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Sapphire II - 11 June, Vava'u, Tonga



Being in the perpetual sunshine of tropical islands is the dream. The reality is that we have had rain in Tahiti, rain along the way here and, to cap it all, torrential rain all day yesterday. We had planned to attend a Tongan singing mass in the cathedral here (it was Sunday) but couldn't get off the boat! Instead we watched The Frozen Planet BBC documentary.

These islands are like nothing else we have seen before.They are coral and volcanic, heavily forested and brilliantly green. With around 100,000 people living on the 36 out of 171 inhabited islands there is no sign of humanity once cruising the islands away from the few population centers.

The approach to Neiafu, the main town of the Vava'u group of islands where we spent the first few days is breathtaking. More like the Gulf of Maine or the SW corner of Ireland because of all the small islets which dot the passage. Some of these present vertical faces up to 500 feet high and so the feeling is of coming through a 6 mile fjord to the anchorage on the second arm of an inverted "U". Neiafu town itself is , small, straggly, and down st the heels. No one is in any hurry but the people are happy and smile a lot.

The real charm of course are the many islands with their stunning greenery, crystalline waters of blues and greens and miles of empty white powdery sand beaches. Because of erosion at sea level the islands present like mushrooms with the tops being broader than the bases.

Weathering has also carved out many interesting caves. Gavin and some friends went into one today which required a 3 meter dive followed by an underwater snorkel through 3 meter tunnel before surfacing in the amazing 30 ft high cavern (comparable to the Blue Grotto in Capri).

Later today we plan to enter The Swallows Cave which is home to hundreds of starlings. This we can do by dingy.....so I'm on for this adventure!


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