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Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action



Yesterday, there was a boat approaching our anchorage in distress on the VHF radio. It was a 35 foot Catalina, a boat designed for coastal day sailing and often maligned as a blue water boat. They had left Panama 38 days ago with a Captain and two crew. Fifteen days into the journey, the starboard inner shroud (holds up the mast) parted. There are additional shrouds that secure the mast so the rig did not fall down, but this is a perilous situation for a boat 1,000 miles from land and 2,000 miles from their destination. The crew used lines to secure the broken shroud and kept sailing towards the Marquesas with only a jib. The trip became a blur. The boat traveled at 4 knots and sometimes slower. The crew started forgetting the date and long ago ran out of their favorite provisions. Spirits stayed strong among the three men that had only met a week before setting sail. Then with only two days left to arrive in Hiva Oa, Marquesas, the port shroud failed. Again, a repair was fashioned before the mast came crashing down. The crew contacted the French Polynesian Coast Guard to inform the rescue services of their predicament and plan. However, this is not the Long Island Sound. While there was onshore coast guard presence, one of the monitors was a man in a building 1,000 miles away in Tahiti. When they got close to Hiva Oa, I launched One Fish to greet them and show them their way into the harbor. I did not help but it was a simple act of sailing fellowship. They were effusive with their thank you's. I was the first new face in over a month. They asked a few questions and I responded on the radio. The emergency services guy 1,000 miles away then radio'd to tell me I was in violation of international law and faced possible fines for speaking on the emergency channel. I stopped speaking on the radio and shouted over to the boat. I was inspired to help by the actions of another catamaran from the same harbor.



The previous night a UK flagged catamaran was on the radio having a fit. Here are the facts that I pieced together leading to their radio outburst. At dusk a rally boat came into the crowded inner harbor, which is full of bow anchors, stern anchors and marker buoys for both anchors. It is a complex crowded mess of boats and lines. The new boat had a tough time anchoring and in the process wrapped a line around their rudder and prop. They lost control of their boat and slowly drifted into the UK cat. It was cocktail hour and the Brits were enjoying plenty of libations. They were rightfully shocked and annoyed by this contact. It is very disturbing and distressing to have a large object bump into one's home. However, the UK cat's next steps caused them to fall out of my favor. They got on the radio and yelled at rally control. Telling rally control that the offending skipper was incompetent. Basically they just vented with no purpose. Rally control asked several times what assistance was required and the only response from the UK cat was more complaining. Plenty of rally boats had launched their dinghy's and were helping solve the problem. The UK cat was just creating a bunch of useless noise on the radio. They then stated that ALL rally boats were not good enough sailors to be allowed to anchor in this harbor. Rally boats were in his mind incompetent. Every captain has a bad day and needs a hand but this UK cat powered by booze had determined that he was better than all of us. Instead of yelling at him on the radio I decided to make a deposit in the Karma bank the next time I had a chance.



Enough harbor gossip. We left soon after the excitement and sailed overnight with just Gail and I. Our watch schedule was 4 hours Jason then 2 hours Gail. During the middle of my second watch I shouted out rain and Gail came on deck. I love the fact she is always willing to help. I was trying to install the enclosure and was thankful for the second set of hands. The breeze was freshening with the arrival of the rain squall. Gail also helped me switch the screecher for a single-reefed genoa. This squall was the first one to catch us after 2 hours of dodging squalls on the radar. I jibed, slowed the boat and changed course to avoid half a dozen other rain cells. This cell was too big to avoid. The rain came in buckets and in minutes our 5 gallon rain capture jug was full. The boom was acting like a downspout sending a torrent towards the base of the mast. After 30 minutes we sailed out of the cell. A few hours later and we sailed by Ua Pou island. It has a dramatic profile as if it was drawn by a cartoonist for the home of an evil sorcerer. The pointy spires were made more dramatic by the early morning light obscuring the colors. We sailed on to Nuku Hiva and found a perfect bay.



Daniel's Bay has pond-like flat waters and many places to anchor. I am ok with the bugs as a cost for calm waters. The World ARC has certain rendezvous harbors. They are chosen to optimize access to resources (laundry, food, wifi, fuel and boat parts). My advice is to minimize your time at these harbors as the romance of these harbors has been overtaken by commerce. Daniel's Bay also offers a fantastic hike. One day I was paddle-boarding the harbor and a younger French couple waved hello. I paddled closer by to say Bonjour. As I approached, I realized he was in his birthday suit. We continued to chat and I learned they had sailed from Paris. Later in the day he came by Two Fish in his dinghy and caught me in my birthday suit as I was exiting the shower. It was decided, after I put on clothes, that we would hike the waterfall (cascade in French) together the next day. It was a memorable hike with dramatic scenery in a remote area. The waterfall is one of the highest in the world. The bay also has many types of rays which I have enjoyed watching while paddle-boarding. It is rumored to be a shark nursery and has thus curtailed my swimming activities.



Today was a work day on Two Fish. We changed 7 fuel filters (twin racors on port and starboard, 1 secondary on each engine, 1 racor for the genset). We also changed 4 filters for the water marker (25 micron, 5 micron, charcoal and fresh water flush filter). Our water is tasting great, especially since the new membrane. I also fixed the annoying fuel gauge on port only to have starboard act up in the afternoon. Must figure out a better way to secure spade electrical connectors that are shaken by the engine. The house batteries also got topped up with more water. We have ordered new engine starter batteries from a shop in Tahiti. I am a huge fan of preventive maintenance. Duct tape solutions just annoy me since you will only have to fix it again soon.



Our cockpit has a full enclosure which we have sung the praises of many times. Great in cold weather, rainy weather and breezy weather. We also own a replica of the enclosure made of only textaline. It makes our cockpit into a screened porch. After 2.5 years we finally installed the alternate enclosure. It is great for hot buggy days. We have guests for drinks tonight and will keep the enclosure installed for the buggy cocktail hours.



In one week we will leave the Marquesas. I hope we get a chance to buy a tapas, a local type of art. We will sail with friends from the yacht club to the Tuomotos. The rally has no set schedule so we can choose any of the 78 atolls. I will skip that atolls that are glowing with radiation from French nuclear tests. I state this with disdain but America has also ruined its share of South Pacific Islands. We have a Tuomotos plan but you will have to wait to see where we go on the tracker. By the end of April we should reach Tahiti. It will be our first Marina since the Caribbean. The boat will enjoy a thorough wash, the sails a bit of attention from the sailmaker, the batteries a trickle charge and Gail hop on/hop off access. Tahiti is halfway by days and 2/3rds by miles of our trip.



Very happy to be here. Hope your day is just as nice.



Photos are Gail in front of waterfall and Two Fish in an empty Daniel's bay



Jason

www.twofishcat.com







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