Saying goodbye to Hiva Oa yesterday was just in the nick of time as we motored out ahead of a large squall which soaked the island behind us. Heading for the sunshine and blue skies, we were excited to see Fatu Hiva, the only island in the Marquesas that was on Elaine's wishlist to see.
Having read articles about it in sailing magazines and having it quoted in Essential Sailing Destinations: "Hanavave on Fatu Hiva, with its towering rock formations, is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful bays in the world", was a sight worthy of another beat to windward, in high swells, burning precious diesel because the wind was light and in the wrong direction, as far as Elaine was concerned.
Well, beauty is most definitely in the eye of the beholder. We arrived in torrential rain with a carpet of mud and debris creeping off the shore to meet us in the anchorage. An anchorage that, after nearly two hours and with daylight fading, we eventually found holding that was shallow enough for our 100m / 400ft of chain and not on a rocky bottom. After motoring all day, we now have to spend the night on anchor watch to ensure Paw Paw does not swing too close to the rocks on our starboard side. Lets hope tomorrow reveals the Bay of Virgins in a far better light, otherwise we'll be high-tailing it out of here first thing in the morning.!