing beside her grooving to the beat was just the icing on the cake. If there are ever times when you question the decision to move your life on to a small boat, (and believe me there are always times), watching your children fully appreciate and explore another culture affirms the decision thousand fold. Marina Mindelo treated us to a fabulous show for the Welcome Drinks, with local music, dancing, costumes and drum beats, repeated and bettered at the prize giving.
The fact that the whole marina was full almost completely with ARC boats made the entire experience feel really rather intimate despite there being 100 boats and probably 600 or so people. Everyone you met on the pontoon or in the floating bar had just sailed down, like you, from Las Palmas. One big happy family you might say. The staff in the floating bar deserve a particular mention. They were living breathing embodiments of Morabeza. There was only a handful of them, working round the clock (I don’t think I ever passed when the bar was closed) serving good food and drinks with a smile from early in the morning until late into the night.
A particular highlight of the stay for me was greeting the other family boats as they arrived, the friends we had made in Las Palmas on the family pontoon. The first two days of the sail down had been tough for the whole fleet, but I think it’s extra tough when you have small kids on board. We knew exactly what the others had been through and the big hugs when we met up again were so warm and genuine it just underlined the closeness of the friendships we have already made on this ARC plus adventure.
We were lucky to have some time in the Cabo Verde islands not just to get some jobs done on the boat, but to also explore a little and soak up the atmosphere. We spent a day on the beach with some new families getting to know each other better. Took a tour of the island with Carlos who was just one of the nicest people you could ever meet. He spoke so passionately and informatively about the islands and exuded the essence of Morabeza, we could have spent the whole day exploring with him. We also said goodbye to Mike, our crew and honorary family member who sailed down from Las Palmas with us, and welcomed Heiko, Wolf’s brother who will join us on the second leg over to St. Lucia.
It was a wonderful few days, topped off with a trip to the local fruit and vegetable market to stock up for the crossing. An experience second only to the gathering of the drum.
So now it’s time to set sail again, we say a fond farewell and a big thank you to everyone in Marina Mindelo and of course to the yellow shirts on the ground who will be very glad to see us go I’m sure so they can get some well deserved rest!
That’s the Saoirse crew out until the next time.
Stay tuned.
By Aisling Fenix
image1