It was wild, it was ugly but we made it.
Cape Town and its surrounds must be one of the most beautiful places in the world. Taking advantage of the quiet (most of the World ARC boats were sparsely attended, with crews already departed home for Christmas or touring around the sights of the Cape), Marcel went off surfing and the Skipper managed to hire a car and take in some of the local sights. These included the magnificence of Table Mountain, with what must be one of the greatest views anywhere in the world, and a trip to Simon's Town and the Cape of Good Hope National Park. Then it was onto the great Gozome Bird (courtesy of Sir R Branson), and back home for a strenuous and very hectic family Christmas.
All too soon, it was back onto the crowded Virgin Atlantic Airbus for the long return flight into Cape Town's International Airport. It was below freezing when we left, and little physical hardship to get back to the Cape Town climate. But catching up with family and friends and celebrating Christmas at home after a year away was a real pleasure, and leaving before the New Year was in was not easy. The World ARC machine and the incomparable Royal Cape Yacht Club were in top gear when we arrived. Cleone has a brand-new crew, and it was difficult to fit the work to get her ready for sea around the New Year and Bahia Race celebrations. We managed it, just, but will no doubt find the un-mended systems and un-stowed kit a nuisance and a menace respectively.
Cleone's new crew are Graham Brown from Nately Scures in Hampshire, and Jenni Viver and Shayne Maidwell from Cape Town. They have a variety of experience, including some sailing, and no doubt you will hear more of them later.
After a blessing by both the Dean of Cape Town and a priest from Salvador to help guard us on our journey, we slipped our berth with great help from a team of well-wishers from Jenni and Shayne's family and friends. This gave us a short time for some sail-training before being swept over the start line, which was thronged not just by the thirty four World ARC and Bahia Race participants but also with what seemed like hundreds of spectator boats. We managed the short up-wind leg to the laid mark in good style, with some nifty helming and a judicious shout or two to other boats to encourage them to keep clear. It was a relief to turn north west and head out to sea, and although there are many boats still in VHF range, now we can see but two sails on the skyline. As we left the bay, there were whales blowing and diving right alongside us, there was a wonderful sun-set and a beautifully clear night and a good sailing breeze for most of the time. It's been a great induction for the new crew, though it is always difficult to sleep during the first night at sea. Appetites have yet to return, but we are all getting to know each-other fast, and so far it's going well. We have done over one hundred and twenty miles since we left Cape Town, which leaves us a mere 1560 or so to go to St Helena!
South Africa has to be one of the most beautiful and interesting places in the world, with a fabulous variety of countryside and a wonderful climate. It gave us what was probably the most challenging but picturesque sailing of our trip so far. The people of all kinds and all creeds are friendly, and we were wonderfully welcomed and looked after wherever we went. It has huge natural wealth, and a well-developed infrastructure allows this to be successfully exploited. The well maintained roads in the cities are crowded with new cars, and the shops and supermarkets are crammed with everything you would find in modern cities all over the world. And yet it is an uneasy and still divided society, with what seems a bureaucracy ridden and only partially competent administration. Many people find it necessary to live behind razor wire and electric fences, with armed guards and fierce dogs to protect them. Many more live in dreadful shanty towns in crude shacks with no running water and an earth closet in the corner of a scrubby patch of garden. Skilled people are haemorrhaging away, mainly to Australia, New Zealand and Canada. People tell you South Africa is teetering on a Zimbabwe-like implosion, and they keep their fingers permanently crossed. It is hard to disagree with them.
Meanwhile, we are en-route across the South Atlantic. We will let you know how it all goes.
All well on board, and best wishes from
James, Graham, Jenni and Shayne