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Paw Paw - Log Day 199: Sharing Their Culture



There is so much to tell you about today, but we hope this update will give you a sense of the most fascinating cultural experience we've had since our trip up the Chagres River to the Embera Indian Village in Panama. We spent the day at the Samoa Cultural Village, but not before we enjoyed a light breakfast at the Bay Walk Café, a walk along the promenade and a visit to the Catholic Cathedral, where the carved wood ceiling, the paintings and the stain glass windows rivalled anything we have seen to date. Simply spectacular!

Our day at the cultural village started off with us weaving our plates on which our lunch would be served later, as well as weaving some headbands. We were then welcomed by our host and provided some history of the country, but our insight into the culture or Fa's Samoa, the Samoan Way, grew with each fale (house) we visited. Samoa has managed to hold onto its ancient daily practices, passed down through the generations and a lifestyle enjoyed still to this day.

The entire culture revolves around the family unit, supported by a firm belief in a higher universal being, which later translated to Christianity when the missionaries arrived, where each village is comprised of a single extended family ie grandparents, parents, children, aunts, uncles, cousins, etc, headed by the chiefs, who can be male or female, and where everyone in the village has a specific purpose and a role to fulfill for the good of the whole.

Our first fale was the "kitchen", where the men prepare the above ground, open fire using coconut husks and all the dried banana leaves, palm leaves, used plates, etc to heat the volcanic rocks. Due to the physical nature of this activity the men prepare all the meals for the village. Today they cooked breadfruit, taro, which is a root vegetable, spinach in coconut cream and tuna wrapped in banana leaves. The food is layered between the hot volcanic rocks and lef t to cook for approximately 45 minutes.

While we waited on lunch we received a demonstration on how a coconut husk is removed using a traditional tool and then how the coconut cream is extracted from the flesh using something that resembled a bird's nest, made from the dried bark of a banana tree and, incidentally, is also used as a body lofa. The extraction of coconut oil was also referenced. From there we were treated to traditional dancing and singing which was very different to what we had seen in French Polynesia. The women were very graceful and the men more physical in their dance.

While it's difficult to choose a highlight of the day, the ava was very special. It is primarily a welcoming ceremony, where a drink is prepared using the root of a pepper plant, but can only be made by the daughter of a Head Chief, who, in our western culture, is the equivalent of a Princess. The drink is then served to the guests. The symbolism behind a Princess preparing it and everyone sitting cross-legged on the ground is to reflect that we are all created equal.

After lunch we entered the fale of the wood carvers and then onto the tattoo artist. The interesting fact is that these skills are passed down through a bloodline and no one outside of that bloodline can practice the specific art. Based on the family name, everyone knows who the tattoo artist is within Samoa. Tatau is the local name for tattoo and Samoa is one of the few places in the world where the art is practised in the traditional way by tufuga ta tatau, the master tattooists, using handmade tools of bone, tusks, turtle shell and wood. Also, the pe'a, the mark of Samoa, is given to men who choose to have it and begins at the waist, covering every bit of skin down to the knees, with intricate, unique designs chosen by the master tattooist. It is considered a very painful rite of passage for titled and untitled men alike.

Our final fale demonstrated the art o f siapo (tapa). We literally watched the bark of a branch be transformed into a cloth and then painted with a design chosen by the artist. The lavalava (serongs) worn on formal occasions are made in this way.

It was a day packed full of information and new experiences that has given us an incredible appreciation for this wonderful nation and one we are so glad we decided not to bypass during our circumnavigation. The surprising fact, the whole experience didn't cost us a penny. Yes, it was free, including the lunch. The people were just happy to share their culture with us. How refreshing!

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