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Paw Paw - Log Day 212: A Samoan "Fofo"



This morning it was a made scramble to get ashore to see the Police Marching Band again and get inside the Catholic Cathedral while it was unoccupied. In both instances Roy wanted to take some videos with the new camera.

From there we decided to pass some time with a morning coffee at Nourish. However, after perusing their menu we decided on hot teas - Freshly ground tumeric and ginger (Elaine) and tumeric and passion fruit (Roy). It didn't take us long to decide that we also wanted to return for lunch. That has been true about every café or restaurant that we have visited to date - we've simply had to return for another meal!

The main event of the day though was Elaine's visit to a traditional healer for a Samoan massage, known as the "Fofo". It will, without a doubt, go down on record as the most unusual experiences she had ever had.

It uses a wide range of techniques from a gentle rub ("mili mili"), to kneading ("l omi lomi") and slapping, pounding and chopping ("tu'i tu'i") along with singing. Coconut oil mixed with various healing herbs and spices is applied to the skin during the process. The only bit Elaine didn't experience was the massaging of the balls of the feet while standing or walking ("soli").

Never before during a massage has she been put into so many different positions and there was definitely no room for modesty. In an essentially partitioned, open air fale (house) with a small serong covering the entrance, one strips off, except for shorts / undies and lies on a huge flat, adjustable bed covered with another serong. That's it ie no covering for yourself.

The lady healer that did Elaine's massage was as old as the hills, but as strong as an ox. The only way to describe the process was that it felt like her entire body was being realigned and somewhat of a spiritual experience. Needless to say, although extremely relaxed, according to Roy, she looke d like "a deer in the headlights" for the remainder of the day. But, as the afternoon wore on she felt like she'd run a marathon. Not being able to keep her eyes open at all, she went to bed and, aside from getting up for dinner, stayed their for the remainder of the day.

We did, however, manage to return to Nourish for a delicious lunch although Roy was convinced Elaine was only present in body!




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