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Firefly - South Island Road Trip



Way back in Fiji in July 2014, the crews from all of the World ARC boats that were breaking off the rally to go to New Zealand had a meeting to compare plans. Firefly was the only yacht that had the South Island in its itinerary and we were at that time considering cruising to Fiordland, way down south and on the windy and isolated west coast.



Over the following months we discussed our sailing plans with numerous New Zealand sailors and only about 20% recommended sailing south, all but a few ruled out Fiordland and most agreed that traveling by car was the best way to see that half of NZ. So common sense prevailed, Firefly was rested at the excellent Fairway Bay Marina near Gulf Harbour and we flew to Christchurch and hired a car.



Another option would have been to hire a camper van. However the sums did not add up as camper van hire is really expensive and a low cost hire car and pre booked B&B's were cheaper overall - and living on a boat we have effectively been camping since September 2013 - so it was time to be land lubbers!



We spent 25 days touring in an anti clockwise direction......the weather was kind and the South Island is a really great place to visit.



After Christchurch we stopped at Kaikoura to go whale watching and see the Sperm Whales that feed in the deep sea canyon near the coast. Then we headed north to Renwick, in the heart of Marlborough wine country to visit the wineries by bicycle and enjoy many tastings. It was a long winding unsealed road around Kenepuru, one of the majestic Marlborough Sounds where we kayaked, collected mussels and enjoyed the company at Hopewell Lodge. At Golden Bay near Abel Tasman, we stayed with family of good friends at home... our excellent hosts, Bryan and Nancy introduced us to many of the locals who have a relaxed lifestyle in this beautiful area known for its good weather and 'hippy' communities.



Moving south, we drove down the west coast, stopped to see the Pancake Rocks and then went on to Franz Joseph to see the Glacier and view Mount Cook. Further south, through the Haast Pass, Lake Wanaka was another spectacular mountainous area with fantastic scenery. We celebrated Valentines Day at the inexpensive but luxurious Ruby's Cinema - watching 'What we did on our holiday' in huge leather reclining seats. Queenstown our next stop, is probably the biggest tourist attraction in NZ, in another beautiful mountain setting, humming with people doing all kinds of sporting activities - it was here that we rode on the Shotover River Jet Boat. Paul had long ago read about this adrenalin filled ride through canyons and over rapids and was keen to experience it. It was absolutely stunning, Paul went for a 2nd ride while Susie rested - how they get this activity 'passed' with NZ Health and Safety is amazing, incredibly fast with the boat passing so close to the canyon walls.



Our next stop was in Te Anau, the gateway to Fiordland. Here we had a boat trip on each of our 3 days, to the glow worm caves, Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound. The last one was the most memorable, the trip following a whole night of torrential rain. It was still pouring at the start of the cruise but the weather cleared quickly and we were privileged to see Milford in sunshine but with waterfalls gushing from nearly every sea cliff. Heading east we visited the Otago Peninsula and saw Royal Albatross flying above their only mainland colony and then checked in to stay the night at Larnarch Castle. It's the only castle in NZ, built in 1871 with dinner served for all the guests in William Larnach's drawing room as the hostess told us the history of both the castle and William, a Dunedin banker, merchant and politician.



As our trip drew to the end we met up with friends Barney and Juanita in Akaroa on the Banks's Peninsula just south of Christchurch. This picturesque rugged area is the result of a huge ancient volcano, the small town is on the edge of a seawater inlet somewhat similar in appearance to Salcombe. We had 4 days here, we visited several gardens, a vineyard, hiked and went on an nature cruise. We also ate and drank very well as we celebrated our 25th Wedding Anniversary.



We arrived back at Firefly with no regrets at all that we had toured by car. We have since resumed our cruising in the Hauraki Gulf of the North Island and will be posting regular blogs again as we head back north towards the Bay of Islands, our point of departure for the passage to Tonga at the beginning of May.



Paul and Susie

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