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Misto - Days 186-188 July 12-14: Volcano, gift giving and the Holy Hill



Mount Yasur is billed as the world's most accessible volcano. The adventure starts with a 4 wheel drive in pick-up trucks across very rough tracks through the bush. Regrettably, it was drizzling and trying to rain so those in the back of the truck got wet! We crossed expansive, impressive ash plains. According to the available guide books and experiences of past visitors it would be an unsupervised walk up to the crater rim. However Vanuatu is starting to try and develop itself as a tourist destination and so it is being "developed". There was a short display of dancing and kava giving, however for me it lacked authenticity. One aspect of the development which was welcome was the provision large yellow raincoats.

We drove further up the mountain and then walked up a steep, concreted path. The black ash underfoot clearly indicated where we were. The development of this tourist site means that you can no longer get right to the crater edge and initially I was sorely disappointed, however we were allowed further along the crater rim to a much better vantage point and here the raw power and energy of Mount Yasur was clear. The noise and vibration as eruptions took place was unexpected in their power. As dusk fell the eruptions seemed to increase in frequency and strength and a pyrotechnic display of magma being hurled through the air made for the most impressive firework display. We arrived back in Port Resolution wet and chilly but awed by this natural phenomenon.

A number of us had booked at the White Beach restaurant for dinner. "Restaurant" is a word that takes on a different meaning in Vanuatu and this is really just an opportunity to sample the way that local food is prepared. About a dozen of us gathered in this simple open sided structure around a plank table covered with gaily printed cloth on benches and plastic garden chairs. If the setting was simple, the food, prepared under what most of us would consider very difficult circumstances was excellent. Huge platters of fried fish, chicken curry and multiple different local vegetables weighed down the table and were consumed with relish and enjoyment.

The following day we all gathered to present the gifts that we had brought to the village. World Cruising Club support the village at Port Resolution with a number of projects each year. In the morning we took gifts to the school, were moved by the singing of the students and heard about the Principal's vision to expand to also be a secondary (or high) school. Later we had the gift giving ceremony for the village and we donated a wheel barrow, 3 shovels, a small tent and some flip flops - all items that had been requested by the village. The total gift pile was extremely impressive and all the boats deserve heartfelt thanks for their generosity. The ceremony included wonderfully powerful dancing that seems to make the earth shake, some speeches, more singing from the children and an exchange of kava. This was most certainly an authentic experience that gave a glimpse into the local culture and Kustom.

On Friday we had arranged a tour with Philemon. We walked up steep paths to reach his village and learned that he is the chief and that under his guidance this village makes available land for people all around to cultivate gardens and grow fruit and vegetables. He told us that we were walking up the Holy Hill to the village where much of local Kustom originates for this island. He also shared that his great great grandfather met Captain Cook and showed us some old muskets he was given. We toured the local vegetable gardens with his sister and enjoyed another local feast of food for lunch. The return was partly on horseback. Howard's horse had a saddle and Ros rode back back. The path is rather steep in places and so it was a little hair raising here and there. All in all this was another great opportunity to understand more about the local way of life and Kustom which in central to history and culture.


Regards

Ros



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