26 June 2010
With a distance of 105nm from Suva to Denerau Marina on the west side of Viti Levu we wanted to make sure we arrived at the Navula Passage, our entrance through the reef in daylight. But first we had to negotiate our way through a tricky passage called the Beqa Channel. This kept both of us up for the first part of the night and very much on our toes, its narrowest point between the unmarked reefs being only one nautical mile. For once the Max Sea chart was accurate and it was backed up with the radar and eyeball navigation, a half moon just giving enough light. We do miss the excellent reef markers of French Polynesia. Here they are very much a non entity. Thereafter we hugged the Coral Coast and sailing in very light winds, made our way up the island's western side to arrive at the pass shortly after dawn. Another 20nm further on we crept up the rather tight and tortuous narrow channel to Port Denerau with just one and a half metres under the keel in spite of the fact that the chart said we should have a minimum depth of 3!
Perspective on Fiji
I would say that Fiji is our least favourite of Pacific Islands. It is more attractive to view from the sea, the mountainous ranges of the eastern part of Viti Levu punctuated by Joske's Thumb, a high volcanic plug, and on its westward side layers of browns and greens gently merge as the fertile inlands meet the drier coastal slopes. It has many expensive resorts but the surrounding countryside and villages are as poor as poor. In spite of that the people must be amongst the friendliest of all the Pacific peoples. The one thing that is of real interest to the cruising yachtsman is that it is an excellent place to have any boat repairs, with rates being very reasonable. Also it is the place to provision for that final leg to Australia. Port Denerau and Vuda Point Marinas are on offer to yachtsmen with the former proving to be the one of choice amongst the rally boats. As of today, Saturday, there are now eleven of us here. Our own lift out (again!) hopefully for one day only, is booked for Monday in order that David can change the prop shaft seal.
Susan Mackay