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Two Fish - Experimental Tourists by Gail



When you hear "Kon-Tiki", you might have a vague memory of Thor Heyerdahl and his misguided attempt to prove that the Polynesian peoples are descendants of trade wind travelers from South merica. DNA tests have since proven him wrong. We encountered Thor in Rapa Nui, where he raised the fallen Moas, and elevated himself to rock star status (pun intended), and in Fatu Hiva, where he instead angered the locals, perhaps with his self-importance, and was eventually driven from the island.
His raft, propelled only by wind and oars, and launced from the West Coast of South America, eventually ended up on a lee shore in the Tuamotus. The Kon-Tiki crew were less enthusiastic about their arrival here than we were. Having successfully navigated the narrow pass at a less than optimal time, but with the expert guidance of Jason and Two Fish, we were excited to drop our anchor and enjoy the beauty of this coral atoll.
After chatting with our neighboring boat, who happened to be the couple who brought two goats with them on their passage, we were introduce to one of the islanders, Turamotu. He agreed to take us to "Kon-Tiki Island", on the other side of the atoll, where we could see the reef that Kon-Tiki was finally impaled upon. It turns out that some of the islanders have been trying to figure out how to start a tourism business. There are only one hundred or so inhabitants and they only recently gained an air-strip with one small prop plane visit a week. Our day with Turamotu was to be his first attempt at showing visitors the beauty of Raroia. He was, of course, a natural. After walking with us on the edge of the reef, he took us to the most amazing snorkel spot. After our swim, we were greeted by freshly cut coconuts, the best I have ever had.
Later in the day, he and our sailboat friend, Chris, took Jason and Jim on a drift dive. Jason claims it is the best dive he has ever done.
But the day was not yet over. Another islander, Reggie, has a meeting spot on the beach, where people gather to chat and drink Hinano's. Ever eager to please others, he agreed to join us in the evening and invite his ukulele-playing friends to provide the music. The day ended magically as we listened to the sweet voices singing along with the music. Music is participatory here, so four drums were also brought out for us; Reggie tried to guide us in playing the correct beat.
Once we return to the land of internet, I promise that we will spread the word of the beauty of Raroia, but I am secretly thinking that I on't want to ruin the magic.


Photos: Our boat ride to the outer island and reef edge where Kon Tiki crashed. Trio of local singers make the evening magical.


boat (1 of 1)
sing (1 of 1)

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