Daily Logs

Paw Paw - Log Day 92: Heading for Pastures New

This morning we were up early to weigh anchor and set sail for Rangiroa, Tuamotos in the company of Barbara Jean and Belafonte who set sail at roughly the same time, but are heading for Fakarava, Tuamotos.We were the last of the WARC fleet to say goodbye to the beautiful islands of the Marquesas.It didn't take long for us to settle back into our sailing / watch routine and Roy enjoyed chattng on the SSB radio and catching up on the days sailing with the other yachts this evening while Elaine slept soundly.Tonight we sail under the brilliance of a moonless clear night sky heading for pastures new!. read more...

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 36. Nuku Hiva. 08.52.87S 140.05.80W

Wednesday, 6 April.We motored back to Taiohae after an early lunch and were lucky to find no one else at the fuel barge.There was Plenty of room to sort out the stern to anchoring (Med style) and with a fuel pipe long enough to reach both fillers easily. We had purchased a duty fee permit and so filled the tanks to the brim at duty free prices.Then it was Internet and chatting to the crews of the few WARC boats not yet on their way to the Tuamotu islands, including Nina, Paw Paw and Aliena.Plus, of course, making sure the boat was ready to receive tomorrow's guests.Thursday was shopping for the next three weeks.The supermarkets were good for frozen meat, long life milk, bread and eggs etc and we bought aubergines and pac choi for vegetables from the local market stalls.No potatoes, sweet. read more...

Aliena - Domingo 10 Abril 2016

3 dia navegacion Marquesas a TuomotusLos atolones son las islas geologicamente mas viejas del Pacifico. Em su dia fueron islas volcanicas, como ahora las Marquesas, a las que les creció un anillo de coral alrededor a la vez que la montanya se hundía para dejar la laguna interior. Es un viaje pesado a pesar de ser la ruta cercana y con buenas condiciones. De momento a vela a buena marcha aunque con rizos a ratos para ajustarnos a la marcha de Giampi, al que no perdemos de vista,y entrar juntos al atolon Kauehi, al que de momento nos faltan 183nm y de no estar en la entrada manyana sobre las 14 horas, cambiara la marea ytendremos que poner proa a Fakarava.Carmen. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 91: Saving the Best for Last

Last night, as the katabatic winds swept down the mountains and over our anchorage,they carried with them the beautiful sounds of Maquesan singing from ashore, allowing us to drift off to sleep as if in a magical place.Today it was another early start in order to collect our hired car to do some sight-seeing. We started our tour heading east to the paepae called Koueve which is Taiihae's best preserved tohua. After the rains from the night before the trail leading to the archaeological site was rather muddy. We managed to keep our footing until the last 10 ft on the homeward stretch which Roy ceremoniously completed on his rear-end, fortunately, without injury. Next we headed towards Anaho, passing through the beautiful and most ferttle valley of Nuku Hiva, evident by the numerous. read more...

Luna Quest - Sunday, 10th April, 2016

Position: 14.04N 60.57WRodney Bay St Lucia Distance run to Marigot Bay: 60 milesOn April 2nd we set sail at the crack of dawn for Marigot Bay in St Lucia, the last official rendezvous before Rodney Bay in St Lucia, where we started on January 10th, 2015. The idea of getting together in Marigot Bay was to organise a sail parade for April 9th with all our decorative international code flags up via Castries to Rodney Bay. The fleet of 14 boats was led by Luna Quest, the smallest boat, in reverse order of size. The last boat was a 64-ft Amel, owned by Germans, but flying the red ensign.Once in Rodney Bay at around noon, a reception had been organised on the pontoon with live percussion music, where copiousamounts of rhum were freely dispensed with plenty of nibbles. A prize-giving dinner was. read more...

Lydia - Lydia's Blog 4-8 April 2016

Tuesday 4 April 16Another perfect day with the wind on our beam, gentle seas with a 10 knot ESE breeze wafting us to our destination on a course of 220 degrees. At 8.30 we furled the yankee and staysail and hoisted the big Crusing Shute which immediately increased our speed by over a knot. In mid morning we were called up by a friendly Chinese cargo ship (S.S. Hangjing Express) who passed some 8 miles astern and was just surprised to see a little yacht so far from home.Later we came across a Tuna boat but did not pass close enough to disturb his fishing. At noon our position was Lat 20'S Long 142d 20'W with a day's run of only 126 miles owing to light winds earlier. Before sunset at 17.30 we took down the Cruising shute and unfurled the yankee and staysail ready for night sailing. Once. read more...

Aliena - Sabado 9 de abril 2016

2 dia navegacion Marquesas a ToamotusSalimos ayer a las 11h. de Bahia Taiahoe y le decimos adios a Nuku Hiva y Marquesas. Soy muy afortunada de haberlas conocido en este momento a punto de ser declaradas Patrimonio de la Unesco y antes de llenarse de hoteles y restaurantes para el "turismo ecologico". Se nos rompe en el camino el generador con lo que no podemos hacer agua. NOs toca ducha de agua salada. Viento y mar buenos y estamos en contacto con Giampi, tratando de ajustar la velocidad para la entrada al atolon Kauehi pasado manyana al medio dia. Hemos recorrido 148nm y nos quedan 356nm.Carmen. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 90: Oh, For the Simple Life

Today was a day for catching up on all our internet activities - Uploading a new article and our latest photographs to our website, sorting out our taxes, updating our banking, ensuring our medical coverage has been renewedas expected, catching up on Facebook,WhatsApp,Messenger, Email, - Oh for the simple life! It is astonishing just how reliant we have become on our electronic world. Sitting in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, in one of the more isolated communities of the world, we were surrounded by cruisers and locals alike, all glued to our devices as if our lives depended on them.In reality they do unfortunately.Having a simple thing like a decent wifi connection is such a luxury and a lifesaver in this nautical world we occupy and is always a blessing when we can reconnect with. read more...

Starblazer - 08/04/2016 - Highs and Lows!

The Tobago Cays were lovely and far less crowded than on our previous visits in January 2010.We saw quite a few turtles but, disappointingly, they were not in the protected zone.Whether they ate all the grass there or whether there is some other reason, we saw no grass in that area.Perhaps anchors are not the major culprit they are thought to be.On Baradel Island itself we spotted a couple of iguanas but not the very big one we saw last time.We went to explore Petit Bateau Island as we could see a structure from the boat.There was a covered area with BBQ paraphernalia, used by the boat boys for beach BBQs.On the northern side of the island, facing the narrow passage between Petit Bateau and Petit Rameau we found a couple of stalls selling BBQ Lobster or fish dinners so placed an order. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 89: Tattoo Time

This morning we left the beautiful Baie de Taioa for the main anchorage on Huku Hiva,Baie de Taiohae and we were pleasantly surprised to see some WARC yachts still around. Once we were settled, it was off to shore to drop off laundry, garbage, our propane gas bottle for refilling, book a car for our explorations on Saturday and make an appointment for our tattoos. After enjoyong a local lunch, it was tattoo time. However, Roy still had no idea what he wanted.Then a moment of brilliance - While drinking one of the local beers, Hinano, it hit him - He decided to have a tattoo of the beer can.Elaine, on the otherhand created a design that encapsulated some of wonderful memories experienced during this sailing adventure thus far - A seahorse she saw on her very first dive in Bonaire and. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 88: The "Garden of Eden"

After a very peaceful night sleep without any interruptions, we both woke up feeling refreshed and ready to face our 5 hour hike to the 3rd tallest waterfall in the world, but not before waving off Wishanger II,Nina and Do Over. With our picnic lunch packed we set off in the dinghy for our short trip up the river.En route we stopped by Alcedo of Ryme for a chat, before they too set sail for pastures new. Having secured the dinghy to a tree alongside the river bank,we started the hike through what felt like a walk in the "Garden of Eden". The vegetation, flowers,fruit trees,rivers, mountain streams and finally the waterfall was just spectacular. We enjoyed our picnic lunch beside a small brook on our way back, following which we stopped by the home of the family who had offered us lunch. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 87: Goodbyes and Hellos

After a rather rough night due to a really heavy swell running straight into our anchorage in Baie d' Hakahau,on the island of Ua Poo, coupled with gusty winds,and having saidour goodbyes to Cattiva (Maria and Maurice) the previous night, we were up early and headed for Baie de Taioa on the island of Nuku Hiva. We had a lovely beam reach sail over and arrived just after lunch time.After stopping by Wishanger II (Claudine,Brian,Ben and Sam) and Nina (Lynda, Steve and the friends, Karen and Peter) to say hello,since we hadn't seen them since leaving Hiva Oa, it was back to Paw Paw for an well deserved afternoon nap.We also enjoyed a surprise "dinghy drive-by" visit from Do Over (Paula, Dan, Oriana and Ryan) after their hike to the waterfall, having previously said goodbye to them in. read more...

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 35. Nuka Hiva. 08.55.09S 140.05.96W

Thursday, 31 March.A plan was made last night for a party of walkers, older ones that is, to walk to the local waterfall, except for Jane and the Skipper's wife, who elected to do the shorter walk to the Polynesian ruins above the village while also bird watching and visiting the village shop where Jane bought a pair of jellies.A lovely time was had by all including the mosquitoes, who were out in force at the ruins. Good anti mosquito strategies are essential in this part of the world.The afternoon's entertainment was trying to get Carango's outboard motor to work, with help of Ian from Zoom. Followed by swimming with the Manta Rays, which were doing summersaults in the water all around the boats and feeding on the surface plankton.Finding yourself face to face with a huge ray that has. read more...

Starblazer - Ooohhh Deeaarr

We've just had the biggest engine fault so far.An occasional cough (fuel?), a bit of a rattle (tappets?) followed by continuous rattling of a can 1/2 full of nuts and bolts. I stopped the engine.Removal of a valve gear cover showed one broken spring and no sign of its valve shaft.Looks like the valve is in the cylinder, which probably does not have enough room for the piston as well.We were headed for Marigot Bay on St Lucia for a rally dinner tomorrow (Thursday) and a Parade of Sail to Rodney Bay on Saturday.We are now heading directly to Rodney Bay to anchor for the night and hope that the Marina will help us in tomorrow.We will get to tomorrow's dinner by car and work on the engine on the following days.Hopefully the parts can be flown in quickly.Allegro have been standing by to help,. read more...

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 34. Uka Huka. 08.55.69S 139.32.06W

Tuesday, 29 March.An early start for going north and a cracking good sail with the the apparent wind just forward of the beam.Uka Huka is approx 25 miles east of Nuka Hiva and very different to the other Islands.It is still high in parts and rugged, but almost stripped of trees because of the massive horse and goat populations, which have eaten most of the vegetation, leaving only what we presumed to be some sort of grass.Sadly, we did not chose the best anchorage for the prevailing conditions.The bay was attractive enough and we were looking forward to exploring the village and seeing if we could get to a tropical garden famous for plants, trees and birds, but there was so much swell in the bay, landing safely in the dingy was not possible.To cap it all, Carango's outboard stopped. read more...

Solo - Ende von Leg 4, free Cruising Period Tuamotos

Wir sind in Rekordzeit – 19 Tage – von den Galapagos-Inseln in Hiva Oa angekommen. Das Segeln zu zweit war ein Vergnügen, allerdingswar ich nach 2 Wochen zweitweise so übermüdet, dass ich tagsüber Sandra  - meine Ehefrau und „Kopilotin“ immer nach japanischen Touristen gefragt habe, die an Bord seien. Ich konnte  Traum und Wirklichkeit über Stunden nicht auseinanderhalten. Wir musstenteilweise über Nacht beide vollständig wach  bleiben, um ständig den Autopiloten zu bedienen und andere Segel zu setzen. Das hat unsere Leistungsfähigkeit nach zwei Wochen dermaßen herabgesetzt, dass wir teilweise das Vorsegel eingerollt haben, nur unter Grossegelund Gesan gelaufen sind und einfach nur geschlafen haben, um wieder fitt zu werden. Ansonsten macht man nur gefährliche Fehler, was. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island

Elaine woke just as dawn was breaking to some very strange noises at Paw Paw's stern, only to realise it was Roy lowering the dinghy from the davits. He was heading to the local bakery having had it on good authority that if you didn't get there early enough there would be nothing left by 0600.It was 0500.His eagerness paid off as he returned a short while later laden with all sorts of French pastries and baguettes for both ourselves and Cattiva. Since it was so early,Elaine waited an hour before sneaking over to Cattiva to deposit the treats.They were pleasantly surprised to find breakfast sitting in their cockpit when they surfaced. We then enjoyed a walk on the beach and a tour around the little town with Maria as our guide. The craftsmanship of the stone work and carvings evident on. read more...

Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 28 March - 3 April. The Marquesa Islands

Monday 28 March 16.3am "Call the Hands" and weigh anchor with least possible noise. We waftedalmost silently like a ghost out of the Stephen's Bay, the beautiful littleTahuata anchorageleaving behind the half dozen or so other yachts whose masthead anchorlights looked like so many fireflies dancing across the water as we drewaway setting course for Ua-Pou, the Marquesa island about 75 miles to thenorth west. With only 5-7 knots of an ESE wind and a gentle sea we set fullmain and motorsailed hoping the wind might increase. As luck would have itthe wind remained slight so we continued motorsailing towards ourdestination. At 7.30am the visibility was so good we sighted the spectaclaroutline of Ua-Pou at by then 32 miles distant while still being able to seeTahuata from whence we came and. read more...

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 33. Tahuata. 09.57.66S 139.07.10W

27 March, Easter Sunday.Obviously got the dates wrong on the previous blog, easy to do on Island Time, where days of the week have little meaning to us, but we definitely left Fatu Hiva just after 7.00am on Easter Sunday.Calm, sunny morning with the Island looking just lovely in the early morning sun, so motor on until the wind got up at about 09.00.Then an uneventful sail/motor sail towards Tahuata, passing Paw Paw going in the opposite direction at about the half way mark.We arrived off the Island after an early lunch in a nasty rain squall that blotted out everything, but after thoroughly soaking most of the crew, it cleared before we approached the anchorage in Baie Hanatefau where we found Whishanger and Paradise Found and quite a few non WARC boats.After anchoring (twice because of. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 85: A Manta Ray "Dance" to Celebrate

This morning we arrived bright and early in Baie d' Hakahau on the island of Oa Poo after our overnight sail from Tahuata. It was lovely to be greeted on the radio by the familiar voice of Maurice who provided us with information on the best place to anchor,considering how small this little harbour is. Once settled snugly behind the breakwater, we wasted no time in getting the dinghy in the water and heading over to Cattiva to say hello to our friends.After lots of cheerful hugs and over a wonderful breakfast of freshly baked French pastries from the local bakery, we started the process of catching up on each others news and experiences since saying our goodbyes in Curacao some 18 months earlier. The whole experience was quiet surreal actually,given that so much time had passed and we. read more...

Widago - Next Stop: Rangiroa

Next stop: Rangiroa....We bailed on going to Fakarava, and should arrive in the morning to Rangiroa. After finding out that Fakarava resort was shut down, and services limited (aka no restaurant, but maybe a "snack bar", and unknown internet capacity), we turned right. Also helping was that the wind angle / sea state greatly improved when we came up 30 degrees. We had a couple great days sailing fast with white sails on a beam reach, but seas were festive - no water glasses left on the tables. After a couple days flying Big Blue in 12-15 kts, the wind finally crapped out last night about 10. Been motoring (and making ice) all day. Gorgeous out. Caught & released a pretty good size Marlin this afternoon, followed by brownies and homemade empanadas. Boys declared them top-notch bar. read more...

Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 21-27 March 2016. Isles Marquises.

Monday 21 March 2016.The previous blog was sent shortly after midday on 21 March so this is justto add what happened that evening and night. At sundown we celebratedNigel's birthday with small eats and a specially chilled bottle of MoetChandon champagne. Sailing into the setting sun with the sky and cloudsslowlychanging from bluish white to gold then pink then crimson while drinkingchampagne was a perfect way to celebrate our last evening beforecompleting our crossing of the Pacific. Shortly after an excellent curriedchicken dinner, (one of my favorites), we suddenly noticed the hankeeforesail appeared to have become very loose. Having turned on the spreaderlights and hooked on life line to inspect, we discovered that the tack metalfixing holding the spare forestay on which the hankee. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 84: Reconnecting with Cattiva

After a blustery day yesterday,the clouds parted today and we got to snorkel under sunny skies in crystal clear blue, warm waters. It was a very unusual snorkel in that it was nothing like anything we had seen before.The fish,while plentiful, were not brightly coloured,with the exception of the sergeant majors and some tiny bright blue fish. The rest, including the parrotfish and angelfish were all dark, almost camouflaged against the volcanic rock. Also, the habitat was not a coral reef,but rocks with large coral formations growing on them. The formations looked like giant-sized carnation flowers. Very pretty in its own strange way.Now, however,under a clear, starry moonless sky we sail to Oa Poo, where we willmeet up with our cruising friends Maria and Maurice on Cattiva. So looking. read more...

Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!

We spent two nights on Carriacou.John had offered me dinner ashore however I suggested lunch instead.At the current stage in the moon's cycle it doesn't get up until after midnight and the anchorage was very dark.It was also quite crowded so we had fears of driving the dinghy in circles looking for Starblazer.The village in Tyrrel Bay is very small, with numerous cafe/bars, a few vegetable stalls and a few tiny 'supermarkets' which certainly do not live up to their name!Next time we'll visit Hillsborough, the capital, either anchor off or go by taxi.Our trip to Union Island didn't quite go as planned.We pulled up the anchor, motored out of the bay then sailed just about all the way to Union Island.Clifton, the capital where we needed to clear in, is at the eastern end of the island which. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 83: "Flat as a Pancake"

After a fairly blustery night, we woke to a wet, rainy and overcast day, so our plans for a walk on the beach and a snorkel went out the window or, should we say, out the port hole. Instead Elaine spent the day indoors sorting out and cataloging all our photos as well as writing a new article, which are now all ready to be uploaded to our website and gallery, just as soon as we get a decent wifi connection. She also decided it would be a great idea to do a cooked breakfast this morning and make buttermilk pancakes.Unfortunately they all came out as "flat as a pancake",we think, as a result of our baking powder going off.In reality though, were not altogether sure what caused the flop, but we ate them nonetheless. Roy on the otherhand was way more physical today as he completed the. read more...

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 32. Tahuata and Fatu Hiva. 10.27.90S 138.40.10W

Wednesday 23 March.The delightful Frenchman recommended by Laurent was clearly an expert in dealing with unhappy outboards.He came to see us shortly after breakfast, knew exactly what was required and The Skipper was able to fix the problem once the solution was explained.He refused payment as it was so easy to fix so we gave him a bottle of wine as we were very grateful for his help and for the fact that we could greet Carango without embarrassment, particularly as they were now in the Bay.We made sure we had paid for the laundry and fruit and then informed the WARC Office that we were leaving for Tahuata. The Skipper and Anthony set about getting the stern anchor up, no easy task as the mud in Tahauku seemed to have sucked in the anchor and which required the help of another strong. read more...

Firefly - Laying up in Malaysia

Today is Friday 1st April and Firefly is anchored on the west side of Pangkor Island. Tomorrow morning we are motoring around to Pangkor Marina and will have 2 nights afloat while we finish decommissioning and then be hauled out on Monday. We have been here for 2 days and are working as hard as we can to get the boat ready for the forthcoming 5 month lay up. However, its baking hot and apparently there is a heatwave in Malaysia at present, so work can only be done early in the morning and in the evening. Its not so bad - the hot, middle part of the day we have spent on the beach at the superb Nipah Deli. Eating lunch, meeting their hand fed Hornbill and then sitting in their sun loungers under a huge almond tree - complete with monkeys dropping almonds on customers.Going back a week, we. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm

Today was a mixed bag.Elaine started the day off with her exercises on the foredeck - The first time since leaving St Lucia. Ready for the day, she then enjoyed a nice chat to Keenan and, after breakfast, baked a Banana Loaf. She then spent the rest of the day sorting out photos in the hope of being able to upload them all when we get to Nuku Hiva in a week or so.Roy started the day off by cleaning the hulls - The first time since leaving La Playita,Panama. After breakfast he attempted to fix our gas barbecue,but to no avail - A new part is needed. He then investigated the source of the problem with our fridge - Fortunately it's the controller and not the compressor, but nonetheless,another new part needs to be purchased.Before we knew it, the day was over and we were saying goodbye to. read more...

Exody - Days 433-442: Epic, Lobster, Turtles, Barracuda

We have today anchored in Tobago Cays, that pearl of the Grenadines that still matches or indeed tops most of the special places we have visited around the world.But it is much more commercial and organised now with beach barbecue and other services like baguette delivery, mooring buoys, national park rangers etc.We share the main anchorage between Jamesby and Baradal with about 40 other craft.The water is the same translucent turquoise we remember and the turtles far more plentiful.It's Wednesday 30th March and ten days since our last log- ten days spent making our way up from south Grenada via St David's Harbour, then a close hauled sail to windward of Grenada for Tyrell Bay Carriacou and on to Clifton Harbour, Union Island, Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Chatham, Union Island.Union has. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners

It was a bright and early start for us this morning as we headed to Tahuata. Not long after we departed we had a convoy with Barbara Jean, Do Over and Belafonte following in hot pursuit.It was a great sail on headsail alone in 15 to 18 kts of wind which allowed us the opportunity to arrive in plenty of time to explore the various anchorages before deciding where we wanted to anchor for the next few days. We eventually decided on Baie Hanamoenoa or, as it is fondly referred to as "Stephen's Bay", named after the loan inhabitant who lives just off the beautiful sandy beach. As it turned out, half of the WARC fleet had also decided this idyllic bay was the best spot. After a snorkel, followed by early sundowners on Paw Paw with the folks off Belafonte, we all headed over to Widago to join. read more...

Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts

How do you provision your boat?A buying spree at the box store or sourcing local food products?Our new French friends have a great ability to save money and eat healthy.They collect their own papaya, mangos, bananas, shrimp, crabs, fish, lobster and hot peppers. (I think some of this is a moral grey area driven by land ownership).Others pick their own fruits and vegetables, but what impressed me with our friends was their purchase of a hen for fresh eggs.The previous time they tried this, while cruising Senegal, the plan failed because they bought a male.However this bird is also not producing eggs due to stress.The bulk of her life has been passage making over 3,000 miles of rolly seas. Tonight while at their boat for drinks we noticed that live crabs were trying to break out of the. read more...

Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity

Today, in the company of the WARC participants from Do Over, Giampi, Belafonte and Waterman, we enjoyed a hike to a beautiful waterfalls about an hour from town.It didn't take long for all of us to strip down to our swimware and take the plunge to cool off as soon as we arrived. We did, however, take the time to dry off on the rocks and enjoy our picnic lunch before heading back. Good times indeed!The hospitality and generosity of this little settlement continues to surprise us though. As the majority of our group made its way along the mainstreet en route to the waterfall, a few folks branched off to trade a fishing lure for some grapefruits - a common practice around the islands. Not only did they successfully complete the trade, but they re-joined the group bearing the most delicious. read more...