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Firefly - Naigani and Nananu-I-Ra, Viti Levu, Fiji



When Firefly left the sheltered anchorage south of Savusavu we were confronted with 25 knots of wind from the south east. Having looked at the GRIB files we knew it was unlikely we would go to Taveuni as planned as it would be a 40 mile slog upwind. Instead we closed reached for 20 miles to get past Namena reef and then set a course past Makogai on a beam reach and then onto Naigani, after rounding another reef - finally we were on a comfortable broad reach - both are islands in the Lomoviti Group, off the east coast of Viti Levu, Fiji's largest island.

Tucking in behind Naigani and its northern reef, having sailed almost 60 miles, we were rewarded with a beautiful anchorage to ourselves. Lying just off a pristine palm lined beach backed by a steep cliff with lush vegetation and fruit bats (also called flying foxes) circling overhead even during daylight. The following morning we inflated the outboard and went off to look around the island and to find some good snorkeling. According to the Lonely Planet Dive Guide for Fiji - we were in a good place.

A few bays south of our anchorage we met the local dive boat, and after a brief discussion, Maraka or Mac the divemaster arranged to collect us from Firefly the next morning for a two tank scuba dive. We went off to snorkel the various reefs and found stunning corals, numerous fish and one surprisingly large white tipped reef shark. Meeting sharks seems ok when scuba diving and we are with a dive master - however, it did not feel quite so good when snorkeling on our own - so once we spotted the white tip we beat a hasty retreat to our dinghy and moved elsewhere.

The next morning Maraka arrived in a local fishing boat (although it did have a diving boarding ladder and we had to sign the PADI consent forms) - the dive boat was apparently elsewhere. Maraka took us diving at both Cactus and Sea Fan dive sites. Visibility was poor, due to recent rainfall on the main island but despite this it was beautiful. Fiji is known as the 'soft coral capital' and it is markedly different to what we have seen so far in our limited diving experience that only started when we were in the Tuamotos.

After 3 nights anchored off Naigani, we left early on Tuesday (24th June) morning during a rain shower. The East of Vitu Levu is known as a wetter area and often we could see the sun shining towards the west. So we headed west - sailing down Bligh Water to Nananu-I-Ra. Nananu-I-Ra is on the northern tip off Vitu Levu and it clearly gets less rain as the mountains behind on the mainland are much less abundant with foliage. Its also windy here and despite setting off in 10 knots of wind it was blowing 25 by the time we entered the Nananu pass through the reefs that fringe the north of Vitu Levu despite a much lower wind forecast.

Nananu-I-Ra does not have a Fijian village but hosts several low key, eco resorts and a number of antipodeans with holiday homes who come here for the winter - its very pretty and relaxed. We had already made contact with Safari Lodge by e mail -they specialise in water sports - both diving as well as kitesurfing. So earlier today we were off diving with Esa our local guide from Safari Lodge.

We dived Dream Maker and Golden Dreams both outside the reefs to the north in Bligh Water. These dives were stunning as before with 'forests' of yellow and orange soft coral hanging down from the sides of the huge bommies or underwater coral stacks - these amazing fern like growths were home to uncountable numbers of fish as well as many other corals of all types and colour including sea fans, a huge, vertically flat branch jutting out from the bommies. Both dives involved some fabulous swim throughs between gaps and tunnels in the bommies plus an encounter with a turtle.

Tomorrow is reserved for Paul to go kitesurfing, the plan being to go out on the daily boat from Safari Lodge to a reef 5 miles upwind - and kite back. Firefly will be staying at Nananu-I-Ra for a few more days before we head further west to next World ARC rendezvous at Musket Cove on Malolo Island.

Paul and Susie


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