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Exody - Days 128-132 : The Queen of Scotland



.......came the swift reply when I asked the Customs man who was head of state for this tiny self-governing island country of Niue (pronounced Nuwhey)- having a bit of a dig at Scotland's lack of the independence they value. This country is financially supported by New Zealand and its flag is a yellow ensign with some stars added to the union jack bit. We have met several Niueans who were in Glasgow for the Commonwealth Games, where their delegation of 38 represented nearly 3% of the whole population!

This is one of the largest raised coral atolls in the world - a limestone cap on a sea mount that broke the surface- high point only 68 metres, where lies the well signposted Tsunami refuge. With its population of 1600, its Yacht Club proudly has not a sailor or a boat amongst its local membership, but a worldwide members list , now including us, exceeding the population of the island. The Yacht Club provides a venue and services for visiting yachts including an excellent mooring 'field' of buoys in the 'too deep to anchor' waters. We can clearly see the seabed at 15 to 20 metres and a one metre sea snake appeared by our mooring. The island's perimeter is entirely limestone cliffs dotted with multiple caves topped with a green and a fairly lush landscape - all quite different from what we have seen before.

We arrived here on Thursday 21st just after nightfall, the second last of the six boats coming from Suwarrow, converging with those that came direct from Bora Bora or Raiatea. With three boats still at sea, thirteen of the fleet are here for the formal welcome tonight Saturday 23rd.

The weather was still 'dreich' on Monday 18th as we went ashore to clear out with caretaker/customs/immigration officer Harry at Suwarrow, four of the boats leaving early on in the day for the passage southwest to Niue. We went for coffee on board an Israeli catamaran, meeting a psychologist and a skipper who consults in marina management and circumnavigation fitouts - this being his thirteenth boat. By lunchtime we had the anchor up, carefully avoiding the coral heads and were soon assisting Garlix who had less luck with their chain in water too deep to see or to snorkel. After nearly two hours we left them to it as by then they had help from others in a dinghy and eventually needed scuba gear to retrieve their anchor.

The 540 mile passage was fast for Exody at 165 miles a day average, much over 7 knots and with good winds 20-25 knots, though pretty uncomfortable for the first day - we are not used to wind forward of the beam, the sea was lumpy and the rain heavy! Marian and Petter both declined dinner on day two but were back on form by day three when the wind strength had eased a little and the sea state improved. Most of the trip was under double reefed main and single reefed genny. Garlix slowly overhauled us on the second night when we also connected by VHF with Aretha ,hove-to unlit for engine fuel supply repairs and a rest, then we had Ayama just within sight on the third night arriving just behind her after nightfall on Thursday evening.

Confined to the boat overnight until our clearance Friday morning, we were all searching for blankets as the early morning temperature dropped to 22 degrees- that's winter for you at 19 degrees south! The dinghy landing arrangement here is non-existent due to the swell but there is a self operated derrick for lifting dinghies and larger craft directly out onto the pier - sounds tiresome but works very efficiently! Customs and Immigration turned up in their 'mobile office' a minivan and formalities were cheerfully completed followed by a drive to their office building for payments and paperwork. I found it very strange to be back in an office environment- we were in a meeting room with a whiteboard, forty carefully space-planned desks beyond with a pleasing Scandinavian inspired design - another life!

Rest of the day spent exploring the several cafes and shops, sorting the internet etc with Niue Yacht Club Commodore Keith facilitating virtually everything! We passed on the ARC crazy golf tournament but enjoyed drinks at the New Zealand High Commission and subsequent barbecue at a venue overlooking the sea. Island tour to be organised next!

Peter (Skipper)
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