South Atlantic Adventures and a Colourful Welcome to Brazil

12 February 2016

Just over a month ago, 13 yachts of the World ARC 2015-16 fleet left Cape Town for the longest passage of their circumnavigation to Salvador, Brazil, a total distance of approximately 3637 NM. This leg included a 72 hour stopover to visit the South Atlantic island of St Helena before continuing on their ocean crossing to reach Salvador in time for the world famous carnival.

The first yachts arrived after on St Helena following 10 days of sailing approximately 1700 NM from Cape Town, experiencing some strong winds and rough seas at the start of the leg followed by consistent wind propelling them to the stopover. The stop in St Helena is the only port on the World ARC route where yachts are not welcomed by a World Cruising Club representative as Rally Control as the island currently does not have an airport to receive flights. So, on arrival boats picked up mooring buoys assigned by the Harbour Master who welcomed them by VHF as they reached the island’s capital Jamestown. After completing the check in formalities, the crew were free to enjoy different activities starting by getting ashore by water taxi. To land in St Helena you have to catch a rope hanging over the dock - this can be particularly an exercise in case of big swell coming into the bay but participants reported that it all went well on most occasions. Once ashore they could walk around Jamestown where Manfred from Tulasi affectionately described the isolated town as looking like the time had stopped for the last 100 years.

One of the main attractions in St Helena is their most famous resident Napoleon who died there on 5th May 1821. On the World ARC tour organized by Tracey and Commodore Phill from the St Helena Yacht Club, participants got the opportunity to visit the tomb and house of Napoleon as well as the Governor’s House to meet the giant tortoises. Other activities included climbing Jacob’s Ladder – a steep staircase of 699 steps to reach the viewpoint looking out over the bay.

St Helena also offers one of the best snorkelling experiences in the world. At this time of the year, the seas around the island are populated with whale sharks, and some participants organized a snorkelling trip to swim alongside these magnificent creatures. Sarah from Makena reported that it was, “an awesome world class experience for only 20 sterling each. Unreal. Loved it

Finally before departing for another 1900 NM heading towards Brazil participants got together ashore for a curry night as well as a braii dinner, enjoying the party too much that some participants missed the last water taxi and stayed ashore for the night at the hotel.

The first yachts started to leave the island on 19 January to head across the South Atlantic Ocean. Unfortunately relatively light winds made for a slow crossing with between 15 to 18 knots from the east providing dead downwind sailing slowing down most of the fleet. Light winds do have their advantages for cruising sailors and the fleet enjoyed the passage, considering it as one of the easiest passages since they left from the Caribbean just over a year ago. It also gave the opportunity for Luc and Sarah on Makena to fly their quadcopter in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean, filming fellow World ARC boat Hugur and returning safely to land on deck of Makena. John and Joyce on Starblazer enjoyed good fishing, catching a 1.5m wahou and giving time for Joyce to sow a brand new Union Jack flag made of 40 pieces.

After 11 days at sea, Hugur, the first World ARC yacht arrived during the night of 31 January, followed by GarliX who arrived on time to celebrate Jens’s birthday, Tulasi, and Makena who also arrived for Sarah’s birthday.

Waiting for the rest of the fleet to arrive, the city of Salvador was slowly changing face and getting ready for the carnival. Stages were going up everywhere, the shops were protecting themselves with wooden planks from the hordes of revellers, and bands were repeating their song at every corner of the streets around the city. This year was even more musical in celebration of 100 years of Samba.

With boats still arriving in Salvador, the programme began with a cruising briefing on how to sail the east Brazilian coast from Salvador to Fortaleza focusing on stops in Recife, Natal and Fernando de Noronha. The briefing was given by Eduardo Leoni who sailed on his own boat around the Brazilian coast for the last 20 years and who is the Communications Director of the Sailing Association of Salvador de Bahia.

On the same day as the finish line was closed, participants enjoyed the local food “Acaraje” served by a Bahiana wearing traditional dress from Salvador as well as a capoeira show and some typical caipirinhas for the prize giving ceremony of Leg 15 Cape Town to Salvador.

The first place was taken by Peter, Marian and David on Exody sailing with a corrected time of 24 days 14 hours 01 min and 41 seconds but most impressively they logged only 17.5 engine hours on a 3660.1NM trip. Second place went for the crew of Aretha and third place to Kristofer and Svanfridur on Hugur. Makena took first place for the Multihull Division.

Finally to complete the programme, the next morning participants went on an organised World ARC tour going up the elevator and following the guide to walk around the ancient city of Pelourinho, visiting the Church of Sao Francisco, and venturing all the way down to the 2014 World Cup stadium of Itapavai and the Lac of Dique Tororo. The bus took then returned to the North of city to the famous Basilica of Bonfim and visiting a viewpoint looking out over the bay from Forte Monte Serrat.

Most participants are remaining in Salvador to enjoy the dancing, singing and atmosphere of the most popular carnival in Brazil. Ornate floats and wagons follow different circuits across the city either in Barra, Pelourinho or Ondina. The World ARC fleet then have time to enjoy a free cruising period taking them up the coast to Fortaleza.

Some boats will stay longer in Salvador whilst others will explore the bay of Salvador or sail up to Fernando de Noronha located 672 NM North of Salvador before the rendez-vous on 1 March in Fortaleza for the penultimate leg of World ARC 2015-16 to Granada.