Misto - Days 181-185 July 7-11: Destination Vanuatu

We departed Musket Cove in July 8 leaving a number of the fleet behind who have decided that Fiji is their stopping point for now. We had a rip-roaring sail to Vanuatu. It was mainly a beam reach in 15-25 knots of wind. Unfortunately the seas were very confused and it got worse during the trip. We were shipping water right over the trampoline and up over the coach roof by the last afternoon when we put a reef in the main and jib. The passage was so fast that, along with a number of other boats, we made a night entry into Port Resolution on Tanna. We followed the way points we had been given as the navionics charts had absolutely zero detail of where we were going!

Customs and immigration formalities the next day took place in the "Yacht Club" a rustic open-sided wooden structure festooned with the burgees of past visitors. A "bank" had been set up in one corner where we could change cash into the local Vatu currency.

That afternoon we were given a tour of the local village. Most of the buildings are constructed of local materials. The people are smiling and friendly and were happy to talk a little. As it was Tuesday the ladies had gathered and were selling food that they had cooked, and we sampled some: doughnut- like buns, yam pancakes and manioc rolled in a huge cabbage-like leaf.

On the beach a dug-out canoe was being hollowed-out from the trunk of a bread fruit tree, which is particularly light. In the mornings we see the canoes, now equipped with primitive out-riggers, being used for fishing, right next to all the anchored boats.

Clearly we have arrived in a very different world. The history of Vanuatu is an interesting one and worth researching a little. It is the only country we know of that was ruled jointly by Britain and France, when it was known as the New Hebrides. The result is that some people are francophones and some anglophone, speaking one of those languages well in addition to local dialects. Cannibalism was a way of life and the last recorded incident of this was as recent as 1969. Christianity is now the main religion although Kustom (custom) beliefs are still prevalent, especially on the outer islands.

Tanna's claim to fame is an active volcano which can be visited and we are looking forward to that, as well as to experiencing more of village life.