Firefly - Magnetic Island to Cairns and onwards north in the wake of Captain Cook

Its Friday 14th August and we are bound for Cooktown with an ETA of about 1630. With a limited signal from our Aussie mobile we have just called Thomas and reserved a berth on his pontoon. This was recommended in the notes we received from our World ARC 2014 friends, Manfred and Annelise on Tulasi (who are already in Darwin) as anchoring room is apparently very limited in the harbour. We left Cairns yesterday having been moored at the Marlin Marina for 3 nights.

A couple or days previously our one night stop at Magnetic Island included a dinghy trip ashore to visit to Koala Bear wildlife centre. The morning was spent on a wildlife park bush walk with a guide and as well the highlight, Susie cuddling a Koala Bear, we also got to meet various lizards, snakes and birds close up.

The 160 mile trip from Magnetic Island to Cairns had been made during a period of lighter winds and we had three days constant use of 'The Admiral', our new North Gennekar. There were a few periods when we needed the engine but other than this, it was probably the best yacht cruising we have ever done. Sunshine, flat water, superb mountainous scenery and most of the time we had 10 knots of wind allowing us to broad reach with the kite up at about 7 or 8 knots. We anchored at Orpheus Island the first night and High Island the second, again great cruising as there is nothing better than a full nights sleep.

During the stopover at Cairns we packed in some great activities as well as getting everything prepared for our onward passage to Darwin. We arrived at the well organised marina at midday on Tuesday and used the first afternoon to check in, get the laundry done, the dive gear ready for Wednesday's diving and to hire a car for Thursday. We had booked a dive trip on 'Silverswift', a fast cat that goes to the outer reefs daily and takes about 80 passengers. Of these 20 were diving and the remainder either snorkeling or just sightseeing. Initially it was a little concerning to be with such a big group but the day was exceptional. The winds continued to be light and therefore the visibility at Flynn Reef was very good. We had 3 dives, 2 before lunch and one after and really did not feel like we stopped all day. Our experienced dive guide, Ty, shared our enthusiasm and we saw numerous interesting fish and corals, the highlights being a sizeable Lemon Shark, shoals of Barracuda and several Giant Clams.

Thursday was spent visiting the Atherton Tablelands by car. The scenery had been so spectacular from the water that we decided we needed to see it closer up and it was a good decision. Heading south west from Cairns our first stop was at the Mamu Rainforest Skywalk. We found this via the Lonely Planet guide and really enjoyed the hour or so walk on elevated walkways and a huge tower right up in the tree tops of this World Heritage Site, ancient rainforest. The commentary provided via the headsets felt a little alien at first but was well done. On from there we completed the Millaa Millaa waterfall circuit, a drive around some lush hilly farmland with stops and short walks to see 3 impressive falls. Feeling ready for a late lunch we next stopped at Yaloo Dairy centre, a dairy farm specializing in cheese and chocolate. Feeling we needed a difibriliator following our cheese platter and iced chocolate drinks we watched the cows being milked in the semi automated milking parlour - farming is definately not glamorous. The final stop was at the Lake Barrine crater lake before we headed back to Cairns.

Arriving just in time at Reef Teach, we attended an evenings lecture on the Great Barrier Reef given by Eric a local marine biologist. Having done so much diving and snorkeling it was great to learn more about coral reefs and the life they support. It was also re assuring that Eric confirmed that the reefs are actually in very good condition - especially off Australi. They are definately under pressure from climate change and a host of other 'man made' issues but there is no evidence at present that they will be dying and degrading in the near future, Eric assured us that those concerns are all media hype!

We timed our departure from Cairns as the trade winds filled back in and had a very fast sail to Low Islets some 40 miles north. Anchoring with 4 other World ARC yachts and spent the night behind the reef following a crocodile free snorkel (we checked with the local guides). We left early this morning and are now sailing to Cooktown with about 20 knots of wind from behind. Goose winged, we are sailing at about 7 to 8 knots in brilliant sunshine and relatively flat water - really superb again.

We are passing the 'Endeavour Reef' where Cook's Endeavour nearly foundered back in 1770. Cook had made the decision to sail offshore during the night to get around some dangers he had sighted before dusk - it was a bad decision - but bear in mind he had no charts or GPS. Its immensely significant around here as had they foundered it is quite likely that Australians could have been speaking French or Dutch. However, they survived, having jettisoned cannons and ballast, the Endeavour was freed from the reef and the crew struggled on to a nearby river on the mainland (now called the Endeavour River) where they spent 48 days repairing the ship. Cooktown, as the settlement later became known is a place where a number of historical firsts occured. It was the first recorded place where Englishmen spent more than a few days ashore and the first true contact with the Aborigne took place, the indigines slowly but surely trusting in the visitors' sign of peaceful intent and where the kangaroo was first sighted and named!

Paul and Susie