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Exody - Days 303-309: Big 3, Celtic Connections and Poo Spitting !



Our final run in to Richard's Bay was 'downhill' across the Agulhas current- up to 2 knots with us and up to 30 degrees sideways course offset. Maintaining sail until close in to the busy industrial port, we motored between the breakwaters just ahead of a vast cargo ship on our tail. We were welcomed by World ARC/Yacht Club dinghy to negotiate the unmarked channel in and later enjoyed the presented bottle of South African bubbly.

Just 48 hours after this arrival on the afternoon of Monday 9th, we had seen at close quarters three of the 'big 5'- elephant, rhino and buffalo. Plus giraffe, wildebeest, warthog, zebra, hippo, crocodile and several members of the surprisingly diverse antelope family (Kudu, Impala etc- fast food for lions!). Our one hour journey north firstly to the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, the oldest game reserve dating from 1895, and the next day to the iSimangaliso Wetlands took us through the hinterland of Richards Bay. The excellent roads passing vast forested cultivation of pencil thin trees, interspersed with quite spread out townships. We learnt that the characteristic Zulu round houses adjacent to the main house were for communing with ancestors. The drought-dry beauty of the park landscapes contrasted with the ubiquitous spread of rubbish surrounding the human habitation!

We drove in safari type vehicles, stopping whenever anything was sighted by us or Bertie our guide. Some of the best close up views were from a manmade hide near a solar powered pumped water hole. A boat trip on Lake St Lucia took us to where the hippo families slept and the crocs lurked.

Immersed in these archetypal images of South Africa, we have happily spent the time since just pottering - drying out the boat, doing laundry, getting stocks in, repairing our bent cooker and a miscellany of minor tasks. Readying ourselves for the 900 miles of free cruising south to Cape Town over the coming month.

The Zululand Yacht Club reminds us of TTYA- Trinidad and Tobago Yachting Association - where I lived on board in the early 80's - same mix of dinghies and cruisers, club facilities etc. The exchange rate for the rand means beers here are 75p, an evening meal £3.50 and a bottle of wine the same. So its barely worth the effort to eat and drink on board!

Friday 13th there was a special welcome event put on by this busy Club. We were treated to some genuine adrenalin-building Zulu dancing, a fine meal including stewed wildebeest and to top it all superb live music from black + white Zulu duo led by Qadasi (aka David Jenkins) whose folk music on guitar and voice, noted to have Irish and Scottish influences, took us straight back to the annual Celtic Connections in Glasgow. There was much dancing!

The evening finished for those well-oiled enough to participate with the unforgettable poo-spitting competition! Roll a small pea-sized pellet of dried Impala poo behind your tongue and expel/project as far as you can. Prizes were awarded to us 'internationals' only with Ayama picking up the men's and Wayward Wind the women's award!


The weather is certainly reminiscent of home - overcast and raining today, Sunday 15th. Poor visibility and strong south westerlies on the way. Down to 22 degrees and long unused clothing is being excavated! But the wildlife will be happy and the dry game parks greener.

Peter (Skipper)

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