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Matilda - Cocos Keeling - Another bit of paradise



Cocos is a beautiful coral atoll, but with a very odd history. Basically one Anglo Scottish family, the Cluny-Ross's, took it over and shipped Malay labour to work coconut plantations. Eventually Australia reluctantly became responsible and the population now chiefly resides on Home Island, populated with the Muslim descendants of the workers, and West Island where the government and airport reside, and where the last of the Cluny-Ross's live (the last of the branch is now, amongst other things, a tour guide and clam entrepreneur). The big industry these days appears to be fielding the boat people that swarm in from Indonesia trying to get to Australia (mainly Sri Lankans, with Iraqis and Iranians) - we watched two boats being brought in yesterday, both of very poor quality packed to the gills with people. They then fly them on to Christmas Island for processing.

We are anchored off an absolutely stunning deserted island surrounded by crystal clear waters with some lovely coral reefs that make for excellent snorkelling. The fleet looks great with the island as a backdrop, and have been making the most of the location, even organising regular evening sundowners on the beach. Last night there was the award BBQ, again on the beach, enhanced by a breathtaking sunset and full moon rising. We also had a BBQ on 28th for Jonathan's birthday which was great fun - the party was shared with Daniel from Anastasia who also had a birthday.

Olga and Screco from Ciao gave a very noble and dignified thank-you to the boats who assisted, that got us all very emotional. Such a shame it all happened and that we didn't get the opportunity to know them better before now. The good news is they will be joining 1+1 as crew for the Rally from here on, at least up until South Africa - so we should get a chance to know them.

We are writing this from Home Island, a 30 minute dinghy ride away from our anchorage, which appears an idyllic community. The location is beautiful and the place neat and tidy with lovely gardens and public areas. Everyone is friendly and gets around by golf cart - giving it the impression of a holiday camp or Bond film. However I am told that unemployment is very high and when I spoke to a young shopkeeper about what a lovely place this was she looked a bit disbelieving and pointed out there was nothing to see or do. I suppose paradises are in the eyes of the beholder.

Must get on, we have a long list of jobs to do before we can set sail for Mauritius tomorrow morning. It is a long passage, but renowned to be quick due to current and winds. It can be a bit uncomfortable with a crossing swell, so we are hoping it will not get too exciting!


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