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Exody - Days 433-442: Epic, Lobster, Turtles, Barracuda



We have today anchored in Tobago Cays, that pearl of the Grenadines that still matches or indeed tops most of the special places we have visited around the world. But it is much more commercial and organised now with beach barbecue and other services like baguette delivery, mooring buoys, national park rangers etc. We share the main anchorage between Jamesby and Baradal with about 40 other craft. The water is the same translucent turquoise we remember and the turtles far more plentiful.

It's Wednesday 30th March and ten days since our last log- ten days spent making our way up from south Grenada via St David's Harbour, then a close hauled sail to windward of Grenada for Tyrell Bay Carriacou and on to Clifton Harbour, Union Island, Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Chatham, Union Island.

Union has been home base for my brother since the mid 70's when I consequently made my first visit. We cruised the Grenadines several times during my time in Trinidad between 1978-1982 and have visited since - so this is 'home waters' in many ways. However it's been a real pleasure to linger a little longer, see more anchorages and to share our crew's first time wonder - "epic" being a favourite descriptor!

Last week began on Monday 21st with an explore ashore at Lower Woburn near the Whisper Cove Marina and opposite the large Clarkes Court yard where a substantial marina is also being built. Two or three small local shops got our business but best of all was the 'Meet & Meat' at Whisper Cove itself - a first class but bijou butcher and deli. We had capuccinos and internet at the marina cafe before setting off, upwind again, for the two long tacks to St David's - nine miles to make three. Here with his boat Satori just launched at sunset, we dined at the beach bar with brother Martin and were joined by the crew of Allegro - the boat just lifted and they staying at nearby La Sagesse.

Satori left at first light next morning for their longer trip to Union and we followed 07.30. One long 5 mile tack out before we could lay the course for Carriacou reasonably. By the middle of the day we were abreast then ahead of Satori. We later heard that they took 13 hours and 13 tacks to make Union just before sunset. A cloudy day, wet and windy- it was not the most relaxing passage to start with! We learnt (again!) about the importance of thoroughly securing all hatches and one crew succumbed to mal-de-mer before rapidly recovering for a bacon sandwich lunch! The squally weather brought veering winds and the latter part of the sail north of Grenada past Ile Diamante, Ile de Ronde and Kick 'em Jenny was much better. We closed Tyrell Bay and anchored close off Carricou Marine in less than four metres of crystal clear water.

Next afternoon we went around the corner to pick up a mooring off Sandy Isle overnight - a bit blustery but the morning brought slightly quieter conditions for a trip and swim ashore and then across to moor at Paradise Beach. Marian and I found the Fidel 'container' boutique then lunch at 'Off the Hook' beach bar - where unfortunately the advertised barber services needed to be pre-booked! Great aspect from the pristine beach out to Sandy Isle and Union beyond. Meanwhile Pete and Sally took the local route taxi/minibuses via capital Hillsborough to the traditional boatbuilding village of Windward. They were rewarded by seeing a large vessel under construction and enjoyed the local route taxi experience including spectacular vistas from the road across the island. We met them back at Carriacou Marine where we cleared out of Grenada, collected our laundry and took on water and fuel ready for the departure north.

Friday 25th we sailed north the 10 miles to Clifton Harbour, Union, anchoring in our usual spot next to Martin's Scaramouche mooring. Ashore for clearing in at the airport- with the customary "you Martin brudder?" comments from officials and other locals, drinks and tasty lunch at niece Zoe's Snack Shack, we then rested the afternoon, catching up with Hugur, Tulasi and APlus2. Later Zoe cooked for the family and crew to celebrate her dad's birthday up the hill at Martin's house. Dinner, company, night views and moon fantastic but on return to Exody we found our small spare outboard stolen and the main hatch lock tampered with. Sad story for this popular cruising area.

Reported to police next morning and spent rest of day doing laundry, swimming pool, showering, relaxing and internet chez Martin, Sally taking in a 'copilot' flight with Martin to St Vincent and back -15 minutes each way - picking up folk for Union Island's Easterval festival and doing a supermarket run!

Sunday Pete and Sally joined 8 other World ARC-ers from Ayama, Hugur and Wayward Wind on the one day Scaramouche trip to Mayreau, Tobago Cays and Palm Island - enjoyed by all. Finished the day with sundowners on Happy Island.

We stocked up and left on Monday for short hops to PSV for lunch and swim - the rhythmic music from nearby Petit Martinique carrying many miles to sea, then on to Chatham Bay on the lee-side of Union joining Aretha and Garlix. A relatively quiet anchorage after the buzz of Union, though busy next day with a cruise ship re-laying customers ashore and back all day. We could not help feeling there should be more integration here of opportunities for local traders and businesses. Four beach bars had barely a customer and an articulate and talented craftsmen visiting by the week from St Vincent was selling very few souvenirs. The anchorage was gusty but comfortable with good swimming and snorkelling from the boat. Tuesday evening saw us with Ayama and Aretha at Bollhead beach restaurant for obligatory (ie whilst in the Grenadines) barbecue lobster cooked by Rasta Tim. Martin and his two sons joined overland by trailbike.

Today we left after breakfast for the 10 mile motorsail tacking past Mayreau and Catholic Island to the magical turquoise channel between Petit Rameau and Petit Bateau. Tulasi, APlus 2, Garlix and Makena are all here. Just before nightfall, Martin's son Lee turned up on his fine sport fishing boat 'Single Fin' delivering a barracuda 'caught to order' at Marian's request plus a bonus small tuna from his large catch of the day. Anchored off favourite island Jamesby eclipsing Union Island behind, we can see barely another boat looking aft from the cockpit- just Mayreau, Palm and Carriacou as Sarah, Luc and Kai from Makena join us for a pre-prandial Rum Punch.

Peter (Skipper)


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