can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Misto - Days 72-77: The fish that got away, Hiva Oa and onward



I suddenly realized yesterday (March 24) that I had not posted a blog for days and certainly not since we arrived in Hiva Oa.

The last few days of the passage were uneventful in most respects except for the fish! We caught a really good size Mahi which jumped the hook as we were trying to gaff it at the steps. It was very disappointing. Then, just after we had put a complete new reel of line on the rod we caught something small. Howard was reeling it in when a huge bill fish leapt out of the water and gobbled up whatever was on the line, lure and all and made off with our complete new line, which snapped once it had all been pulled off the reel. The size of this fish was enormous - probably 6-8' long.

The winds were somewhat variable and we completed the trip with the main and gnenaker up, mostly wing on wing. We arrived just after dawn on March 21, twenty days after setting out from the Galapagos. It was a long passage without doubt and we were all happy to have arrived safely.

The Marquesas rise dramatically out of the sea with sheer cliffs densely covered in green vegetation, due to the high rainfall - which we were to experience. The anchorage is small and everyone had to anchor with bow and stern anchors and it was still a bit rolly at times. The locals greeted us with flower lais and fruit drinks. The French Polynesians and very friendly and always smiling. We went into Atuona, bought a local SIM card and found the bank and shops.

The first evening we attended a briefing at the Hanakee Pearl Lodge on the islands by Cameron and Cibele which gave us an excellent overview of the islands and suggested anchorages to make the most of our time here. We stayed for happy hour and dinner. The wi fi is slow and iffy when lots of folks are trying to do their e mail.

The next day we went back into Atuona and visited the cemetery where Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel are both buried. The walk up the hill afforded a stunning view of the bay and nearby islands. We experienced the rain for which the Marquesas are known, and visited the Gauguin museum in the afternoon. This was well worth the visit with a huge exhibition of reproduction paintings. In the evening we returned to the Hanakee Pearl Lodge and enjoyed a Marquesan dinner and entertainment with dancers.

On March 21 we joined with The crew of Sumore and Andrew from Laura Dawn and took a taxi tour to see the Tikis at Ipona. Unfortunately it rained, and rained and rained. The roads were terrible and we were pleased we had not rented a car to drive ourselves. However despite the weather we were treated to wonderful vistas and views of the north coast of Hiva Oa and finally the Tikis. Unfortunately most of the Tiki statues were destroyed when Catholicism was brought to the islands, but one remains at Ipona which is the largest in French Polynesia. The site is impressive and has a slightly eerie atmosphere, nesting as it does at the base of a cliff.

On March 22 we completed provisioning and caught up on some maintenance on the engines and generator and motored about 10 mm over to the island of Tahuata Bay Hanamoenoa which is rated as one of the tree most beautiful anchorages in Polynesia. The palm fringed beach and peaceful nature of the area probably deserve this reputation. Here we cleaned the waterline, which was filthy from the passage, and repaired a fitting on the rigging cross trees.





Previous | Next