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Paw Paw - Log Day 262: Dismay - "A Fall from Grace"



We arrived on the outskirts of Suva just after daybreak and found a large number of ships awaiting authorisation to enter the harbour from the Port Authorities. When our turn arrived, we were informed to enter ahead of the ship, Isle De Re. With both engines, fullsteam ahead, we commenced our entry.  However, simultaneously,  Isle De Re, with the pilot now boarded, had increased her speed as well.  With the situation looking very dubious indeed, a second call to Port Authority cleared the miscommunication -  We were now to follow the ship in. Either way, that was going to happen regardless or we were going to end up toothpicks. As the saying goes: "Might had right"! 

When we entered the harbour, the only word to describe our feelings was "dismay" as we tried to find the Royal Suva Yacht Club amongst the huge number of cargo ships, derelict chinese fishing vessels and wrecks scattered around the bay.

Per the various Cruising Guides we had read and photographs we had seen (spot the before and after attached) before making our decision to come to Suva, as well as cruise Beqa and the southern side of Viti Levu, known as the "Coral Coast", we had expected to find a beautiful anchorage off the capital and a lovely yacht club, in existence since 1932, requiring its Royal Charter in 1950. Quoted as :"One of the most active and lively clubs in the area, with an excellent bar, a restaurant, a full social programme and all the facilities required by the yachting fraternity. You will be made most welcome and after a few days will know why so many find it difficult to leave". The perfect place to hangout while getting our sail repaired, right?

Words escape us. Lets just say, the Royal Suva Yacht Club is no longer very "royal" and has certainly had a "fall from grace". Needless to say, we have been unable to get our sail repaired here, we were interrogated on arrival regarding our clearance into Fiji - so much for a warm welcome, we were not permitted to use their wifi and the place was deserted. The majority of vessels in the little marina are fishing boats, with a handful of yachts that don't seem to have sailed in recent memory. We did manage to enjoy a lunch in the little restaurant though.

In summary, had we not been so tired after our overnight sail, we would have simply turned around and continued sailing. We decided, however, that the more prudent option is to hightail it out of here in the morning and do another overnight sail to the vicinity of Loutaka, referred to as the Nadi Waters, skipping the "Coral Coast" altogether.

With all this additional sailing we could have been halfway to New Zealand by now. The Nadi Waters are, however, known to be the more touristy part of Fiji, so we're hoping to have better luck there.


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