can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Smoke and Roses - Active Volcano, Cave of Skulls and Blue Lagoon



7-7 Malolo Lailai, Fiji to Tanna, Vanuatu Log 490 Nautical Miles

59.75 Hours Sailing 11.5 Hours Motoring

7-13 Tanna to Erromango Log 61 Nautical Miles

5 Hours Sailing 5 Hours Motoring

7-14 Erromango to Efate Log 84 Nautical Miles 14

 Hours Sailing 2.5 Hours Motoring

July 7 – 19           

Musket Cove, Fiji to Tanna, Erramango and Efate, Vanuatu

Vanuatu is a spectacular environment with tropical islands, active volcanoes, coral reefs and jungle wilderness. During our nine day cruise in Vanuatu we visited three very different islands, Tanna, Erromango and Efate. The three day passage from Fiji to Vanuatu started with lots of wind the first half and light wind by the end. The air was cool and skies were mostly sunny with no storms. We sailed most of the time and tired flying our secondary light wind spinnaker for a while but found it was just too small to be very effective. With Claudia helping crew, it made for an easy trip.

There were interesting World ARC events scheduled each of our three days in Tanna, starting July 10th with a tour of Kastom Village. We toured the school, village and a beautiful park with palm trees and white sandy beach. The people were indifferent at first but very friendly when engaged. With very basic supplies and holes in the roof, the school was a reflection of how poor the village is.

The next day we toured Mount Yasur, a continually active volcano. Unlike the United States, there were few safety precautions. There was a long steep climb to two different levels on the ash covered mountain. We stood right on the rim watching as the explosions happened. The wind was cold and loud, we could feel the earth’s booming percussion reverberating under our feet. It was amazing to watch the molten lava spirt up from the fiery interior, as well as the smoke and dust that circulated the opening.

A visit to the school, the village welcome and gift exchange as well as an evening feast all took place on our last day in Tanna. During the school visit, the students sang for us and we handed out some supplies. Dan was delighted to see the children’s smiles when he passed out troll topped pencils. The village gift exchange started with a ritual and dance, next we were all presented with hand woven hats and lays, and then the gift exchange began. The village presented us with large baskets of fruits, vegetables and handmade handbags. As a group, we gave everything from school supplies, clothing, fishing gear and more. Our plates for the feast were large leaves supported with a woven basket. It is always interesting to try the local food. We were sad to see JoJo’s Circus leave the fleet today as they were a bright spot in our cruise. We look forward to meeting up with them again in Florida.

With an early morning departure we arrived in Dillions Bay on Erromango Island, the third largest in the archipelago of Vanuatu, by midafternoon. Dan had a fun time going lobster diving at night with some locals but no lobsters. After dinner we all had a nice time celebrating Hailey’s birthday on “Cayuse”. In the morning the locals took us in their boat for a tour of the Cave of Skulls. Due to the low tide, we had to walk across the reef to get to shore. Trying to walk in the sand and not on the coral, I got a small coral abrasion on my calf; I didn’t even realize it at the time. Once ashore our guide told us of Erromango’s dark history with cannibalism and of a white missionary John Williams that was killed and eaten. After asking the spirits for permission, we entered a cave with a steep dirt entrance. There were a few stacks of bones piled in places but when you looked close, you could see bones in the ground and everywhere. Nearby we scaled a steep wall gripping the roots of a banyan tree to an opening where the chief and his family’s skulls and bones were kept. The villagers provided all of us with a huge feast for lunch and a tour of a Yacht Club. Dan and Claudia had a great time snorkeling that afternoon, they speared some lionfish. We left before dinner for Port Vila on Efate Island.

We spent four nights in Port Vila docked at Yachting World Marina. One day we rented a car and Dan, I, Claudia and Paul rode around the island. The highlight was the “Blue Lagoon”. The water of the lagoon had amazing shades of blue and was surrounded with tropical vegetation. Another interesting stop was when we started to run low on fuel. A local man told us to turn left at the mango tree in the village for fuel. Claudia spotted a small blue handwritten sign on a tree and we pulled into someone’s yard. A man came with his two daughters and filled a jug with fuel from his shed then funneled it into our vehicle. By far this was the most unique gas station we have ever been to.

Provisioning for the 1050 nautical mile passage to Australia was more challenging due to the food restrictions. Some of the foods not allowed when entering Australia included’ eggs, Dairy products, fresh fruit or vegetables, nuts or seeds, and most meats unless commercially packaged from select countries. This meant having just enough food for the week long trip. During our walk to the grocery store we met a doctor named Jerry form Australia who was cruising with his family on sailing vessel “Three Little Birds”. Dan was not feeling well from some coral abrasions on his ankle that happened while lobster diving. He had already talked with his doctor’s office in the States who recommended treatment. Jerry confirmed the treatment. The grocery selection was more familiar than we had seen in most places but very expensive.

The World ARC prize giving dinner was at the Waterfront Restaurant just down the dock from our boat. Smoke and Roses took second place on Leg 6 and to our surprise we also received the Spirit Award. This was for always offering to lend a hand as well as making fun of a ridiculous challenge to fly a colored sail in 30 knots of wind between two reefs at the start of the leg. While some boats groused about this we used a hatch wind scoop (about 3’ by 6’) and attached it to the front of our boat like a spinnaker, as a fun joke.

The last day in Port Vila was busy with clearances, route planning and skippers briefing but I did not attend any of the meetings as I was not well and went back to bed. I was shaking and had bad chills, when Claudia showed up I told her to get Jerry form sailing vessels “Three Little Birds” in the anchorage near “Cayuse”. Dan came back also and brought Jerry to our boat. My right knee was swollen the size of a grapefruit and I had a fever. I had infectious bursitis in my knee from a small coral poke on my calf. Jerry recommended an antibiotic and keeping my knee wrapped. Dan convinced Claudia the two of them could sail the boat. I could not eat; I just slept for several days. We left at the start with the fleet while Dan and Claudia kept watches.


Agnes Long


Previous | Next