We left Suwarrow on Sunday, June 1 after some challenges getting our anchor up. The chain had wrapped around a number of coral heads during our stay. The first 24 hours provided great sailing (8-9 kts), but we paid for the pleasure with a lot of pain during the remainder of the passage. We endured constant rain, frequent squalls with 35 kt winds, choppy 10 foot seas which caused the boat a lot of bone-jarring slams down the backs of the waves. The final indignity occurred on the last day when Niue was some 30 miles away due West and the wind was blowing 20 kts from due West. We tacked and tacked all day and managed a pathetic 25 miles towards our destination. Then we were advised from Niue that the anchorage on the west coast of the island was untenable!
So we found a comparatively quiet spot on the NE corner in the lee of the island and hove-to for the night. Relative bliss. Next morning the wind had backed to the south and we enjoyed a pleasant sail to the anchorage.
Niue, population around 2,000, turned out to be a delightful place. The people are extraordinarily friendly, the land is pleasantly green and the cliffs which circumscribe the island are riddled with the most dramatic caves, full of stalactites and stalagmites. The commodore of the Niue Yacht Club proved a wonderful host and an excellent raconteur. All manner of insights, advice and assistance was provided willingly. The government of NZ provides financial assistance to Niue and this shows in the outstanding facilities which support tourism.
There are many scenic walks down the cliffs to the sea, each one accessing natural wonders of caves, limpid pools with the clearest of water and snorkeling areas. Each walk (and there are many) is well sign-posted, has steps and hand rails and toilets and showers! And not a sign of any vandalism.
On our last night, Saturday, some 12 crew enjoyed a Japanese meal with accompanying sake. It was a great ending to our time in a really remarkable place.