can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Free & BrEasy - Pipoca



We have experienced the biggest possible transition known to mankind. From our lonely 17 day crossing of the Atlantic from St Helena, we have suddenly been immersed in the world’s biggest street party. Two million people dance on the streets for 5 days and 5 nights at the Salvador Carnival and we were part of it!
We arrived at Terminal Nautico de Bahia Marina, Salvador, last Wednesday late in the afternoon. Approaching mainland Brazil from a distance, we were amazed to see a ‘New York’ style skyline of skyscrapers and block of flats. As we came nearer, bronzed bodies could be imagined, roasting themselves on the beaches under beach umbrellas. Coming into the anchorage we first took on diesel from a floating barge moored close to the Forte de Sao Marcelo, a round sea fort built by the Portuguese to keep other thieving Europeans off ‘their’ Brazil. We moored ‘Med Style’ stern-to (we always get a bit nervous doing this!) with the help of Suzanna, Joel and Johnny from the World ARC. We also received very welcome help from the crews of Nexus and Avocet. Thanks Guys! Johnny quickly appeared balancing drinks on a silver salver and we basked in the welcome on the pontoon, feeling our sea legs resisting the idea of stable ground beneath our feet, after so long at sea – or was that the rum? We were the last boat to arrive so it was with a degree of relief and big smiles all round, that we were given our certificates for crossing the Atlantic. That’s a big tick for the three Oceans! Suzanna quickly and efficiently arranged for our Customs and Immigration clearances to be processed the next day and we were free to explore!
The Marina is part of the old port and ferry terminal. All around us there were traditional wooden sailboats painted in bright greens, reds, yellows and blue which made our white fibreglass look dowdy! They needed no engine and simply poled themselves into the births around us. Cooking was on a charcoal burner perched on the stern. These boats are famously very fast and easily driven by their large gaff-rigged sail. The ferry terminal by the Marina, was very busy and on our trip to the first excruciatingly wonderful shower after over two weeks, it was necessary to thread our way through the happy holiday crowds waiting for the next ferry. Around the port was a strange collection of old traditional buildings and modern blocks, many of which were disused and looked as though waiting for demolition. Towering above us was the Elvador Lacerda, a tower containing high speed lifts to take us 150 feet from the port level to the Centro Historico, (the Old City). We had been warned to use this elevator to avoid walking about the streets and the potential danger from robbers in the port area. However, like in so many other places, the main danger was from being run down by the constant flow of motorcycles, cars and buses speeding past the Marina.
The Centro Historico is charming mixture of old houses, municipal buildings and churches, set in squares with cobbled streets leading off in every direction, asking to be explored. The next day we were soon established in Cuco Bistro just off the main square (Terrerio de Jesus), which rapidly became HQ for the World ARC crews. There we were able to do the two most important tasks when arriving in port, after clearances from the authorities, emailing and skyping friends and family. Valentine’s day was coming up fast! Outside the Bistro, there were six giant female statues dressed in traditional white flowing dresses and head gear. The street was wonderfully decorated with a ‘ceiling’ of white ribbons and every little alleyway we explored was similarly beautifully decorated with ribbon ceilings and effigies, for the carnival. The World ARC prize winning was held in the same Bistro and was a boisterous celebration of the Atlantic crossing. Particularly pleasing was the first prize to Merlyn of Poole although we will have to withdraw their ‘slow boat’ status!
The next day the Carnival started! The Centro Historic became a chaotic procession of dancers, drummers and brass bands. The traditional Carnival parades around the Cicuito Batatinha through the old town which echoes to the deafening beat of hundreds of drums and a cacophony of brass instruments. There appeared to be little organisation (to us!) and groups of dancers and bands seemed to peel off the main square to go down narrow streets only to reappear again in the main square, and so on. If you wanted to dance, you just joined in! If you had brought a trumpet or drum, they would have welcomed your contribution! We walked around and stumbled on a stage set up in the Largo do Pelourinho where a 10 piece samba orchestra was accompanying female singers who were belting out traditional songs much to the delight of the dancing crowd. Every so often a group of dancers and accompanying band would force a way through the crowd on their way back to the main square. The battle of mass drums against amplified watts!
We had been warned not to carry with us any valuable items or large amounts of cash and the dangers from pick pockets in such crowds, were obvious. Unfortunately, some of the World ARC crews were targeted but it was difficult for us not to stand out as Europeans. The motto to adopt was ‘If you don’t carry anything, you have nothing to lose!’ There was a very large civil and military police presence. Small platoons of truncheon carrying, armed, helmeted police continually walked through the crowds. At first we felt more secure with this police presence but after witnessing that the truncheons were not just for decoration, we learnt to give them a wide berth!
The second of the three carnival circuits was the Ciruito Osmar based around the Campo Grande park. Osmar was coinventor of the Trio Electrico, an articulated lorry carrying a large band of several drums, electric guitars, singers and dancers, plus a generator sufficient to power a small village and achieve an amplified output of several thousand watts! In close proximity, the music output was not just deafening, it vibrated every organ in the body and was painful! About a dozen of these enormous beast crawled their way through the crowded streets on the Ciruito Osmar. There are three ways to enjoy this wonderful barrage of samba music. The safe way (and most expensive) is to buy a ticket for one of the stands (called Camarotes or Blocos) where you can dance in safety and drink as much as you can. The second way is to dance Abadas in the street in front or behind the Trio Electrico, protected by a rope cordon placed around the booming trucks and kept in place with the moving truck by straining officials. From a distance the trucks took the form of huge dragons belching pounding watts of music, pulled or pushed by a dancing crowd wearing the same T shirt, and carolled by rope, from the street crowds. To dance Abadas you simply buy entry (the T-shirt!) and you are allowed under the rope where there is also, surprise,surprise, unlimited drink!
The last way is free and that is to take the risks inherent in large crowds, and dance Pipoca. This is Brazilian for popcorn and is the effect observed in a large crowd when a Tri Electrico approaches and suddenly infects the crowd with its pumping beat. Everybody waves their hand in the air jumping up and down and from a distance, its pop corn jumping in a pan!
Needless to say, Marco and Michael have been enjoying the carnival the Pipoca way. It’s been fun but a little stressful. Part of you is always watching out for the patrol of military police since they readily lash out with their truncheons at the slightest confrontation – we have seen them! In the many dangers of circumnavigation nobody mentioned dancing Pipoca in the Salvidor Carnival but it’s got to be the worst! Circuito Dodo next Log!


Previous | Next