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Smoke and Roses - Swimming with Manta Rays



June 16 -25 Taveuni to Viti Levu

Engine repairs have been planned at Vuda Marina since May 4, on the main island of Fiji called Viti Levu, we are anxious to get things fixed. Leaving Taveuni we had two nice sailing days and two days motoring thru reefs with lots of current along the north coast. The first day we stopped at Makogai Island which is state owned and currently used as a department of fisheries clam hatchery and turtle head start program. The island was previously a large leprosarium serving the region. Significand and ancient in Fiji, the “Sevusevu” is a ritual where visitors seek acceptance into a village by presenting the chief with Kava and other gifts. Along with Jojo’s Circus crew we attended an informal “Sevusevu” on Makogai. Then the headsman gave us a short tour. The anchorage was nice and calm but there was something eerie about the place.

The next few nights we anchored out and never got off the boat until we reached Vuda Marina. One morning Dan found a bolt broken on the alternator bracket and a corroded battery ground cable. He had to fix these before we could leave. Our list of parts and repairs for Fiji was long, some of the smaller things included webbing for a sail, bolts, belts and tubing to bigger things like a new inverter/charger and engine repair. Jojo’s Circus was getting hauled out to have both rudders rebuilt and an engine repaired. They will be staying at a resort in Denarau. Anchoring just outside the marina entrance we spent the next few days checking prices and schedules for parts and repairs as well as finding places for groceries. produce and meats.

My birthday was June 23rd and some time ago I had told Dan I would like to celebrate it on a remote, exotic island. It was the weekend and no repairs would get done so we headed for the “Yasawas”, a group of volcanic islands on the western side of Fiji. These islands are more difficult to reach and less developed than other tourist areas of Fiji. After searching for nearly two hours we found the perfect secluded anchorage in Cuvu Bay, near the channel between Nanuya Balavu and Drawaqu. Manta Rays Patrol this channel to feed and for the cleaning stations. The next morning we carefully maneuvered the dinghy thru the reef to get ashore and talked with Rob at the Barefoot Island Resort Dive shop. He told us how they were replanting coral in an effort to replenish the reef in front of the resort. We snorkeled the reef that morning, it was very beautiful, and one of the most vibrant living reefs we have seen. Before going back to the boat to do some chores we walked the beach and round the rugged, rocky northern shore. An hour before high tide that afternoon we went to the pass to snorkel with the manta rays. When we saw a wing tip on the surface one of us would get in the water and swim alongside or behind the large graceful rays. We did this for a couple of hours, it was amazing. The rays had a wing span of six to seven feet and they did not mind us swimming with them. There were several tour boats full of snorkelers that came and went, we kept some distance from them as there were plenty of rays to see. My birthday cake was made with fresh pineapple and coconut…it was a great day!

The next day we headed south to Waya Island and found the water was much deeper in most places than what our charts showed. With its many high peaks, rugged coast and sandy beaches, Waya Island was one of the most beautiful. We anchored out from the Octopus Resort in some of the clearest water we have seen. While ashore we walked a path behind the resort to the top of a hill with views of the bays on both sides. The entire path had concrete steps all the way up the steep hill. That afternoon while cleaning the boat bottom, Dan decided we should check on getting the boat hauled out of the water, keels repaired and new bottom paint. Our maintenance and repair list just got a lot longer. So we headed back to Vuda Marina the next day.

Agnes Long


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