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28/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 11: Teahupoo

We rode the wave at Teahupoo!! Well kind of: we were on Coco's small taxi boat that took us to the edge of the wave, riding over the swell literally at the end of the reef and the wave.We managed to hit the only body-board competition this year being held and were so close we had competitors in the water next to the boat waiting to go out and coming in.Awesome,(and totally terrifying for the first couple of waves!). But Coco was an expert in getting us into position for a front row view of the action.Dougal and Val adopted us for the day on their drive around the island and we called in at the 3 cascades (incredible waterfall) and the blowhole in the north.The blowhole was great fun: so loud and so fierce, but only maybe a foot wide.The blast of air coming up, accompanied by a huge roar. read more...


27/04/2017

Misto - Days 107-110 At Marina Taina

The swell has created a rather uncomfortable situation at the marina but as we had no windlass we did not have an option of moving.Also we needed to be here for all the technicians coming to do various jobs.The generator has been repaired to the extent that we can without new parts - the exhaust hose was replaced and the raw water pump shaft cleaned but we need a new exhaust elbow as well as some other parts.Stephen from Sumore has kindly offered to bring them back from the U.K. - now we just need to get them ordered which is challenging with an 11 hour time difference between here and the U.K.The windlass now appears to be working - new bushes, a 100 amp breaker and wired into the house batteries - the latter two items per spec but not how Nautitech had done it!On Monday when we still. read more...


27/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 22.-25. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Dagen derpå ble fruene sittende i båten etter frokost. Da ble det litt blogging og kryssordløsing mens mennene fikset leiebil. De kom tilbake til lunsj, og etterpå pakket vi og dro til stranda. Et riktig fint uteområde var det, med parkeringsplass, park, kafeteria, toaletter, dusj og omkledningsrom. Vi fikk både badet og snorklet, og etterpå dro vi videre sørvestover. Stoppet ved noen fine grotter med fossefall og all slags nydelig vegetasjon.Vi tok for oss hele vestkysten, og nesten helt ned til neste lille halvøy. Var innom ei fin, svart sandstrand, og der var ungdommene samlet med uteaktiviteter både i vann og på land. Lette etter en restaurant, og fant en slags hamburger/pizzarestaurant som så grei ut. Der kjøpte vi en stor pizza. Fortsatte litt videre mot halvøya, men snudde ved et. read more...


24/04/2017

Timshel - Tahiti

Ah Tahiti - Pontoon, electricity, water, supermarket, shops, chandleries, cars, dual carriageway, bright lights, French baguettes - all good.Internet - not so good - and expensive (also phone calls home), can't have everything I guess.Arrived first thing Friday morning having drifted for several hours to wait for daylight, Just behind Lexington and Altair and closely followed by Aurora Polaris, Scallywag and Skyelark, marina were going crazy trying to berth everyone.In fact we were led to the end of a pontoon of small Sport fishers (stern to) and berthed alongside.Highly convenient, out of any swell and chop - guess there are some advantages in being relatively small.And one of the Fishers gave us some deliciousyellow fin tuna that they had just caught (and were dismembering on the. read more...


Misto - Lunch at La Plage de Maui
Misto - Lunch at La Plage de Maui
Misto - Pointe Venus light house - the only one in Tahiti
Misto - Pointe Venus light house - the only one in Tahiti
24/04/2017

Misto - Days 104-106: Tahiti and Howard’s Birthday

After a lumpy and rolly journey with rather variable wind that meant motor-sailing through the night to ensure that we would arrive in daylight, we arrived at Marina Taina at 15h30 on April 20.  Our first sight of Tahiti was of jagged mountain peaks thrusting into the clouds with squalls in the valleys and verdant greenery covering all the lower slopes that fell into the sea.  Really very dramatic!  Rounding the West side of the island you are in wind shadow and the wind dropped dramatically so that we had to motor.  We were moored on the outer concrete pontoon at Marina Taina which entails med mooring but then the marina staff dive and attach additional bow lines to blocks of concrete set in the sea bed.  Although it gets a little bumpy at times from passing. read more...


24/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 18.-21. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Det ble ikkeno Toau, nei. Kapteinen avgjorde at vi ble der vi var. Vinden lå mellom 25-30 knop inne i atollen, og det pøsregnet innimellom. Da måtte vi finne på ting å gjøre innendørs. Kapteinen satt med symaskinen store deler av dagen. Kaptinnen bakte brød, og en fra crewet skiftet noen pumper inne på toalettet, mens øvrige crew var med i matlaging og oppvask. Etterpå måtte alle mann på dekk for å sette opp presenningen som kapteinen hadde fikset på, - og det i stiv kuling! Han måtte jo finne ut om alt fungerte som det skulle. I løpet av dagen kom Tulla Mhore innom og lurte på om vi trengte noe. Vi bad dem kjøpe grønnsaker og litt frukt dersom det var dukket opp noe på butikken, og samtidig bad vi dem til middag. De kom tilbake med grønnsaker, for frukt var ikke å oppdrive. Det var nok. read more...


Misto - Howard's Birthday at Marina Taina Tahiti
Misto - Howard's Birthday at Marina Taina Tahiti
21/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 10: Hussle and Bussle

Tahiti.....Despite being beautiful, its very busy (and we've only explored the marina so far), which is a far cry from what we have been used to in the Marquesas and Tuamotos. We had a very bumpy journey down, reaching 33 knots of wind and over 13 knots of boat speed when we surfed down waves, and arrived shortly before 1600. Unfortunately it was another fishless journey, hooking one fish that quickly decided that it didnt want our rubber squid and let go. What are we doing wrong?! We now look forward to a full nights sleep (bliss) before we head out to see what Tahiti has to offer, but not before a few rums soaked up with some seriously overdue mac n' cheese.17,35,04S 149,37,11W LD: Thursday 21st April 18.26. read more...


20/04/2017

Timshel - Off to Tahiti

After Fakarava (where it blew a lot from the W and was rather bouncy) we headed to Toau.Exited the Fakarava pass in a rain squall and arrived at the pass into Anse Amyot in another this time with 25 knots of wind as well.The Amiels, Shamal and Ashia, had overtaken us and went in first and Marcel was very kind to come over in his dinghy to help us get the buoy.It was rather alarming with the strong wind and the tide rushing past - but no rolling or sailing around the boat was completely steady (just the dinghy filled with water!).Sumore and Laura Dawn soon arrived then Misto the next morning.Unfortunately the weather - lashing rain and 25 knots plus of wind - did not allow us to fully appreciate the beautiful place nor could Cameron's friends Valentin and Gaston open their restaurant for. read more...


20/04/2017

Misto - Days 102-103 Toau

Tropical depression 19 brought endless hours of rain to the Tuomotus along with winds constantly in the 20-35 knot range. During one brief respite Joe, from Altair came to Misto and he and Howard opened up the windlass motor - it looked brand spanking new, not a trace of corrosion or problems were evident.However, we have discovered that the breaker is not appropriately rated for the windlass and the issue could in fact be, the breaker.We won't be able to check that theory out until we get to Tahiti.Having delayed our departure to Toau due to the windlass issues, we had hoped to depart around midnight on April 17, however when the alarm roused us and we climbed out of bed the wind was howling through the rigging and the driving rain was horizontal, so we returned to bed! Waking again at. read more...


20/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 9: Windy City

38 knots overnight... making it a windy city here in Taou.It didnt stop us exploring though yesterday and snorkelling (well attempting to anyway), and we found loads of crabs on the little island that was next to us in the anchorage.We took the dinghy over (sideways mostly), and Martin even finally got his haircut on the beach there.Tuna for dinner courtesy of Cameron and Siebeles catch on the way up from Kauehi, as our fish hunting wasn't so fruitful on LD!Shamal, Ashia, Misto and Timshel were also in, so we spent a happy couple of hours catching up with them ashore at the 'Happy hour' that Valentine and Gaston put on at their home/restaurant.Amazing people, fantastic place and we certainly hope to go back someday.An amazing sunrise this morning set us off on our way to Tahiti and it. read more...


18/04/2017

Lexington - Fakarava

We are on a mooring ball at the south end of Fakarava atoll. It has been a rainy, windy day. In the late afternoon it was not raining so we invited the adjacent boat over for coffee. They were a couple from Holland. They have done major sailing off and on all over. They bought their current boat in Florida. They are sailing it to Australia where they plan to sell it. They buy a boat for a journey and then sell it when they are through. They were an enjoyable couple to meet. She is a change consultant. She comes in to a company when they are making a major change like a new computer system and she coordinates the change. Interesting job. He described himself as a businessman. I think he invested in rental property. They seemed very knowledgeable about keeping a boat that was older. read more...


18/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 15.., 16. og 17. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Det ble litt arbeid med å få opp ankeret om morgenen den 15.april. Hadde avtalt med «Tulla Mhore» at vi skulle seile sammen til Kuaehi rundt kl.8.30. Før det hadde kaptein og kaptinne vært på land og handlet. Butikken åpner kl.6 om morgenen. Til slutt lyktes vi, og da ankeret endelig kom til overflaten, hadde det en diger korall med seg. Tor gjorde seg klar til å hente den opp, men da kapteinen skulle løfte den ytterligere med ankervinsjen, glapp den og datt uti. «Tulla Mhore» strevde også med sitt anker, men klarte til slutt å komme seg løs. Vi satte kursen mot åpningen i korallrevet, og så de mørke skyene som hadde samlet seg. Etter hvert fikk vi regn og vind.Været fulgte oss helt til Kuaehi. Vi seilte mot landsbyen, og valgte å ankre opp utenfor kirken, siden vi hadde tenkt å gå dit. read more...


18/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 13. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Hai, hai, folkens – jeg bare sier det, så er det sagt! I dag har vi snorkletmed hai rundt omkring oss. Heldigvis var det mye annet fint å se også.Koraller i lilla, blått, grønt, rødt, gult, oransje. Fiskene var enda merfargerike. Noen hadde alle regnbuens farger, andre var blå, gule, røde,grønne og med flere fargekombinasjoner. Vi kjøpte/leide snorkelutstyr, gikkut i dinghyen og hoppet uti og svømte med dinghyen på slep. Var uti 1-2timer. Det er jo fantastisk, men jeg skal ikke skryte på meg at jeg ersteintøff. Jeg dunket stadig hodet borti dinghyen, med det resultatet at jegfikk vann inn i maska. Så ble det litt kaving for å få ut vannet før jegkunne dyppe hodet nedi igjen. Under oss svømte dykkerne, og jeg var igrunnen litt glad for at jeg var høyere oppe. Etter hvert ble vi tatt. read more...


18/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 8: Our last stop

Well we are underway to our last stop in the Tuamotos. We are en route to Toau for our last couple of days in this amazing place.Its been a whirlwind romp around the atolls and we've called in at Fakarava: village, south and south pass, Kauehi: village and pass, where we spent a very happy and slightly scary at times afternoon snorkeling the pass (the sharks are a little more inquisitive there!) and a fab evening on board Misto for dinner and a few drinks, an overnight stop in Raraka: where a very helpful local kindly showed us the way in through the narrowest and choppiest pass yet (we fully buried the trampoline underwater a couple of times getting out!), then back to Kauehi ready for the early start this morning; which was a little delayed due to our anchor chain being wrapped around. read more...


18/04/2017

Misto - Days 95-101: Kauehi and back to Fakarava

Kauehi is an easy day sail away and for us it was a boisterous close reach across from the south of Fakarava.We spent the first night by the village, Tearavero, a small settlement boasting two stores, a large Church and not really much else.The water near the village was not particularly clear when we were there and so we went to join Timshel, Tastelai and Skylark who were anchored in the south of the Atoll.this met my desire for a deserted dessert island-type anchorage.The small Motus in the south were populated only with palm trees and coconut crabs crushed coral beaches fringed each one.The other vessels left us the following day and we enjoyed a night of true isolation before meeting up with Sumore, Owl and Laura Dawn closer to the pass where we drift snorkelled and had a pot luck. read more...


17/04/2017

Lexington - Captain Bob: Rain

So the weather system that changed the wind the way we wanted also brought a fairly steady foggy rain. I am sitting under the dodger drinking my morning coffee while the others sleep in. The fella on the next boat is positioning a piece of canvas to try to catch water for his fresh water tanks. Unfortunately a little wind comes with rain. He was having some difficulty because the wind was getting under his canvas and making it convex instead of concave. It was a little fun to watch a totally naked person in the rain trying to control 450 square feet of canvas. We are blessed with a water maker. It is a mixed blessing since that is one more thing to learn about and maintain. We would have been hard up for water at the first of the trip since it rained very little. I suppose if we had. read more...


17/04/2017

Lexington - Big Fish

So I hear that Joe and Jack Barton are keeping up with my adventure. Their grandfather, Bob Barton, has a big world map that he helps them see where we are. I have a picture of a big fish I am sending them to put in their pond.  :) Joe and Jack, can you tell what the fish is that was swimming with me? Bob. read more...


17/04/2017

Lexington - South End Fakarava

We got to our anchorage area at the south end shortly after noon. We were able to pick up a mooring ball. I used my hookah and swam around the boat. The first thing I did was to retrieve the boat hook which we dropped overboard while picking up the mooring ball. I had to swim around a little to find it. As it sank it probably drifted to the side. Sam and Karen explored around and found a place to eat. It was a group dinner that they prepared for all their guests. It was very good. We had tuna, cheese, rice, a salad, noodles with a peanut sauce, beef and mixed vegetables and a fruit cup for dessert. They had several guests that were there diving. There were about 30 people in all. Most were from France. It was the typical boating adventure. It rained on us as we dinghied in. We landed our. read more...


17/04/2017

Lexington - Easter Sunday at the southern end of Fakavara

We came to the south end today hoping the the winds would change to the south which is more favorable. We are on a mooring ball so that is a little easier. I fired up my hookah and had a very pleasant dive in about 25 feet of water. There was a lot of dead coral but a good number of fish. A few sharks were swimming around. Sam and Karen are out exploring a little. There are four other boats here. I will send a couple of photos of the beach area. There are some huts on the beach. May fair winds fill your sails from the right direction! Bob. read more...


17/04/2017

Lexington - Captain Bob: 16°. 16' south. 145°. 32 west.

We are headed to the south end of Fakarava. It is supposed to be a beautiful site. It is the site of the old capital Tetamanu, which is largely abandoned now from what I read. I do know that there is a dive shop and a few places to eat so it is probably more alive than when the book was written. Sailing is largely weather-based. There is a weather system to our southwest that caused north and west winds instead of the usual south east trades. When you are picking an anchorage you generally want the land nearest you blocking the wind and the wind blowing you offshore. Part of this is because winds build with fetch. Fetch is the distance over the water that winds have an effect over. Time is also a factor. We are heading to this area in hopes that the wind will veer (change direction in a. read more...


16/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 14. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Før frokost, kl 7.15 dro vi nordover igjen. Denne gangen la vi oss rett utenfor wifi-en på øya. Nå har vi ikke hatt skikkelig nettverk siden San Cristobal på Galapagos, så kapteinen var ganske frustrert. Vi godtet oss over at vi var alene der, og at de andre ARC-båtene lå lenger inne mot landsbyen. Vi hadde ikke før lagt oss til, før den ene ARC-båten etter den andre elget seg innpå oss. Vi skyndte oss inn på kafeen for å være først til mølla med internettet. De andre slengte seg på, og vi fikk ikke være alene lenge. Vi måtte jo handle litt is og kaffe, og så var alle oppslukt av devicet sitt. Kapteinen fikk dermed ikke gjort det han var kommet for, så vi betalte og gikk videre til neste «internettkafe», som var yachtservice, der vi hadde leid sykler tidligere. Her fikk han endelig. read more...


16/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 12. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Dagen for avreise sørover. Nå er det snorkling som gjelder, og jeg må bare venne meg til tanken på å snorkle med haier rundt oss. Terje og Tor dro inn for å handle frukt, og kom med en bærepose med appelsiner, pampelmousse (har’ke peiling på stavemåten, men de ligner grapefrukt, har ingen steiner og er søte) epler, smør og tomater. På turen sørover hadde vi fruktsalalat, müsli og yoghurt, og etterpå kaffe. Tor fikk i oppdrag å snurre kaffekverna, og var sånn passe fornøyd med det. Har dere fått en ny kaffeslusk? var kommentaren. Her må man slite for fornøyelsene, var svaret han fikk. «Søren, me glømte kagene» - da kaffen kom på bordet.Omtrent halvvegs gikk vi inntil revet igjen for å bade og snorkle litt. Det er som et eventyr. Hvit korallstrand, palmer og korallrev og turkis vann. Det. read more...


16/04/2017

Timshel - Tuamotus Too

On Tuesday afternoon we moved to the S end of the Kauehi lagoon, along with Skyelark and Taistealai, well we let Skyelark go first figuring that if she made it OK with her deep keel we would be fine.And so it proved, the electronic charts seemed to be pretty accurate, rocks marked were there in the correct place.We could see the anchor touch down and set itself in sand in wonderful clear water, near little Motus (islands) with Palm tress and shallow passes through the reef, and no-one else around. Exactly what you expect from a wonderful Pacific island.We had a Sundowner party with a fire on the beach courtesy of Skyelark.The beach was alive with hermit crabs of various sizes, but so far no coconut crabs (apparently they are 2-3 ft across and nocturnal).We all decided to stay another day. read more...


15/04/2017

Lexington - Fakarava Diving

Sam and I continued with diving today. Sam did a lesson and I did a drift dive at the entrance to the atoll. In the entrance are small canyons that run in and out of the entrance. They time the dive for slack water (no current) and as the dive progresses the current carries you along as the water is going out or in. Fish gather in this area because the current is carrying other fish in or out that are the food for bigger fish. The dive operation is extra nice and not that busy. I have had the same dive master with me on each dive. The other divers are more experienced and need less supervision. My dive master sticks with me to make sure I am doing ok. I tend to breath too much and run low on air too soon. He will then let me use some of his air to keep from cutting the dive short. I did. read more...


15/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 7: Celebrations

Its a slow boat this morning... Jacks birthday was truly celebrated yesterday despite an early start to sail over to Kauei: Taromatahara to explore a new atoll. We left Fakarava by the South Pass and after a lot of motoring were able to sail most of the way here.We convoyed with Sumore and Owl who joined us for beer and a dinner feast celebration on board LD.The birthday boy had a banner, presents: including a rather impressive tash comb amongst other gifts from the guys on Owl who also brought balloons, beers (quite a few of those), swims (including an end of the night dunk), cake (with candles), trifle (well our best efforts of anyway), singing, a fab harmonica performance from Siebele and Stephen and some general chatting and having fun.All in all an excellent time had and hopefully a. read more...


15/04/2017

Yoda - The countdown begin's

Well 20 Days until we set off on another adventure!Lord help us….no really, please Lord help us or Neptune or Mother nature, who ever is listening really.Who knew a girl from the most land locked part of Canada would be even contemplating such an adventure, never mind actually doing a transatlantic!?A year and a half ago we set sail from Gibraltar to get across to the Caribbean with a pretty inexperienced crew, minus my husband and I of course and now it’s time to go back. We didn’t opt for the ARC on that journey as we thought we had something to proveby doing it on our own. Now with no crew we just think it makes sense and it will be nice to have a welcome committee to rejoice with when we arrive and some radio contact along the way. A few organised parties helps as well! mmm Rum. read more...


Yoda - The countdown begin's
Yoda - The countdown begin's
14/04/2017

Lexington - 4/12/17 Fakarava Atoll

We are now in Fakarava. The Tuamotu Archipelago is a string of atolls that stretch about 1,000 miles across the Pacific. There is a group of people called Paumotu that are the natives. These islands (atolls) are between the Marquesas Islands and the Society Islands. They are all part of French Polynesia. There are 76 islands but only about 30 are inhabited. Possibly the biggest fact on being inhabited is their size and do they have an entrance. Atolls have an outer barrier reef. If there is no significant break in the reef then you cannot get into the protected inner lagoon. Earlier the economy was based on fishing and copra production. Copra is coconut which has been opened and dried. The area is also known for black pearls which occurred naturally in the area but later a technique of. read more...


13/04/2017

Lexington - 4/12/17. Fakarava

We had a full day in Fakarava. I went to a dive shop early in the morning. I left the boat at about 7:15 to find the dive shop and arrange some diving. They had a dive arranged for 8 a.m. I quickly got things done and took the dinghy back to the boat so everyone else would have transportation while I was diving. The dive boat came by the boat to pick me up.I had originally been certified for open water diving way back in 1986. I had not done any diving for several years. We went on two dives. One was along a reef on the outside of the atoll and the other was in the channel during slack or near slack current. I was somewhat rusty. One of the dive masters was very kind and gave me personal attention. There were 4 other divers but they were all very experienced and had been diving with. read more...


12/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 11. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Airconditioningen var på i natt. Det var svært stille, og vindfangerne gjorde nok jobben sin, men når der er over 30 grader i sjøen, sier det seg selv at nattetemperaturen ikke synker så veldig.I dag har vi gitt vann til noen sveitsere. De har tømt den ene tanken vår nå, og har begynt på den neste. Vi må nok produsere nytt igjen, for det går mye vann. Tor og Terje har gått inn med dinghyen for å handle. Vi ble om bord for å steke ferdig et grovbrød, og blogge litt videre. Forskjellige omstendigheter gjør at bloggen ikke alltid kommer ut med en gang.Etter lunsj ombord, gikk vi i land og syklet. Terje hadde leid fire sykler uten gir, og vi dro først til et perleutsalg. Deretter gikk turen til en perlefarm om lag 8km sørover. Vi hadde ikke bestilt noe, men ble mottatt likevel. Fikk se. read more...


12/04/2017

Misto - Day 94: Phenomenal diving and snorkelling

Today Howard did a drift dive through the Passe Tamakohua in the south of Fakarava and Ros drift snorkeled in the pass with the dinghy. Howard was joined by Joe from Altair and Bill from Owl and Barbara and Jeff from Altair joined Ros. The water was crystal clear and it was like swimming in an aquarium.The variety of fish was breathtaking - including some sharks (who seem very content to leave everyone alone) and large grouper-like fish, down to tiny jewel-like fish in an endless variety of colors.Along the sides of the pass were walls of fish- we have both never seen anything like it.Ros enjoyed the snorkeling so much she went three times!-----At 4/9/2017 10:46 PM (utc) our position was 16°29.56'S 145°28.07'W. read more...


12/04/2017

Misto - Days 91-93: Fakarava

We entered through the Northern Passe Garue having about 2.7 knots of current with us and motored to the anchorage off Rotoava, the main village.We dropped the hook with a number of WARC boats in front of the beautiful church.We ate at the Rotoava Grill restaurant that night along with the crew of Sumore and Andrew from Laura Dawn.On Saturday April 8 we took our bikes ashore to explore a little.We encouraged the small jewelry store in the village to open, although she is usually closed on Saturday.The owner is also the jeweler and Ros now has a necklace and bracelet with black pearls to commemorate this visit. We found the Fakarava Yacht Services and Stephanie agreed to arrange a tour of a small pearl farm for that afternoon. It was a very interesting visit, and we learned how they seed. read more...


11/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 10. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Det var en travel nattevakt. Vi fikk en del regnbyger og vind, og kapteinen kom raskt på banen for håndtering av storseilet. Ingen tør å røre det, for sikringen ryker hvis vi trykker på knappen mens det er press på seilet, derfor får han få ordne med det selv!Idet vi krysset innseilingen til Fakarava, ble vi vel mottatt av en stor flokk delfiner som lekte rundt båten. Loggen vår sier at vi ankret opp i landsbyen rundt kl.08. Vi la oss til mellom Atla og Sandvita, begge svenske båter. Eva og Peter på Atla, gikk straks i lettbåten sin og rodde over til oss. Det var stor gjensynsglede! De hadde med seg en pariserloff til oss. Da Sandvita så det, hoppet likeså godt Lasse (eller Lars, som han heter) i sjøen og svømte bort til oss. Deretter fulgte Karl, og til slutt kom også Anne svømmende.. read more...


11/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 9. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Vi holdt avtalen, og denne gangen var det mormoren som stilte med bil. Damene fikk sitte inni, og mennene måtte på lasteplanet. Det var en riktig fin, rød pickup.I kirken ble vi.ønsket velkommen, og alle kom og håndhilste på oss, i alle fall føltes det sånn. Dette var i Mormonkirken vi hadde vært og sett på tidligere, før Edel Marie og Tor kom. Vi ble plassert bakerst, og den unge damen satt ved siden av meg og tolket og forklarte hva som foregikk. Kirken var helt enkel og hvit, og helt uten bilder og symboler. Eneste dekorasjoner var blomsteroppsatser og kranser, ingen kors eller bilder. Bak talerstolen satt «presidentskapet» eller «de eldste» i menigheten. Vi hadde uttrykt at vi kun ønsket å være der en time. Hele arrangementet varte i 3 timer. Første del var presentasjon av opplegget,. read more...


11/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 8. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Vi var tidlig oppe, og så at frukt og grøntbåten allerede lå til kai. Fikk i oss frokost og klargjorde oss for landgang. Meningen var å være med på festen og basaren på kaien. Mens Terje gjorde klar dinghyen i halv åtte tida, hadde godsbåten takket for seg. Vi var for seine! Vi kom oss likevel i land, og ruslet bortover mot flyplassen. Da vi hadde gått rundt den svingen, kom en lastebil met et ektepar imot oss. De stoppet og lurte på hvor vi skulle og om de kunne kjøre oss. Vi skal motsatt vei, sa vi. Hopp opp på planet, så kjører vi dere. Alle fire kom seg oppå, og ble transportert nesten dit godsbåten lå. Vi takket for skyss, og kona fikk seg en klompelompeblomst til håret.Det var allerede fryktelig varmt, og vi tok snarvegen gjennom kirkegården. Det var ikke så lett, så ei nabodame. read more...


11/04/2017

Timshel - En route to Tuamotus

The Tuamotus are atolls where the original central island has completely sunk, leaving the fringing coral reef forming the lagoon.We set off from Ua Pou Tuesday lunchtime, got some wind once clear of the island.Some dolphins came to play.Wednesday rather variable winds - had to gybe several times as found ourselves heading in completely the wrong direction as wind changed, slow progress in light winds, becalmed a couple of times.By daylight Thursday got steadier wind, beam to broad reach and good progress.The morning SSB net has started again - thanks to Misto and Laura Dawn for organising, so we have heard from quite a few boats.Most seem to be on their way to Fakarava, as are we - this island was recommended by local guru Cameron.Apart from Aurora Polaris who seem to have arranged to. read more...


11/04/2017

Timshel - Tuamotus

We sighted land from about 25 miles away, maybe further than expected, visibility must have been good.As expected we saw low lying Palm trees and little islands.We had decided to make for Kauehi which was a bit closer than Fakarava, but even so no amount of calculation would get us there in time to go in that day.Once you are through the pass, you still have to cross 9 miles of lagoon to get to the anchorage on the other side and we were just too late to guarantee to get all the way in daylight.So we looked at the pass, then sailed on slowly, very small headsail only, for half the night then back for the other half.We had calculated (by times of moonrise and set and times given for a nearby island) that slack water at the pass would be 09.30.We actually went through a little early the. read more...


11/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 6: Swimming with the sharks

That's a lot of sharks.. alright not all big ones, mostly a few feet, but a lot!South Fakarava pass today was incredible.We managed 4 drift dives and about 3 hours in the water before we gave in to hunger and fatigue and headed back to the boat for corned beef sandwiches (feeling very British today).We must have seen over a hundred, probably more, mostly in groups and a few mooching about on their own. We did a shallow drift on the edge of the reef as well as the deep pass drifts, towing the dinghy with us like some sort of strange inflatable pet on its leash, and it was like an aquarium, amazing and full of fish everywhere, as well as bright and abundant corals. I can see why its known for its snorkeling, so grateful to be here and enjoying this amazing place, although thinking a nap. read more...


10/04/2017

Lexington - 4/10/17. Kauehi atoll

We are still anchored in Kauehi atoll just outside the village. We have been relatively lazy just enjoying the environment.Yesterday I got out my new hookah equipment. I bought a unit for the trip. Hookah is a name for surface based diving with some sort of compressor on a boat or floating on an inner tube. Since it was brand new it took a little time to get it set up. I wanted to make sure it seemed to work well. Everything went well in the setup and the little gas powered engine started easily.I am a certified scuba diver so I am not going off too half cocked. We tied the floating compressor to the boat at first. Everything seemed to be working well but I wanted a little more experience so I went over to an ARC boat that had arrived yesterday morning. They had mentioned that they. read more...


09/04/2017

Laura Dawn - French Polynesia Log 5: Tuamotos

Wow, what an opposite to the high peaks and ridges of the Marquesas.We arrived in Fakarava in the Tuamotos early on Thursday morning and came through the north pass in about 15 knots of wind and a slight ingoing current.The pass was a bit like Poole Harbour entrance on a choppy day, but we were through in no time and headed to the village to anchor, minding the coral heads that pop up along the way.The island is on coral and is just a few hundred feet wide strip lying in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, rising to the height of a palm tree.The atoll itself is miles long and a concrete road can take you down about 6 miles of it, creating a huge lagoon, and it seems crazy that so many people live here going about everyday life: I wasn't expecting cars, or an airstrip!Walking through from. read more...


Misto - View from our anchorage on Fakarava
Misto - View from our anchorage on Fakarava
Misto - Ancient tikis on Nuku Hiva
Misto - Ancient tikis on Nuku Hiva
Misto - Petroglyphs on Nuku Hiva
Misto - Petroglyphs on Nuku Hiva
Misto - Beautiful Nuku Hiva
Misto - Beautiful Nuku Hiva
08/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 7. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Vi sov sånn passe godt i natt! Hadde hengt opp wind-scoop på taklukene for ikke å kjøre aircondition hele natta. Jeg påstod at der ikke kom inn luft i det hele tatt, og måtte til slutt legge hodet mitt rett under takluka. Etter det må jeg ha sovnet, men vi var begge våkne flere ganger i løpet av natta, for det var varmt! Gjestene våre klarte seg veldig bra. De klaget i alle fall ikke!Etter frokost ble vi sittende lenge. Plutselig oppdaget Tor noe inne ved stranda. Hva er det som svømmer der? Det er vel noen fugler. Terje tok kikkerten. «Det er hai! GÅ AN!» Ingen trodde noe på det, for det er slik han holder på. Etter hvert måtte vi få låne kikkerten. Jovisst! Ikke bare en, men en hel familie! Og akkurat der vi hadde gått i land med dinghyen!Tor og Edel har vært uti og badet begge to, og. read more...


08/04/2017

Aurora Polaris - 6. April 2017 - World ARC 2017-2018

Vi var på flyplassen kl.8.30. Da var det allerede mye folk samlet. Ikke lenge etter, startet brannbilen opp, luftet kanonen sin litt for å se om den virket, kjørte litt rundt, for så å komme tilbake for å parkere igjen. Jeg begynte å gjøre meg klar med kamera, for de hadde nevnt at flyet kunne komme rundt 9. Ingenting skjedde! En mann kom bort til oss og håndhilste. Han lurte på om vi hadde kjøpt billett, men vi svarte at vi skulle hente noen som kom med flyet. Så kom brannmannen og hilste på oss. Han skulle fortelle oss noe, men siden vi ikke snakket fransk, måtte han hente tolk. Tolken viste seg å være «naboen» vår i bukta vi ligger oppankret. Han hadde gravet ut ei lita strand til seg og familien, og det var der vi hadde funnet ut at det var fint å gå inn med dinghyen og dra den på. read more...


07/04/2017

Timshel - En route to Tuamotus

The Tuamotus are atolls where the original central island has completely sunk, leaving the fringing coral reef forming the lagoon.We set off from Ua Pou Tuesday lunchtime, got some wind once clear of the island.Some dolphins came to play.Wednesday rather variable winds - had to gybe several times as found ourselves heading in completely the wrong direction as wind changed, slow progress in light winds, becalmed a couple of times.By daylight Thursday got steadier wind, beam to broad reach and good progress.The morning SSB net has started again - thanks to Misto and Laura Dawn for organising, so we have heard from quite a few boats.Most seem to be on their way to Fakarava, as are we - this island was recommended by local guru Cameron.Apart from Aurora Polaris who seem to have arranged to. read more...