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Paw Paw - Log Day 89: Tattoo Time
Paw Paw - Log Day 89: Tattoo Time
07/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 88: The "Garden of Eden"

After a very peaceful night sleep without any interruptions, we both woke up feeling refreshed and ready to face our 5 hour hike to the 3rd tallest waterfall in the world, but not before waving off Wishanger II,Nina and Do Over. With our picnic lunch packed we set off in the dinghy for our short trip up the river.En route we stopped by Alcedo of Ryme for a chat, before they too set sail for pastures new. Having secured the dinghy to a tree alongside the river bank,we started the hike through what felt like a walk in the "Garden of Eden". The vegetation, flowers,fruit trees,rivers, mountain streams and finally the waterfall was just spectacular. We enjoyed our picnic lunch beside a small brook on our way back, following which we stopped by the home of the family who had offered us lunch. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 88: The "Garden of Eden"
Paw Paw - Log Day 88: The
07/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 87: Goodbyes and Hellos

After a rather rough night due to a really heavy swell running straight into our anchorage in Baie d' Hakahau,on the island of Ua Poo, coupled with gusty winds,and having saidour goodbyes to Cattiva (Maria and Maurice) the previous night, we were up early and headed for Baie de Taioa on the island of Nuku Hiva. We had a lovely beam reach sail over and arrived just after lunch time.After stopping by Wishanger II (Claudine,Brian,Ben and Sam) and Nina (Lynda, Steve and the friends, Karen and Peter) to say hello,since we hadn't seen them since leaving Hiva Oa, it was back to Paw Paw for an well deserved afternoon nap.We also enjoyed a surprise "dinghy drive-by" visit from Do Over (Paula, Dan, Oriana and Ryan) after their hike to the waterfall, having previously said goodbye to them in. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 87: Goodbyes and Hellos
Paw Paw - Log Day 87: Goodbyes and Hellos
07/04/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 35. Nuka Hiva. 08.55.09S 140.05.96W

Thursday, 31 March.A plan was made last night for a party of walkers, older ones that is, to walk to the local waterfall, except for Jane and the Skipper's wife, who elected to do the shorter walk to the Polynesian ruins above the village while also bird watching and visiting the village shop where Jane bought a pair of jellies.A lovely time was had by all including the mosquitoes, who were out in force at the ruins. Good anti mosquito strategies are essential in this part of the world.The afternoon's entertainment was trying to get Carango's outboard motor to work, with help of Ian from Zoom. Followed by swimming with the Manta Rays, which were doing summersaults in the water all around the boats and feeding on the surface plankton.Finding yourself face to face with a huge ray that has. read more...


06/04/2016

Starblazer - Ooohhh Deeaarr

We've just had the biggest engine fault so far.An occasional cough (fuel?), a bit of a rattle (tappets?) followed by continuous rattling of a can 1/2 full of nuts and bolts. I stopped the engine.Removal of a valve gear cover showed one broken spring and no sign of its valve shaft.Looks like the valve is in the cylinder, which probably does not have enough room for the piston as well.We were headed for Marigot Bay on St Lucia for a rally dinner tomorrow (Thursday) and a Parade of Sail to Rodney Bay on Saturday.We are now heading directly to Rodney Bay to anchor for the night and hope that the Marina will help us in tomorrow.We will get to tomorrow's dinner by car and work on the engine on the following days.Hopefully the parts can be flown in quickly.Allegro have been standing by to help,. read more...


06/04/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 34. Uka Huka. 08.55.69S 139.32.06W

Tuesday, 29 March.An early start for going north and a cracking good sail with the the apparent wind just forward of the beam.Uka Huka is approx 25 miles east of Nuka Hiva and very different to the other Islands.It is still high in parts and rugged, but almost stripped of trees because of the massive horse and goat populations, which have eaten most of the vegetation, leaving only what we presumed to be some sort of grass.Sadly, we did not chose the best anchorage for the prevailing conditions.The bay was attractive enough and we were looking forward to exploring the village and seeing if we could get to a tropical garden famous for plants, trees and birds, but there was so much swell in the bay, landing safely in the dingy was not possible.To cap it all, Carango's outboard stopped. read more...


06/04/2016

Solo - Ende von Leg 4, free Cruising Period Tuamotos

Wir sind in Rekordzeit – 19 Tage – von den Galapagos-Inseln in Hiva Oa angekommen. Das Segeln zu zweit war ein Vergnügen, allerdingswar ich nach 2 Wochen zweitweise so übermüdet, dass ich tagsüber Sandra  - meine Ehefrau und „Kopilotin“ immer nach japanischen Touristen gefragt habe, die an Bord seien. Ich konnte  Traum und Wirklichkeit über Stunden nicht auseinanderhalten. Wir musstenteilweise über Nacht beide vollständig wach  bleiben, um ständig den Autopiloten zu bedienen und andere Segel zu setzen. Das hat unsere Leistungsfähigkeit nach zwei Wochen dermaßen herabgesetzt, dass wir teilweise das Vorsegel eingerollt haben, nur unter Grossegelund Gesan gelaufen sind und einfach nur geschlafen haben, um wieder fitt zu werden. Ansonsten macht man nur gefährliche Fehler, was. read more...


05/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island

Elaine woke just as dawn was breaking to some very strange noises at Paw Paw's stern, only to realise it was Roy lowering the dinghy from the davits. He was heading to the local bakery having had it on good authority that if you didn't get there early enough there would be nothing left by 0600.It was 0500.His eagerness paid off as he returned a short while later laden with all sorts of French pastries and baguettes for both ourselves and Cattiva. Since it was so early,Elaine waited an hour before sneaking over to Cattiva to deposit the treats.They were pleasantly surprised to find breakfast sitting in their cockpit when they surfaced. We then enjoyed a walk on the beach and a tour around the little town with Maria as our guide. The craftsmanship of the stone work and carvings evident on. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island
Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island
Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island
Paw Paw - Log Day 86: A Bountiful Island
05/04/2016

Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 28 March - 3 April. The Marquesa Islands

Monday 28 March 16.3am "Call the Hands" and weigh anchor with least possible noise. We waftedalmost silently like a ghost out of the Stephen's Bay, the beautiful littleTahuata anchorageleaving behind the half dozen or so other yachts whose masthead anchorlights looked like so many fireflies dancing across the water as we drewaway setting course for Ua-Pou, the Marquesa island about 75 miles to thenorth west. With only 5-7 knots of an ESE wind and a gentle sea we set fullmain and motorsailed hoping the wind might increase. As luck would have itthe wind remained slight so we continued motorsailing towards ourdestination. At 7.30am the visibility was so good we sighted the spectaclaroutline of Ua-Pou at by then 32 miles distant while still being able to seeTahuata from whence we came and. read more...


04/04/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 33. Tahuata. 09.57.66S 139.07.10W

27 March, Easter Sunday.Obviously got the dates wrong on the previous blog, easy to do on Island Time, where days of the week have little meaning to us, but we definitely left Fatu Hiva just after 7.00am on Easter Sunday.Calm, sunny morning with the Island looking just lovely in the early morning sun, so motor on until the wind got up at about 09.00.Then an uneventful sail/motor sail towards Tahuata, passing Paw Paw going in the opposite direction at about the half way mark.We arrived off the Island after an early lunch in a nasty rain squall that blotted out everything, but after thoroughly soaking most of the crew, it cleared before we approached the anchorage in Baie Hanatefau where we found Whishanger and Paradise Found and quite a few non WARC boats.After anchoring (twice because of. read more...


04/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 85: A Manta Ray "Dance" to Celebrate

This morning we arrived bright and early in Baie d' Hakahau on the island of Oa Poo after our overnight sail from Tahuata. It was lovely to be greeted on the radio by the familiar voice of Maurice who provided us with information on the best place to anchor,considering how small this little harbour is. Once settled snugly behind the breakwater, we wasted no time in getting the dinghy in the water and heading over to Cattiva to say hello to our friends.After lots of cheerful hugs and over a wonderful breakfast of freshly baked French pastries from the local bakery, we started the process of catching up on each others news and experiences since saying our goodbyes in Curacao some 18 months earlier. The whole experience was quiet surreal actually,given that so much time had passed and we. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 85: A Manta Ray "Dance" to Celebrate
Paw Paw - Log Day 85: A Manta Ray
04/04/2016

Widago - Next Stop: Rangiroa

Next stop: Rangiroa....We bailed on going to Fakarava, and should arrive in the morning to Rangiroa. After finding out that Fakarava resort was shut down, and services limited (aka no restaurant, but maybe a "snack bar", and unknown internet capacity), we turned right. Also helping was that the wind angle / sea state greatly improved when we came up 30 degrees. We had a couple great days sailing fast with white sails on a beam reach, but seas were festive - no water glasses left on the tables. After a couple days flying Big Blue in 12-15 kts, the wind finally crapped out last night about 10. Been motoring (and making ice) all day. Gorgeous out. Caught & released a pretty good size Marlin this afternoon, followed by brownies and homemade empanadas. Boys declared them top-notch bar. read more...


04/04/2016

Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 21-27 March 2016. Isles Marquises.

Monday 21 March 2016.The previous blog was sent shortly after midday on 21 March so this is justto add what happened that evening and night. At sundown we celebratedNigel's birthday with small eats and a specially chilled bottle of MoetChandon champagne. Sailing into the setting sun with the sky and cloudsslowlychanging from bluish white to gold then pink then crimson while drinkingchampagne was a perfect way to celebrate our last evening beforecompleting our crossing of the Pacific. Shortly after an excellent curriedchicken dinner, (one of my favorites), we suddenly noticed the hankeeforesail appeared to have become very loose. Having turned on the spreaderlights and hooked on life line to inspect, we discovered that the tack metalfixing holding the spare forestay on which the hankee. read more...


03/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 84: Reconnecting with Cattiva

After a blustery day yesterday,the clouds parted today and we got to snorkel under sunny skies in crystal clear blue, warm waters. It was a very unusual snorkel in that it was nothing like anything we had seen before.The fish,while plentiful, were not brightly coloured,with the exception of the sergeant majors and some tiny bright blue fish. The rest, including the parrotfish and angelfish were all dark, almost camouflaged against the volcanic rock. Also, the habitat was not a coral reef,but rocks with large coral formations growing on them. The formations looked like giant-sized carnation flowers. Very pretty in its own strange way.Now, however,under a clear, starry moonless sky we sail to Oa Poo, where we willmeet up with our cruising friends Maria and Maurice on Cattiva. So looking. read more...


Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
02/04/2016

Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!

We spent two nights on Carriacou.John had offered me dinner ashore however I suggested lunch instead.At the current stage in the moon's cycle it doesn't get up until after midnight and the anchorage was very dark.It was also quite crowded so we had fears of driving the dinghy in circles looking for Starblazer.The village in Tyrrel Bay is very small, with numerous cafe/bars, a few vegetable stalls and a few tiny 'supermarkets' which certainly do not live up to their name!Next time we'll visit Hillsborough, the capital, either anchor off or go by taxi.Our trip to Union Island didn't quite go as planned.We pulled up the anchor, motored out of the bay then sailed just about all the way to Union Island.Clifton, the capital where we needed to clear in, is at the eastern end of the island which. read more...


02/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 83: "Flat as a Pancake"

After a fairly blustery night, we woke to a wet, rainy and overcast day, so our plans for a walk on the beach and a snorkel went out the window or, should we say, out the port hole. Instead Elaine spent the day indoors sorting out and cataloging all our photos as well as writing a new article, which are now all ready to be uploaded to our website and gallery, just as soon as we get a decent wifi connection. She also decided it would be a great idea to do a cooked breakfast this morning and make buttermilk pancakes.Unfortunately they all came out as "flat as a pancake",we think, as a result of our baking powder going off.In reality though, were not altogether sure what caused the flop, but we ate them nonetheless. Roy on the otherhand was way more physical today as he completed the. read more...


01/04/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 32. Tahuata and Fatu Hiva. 10.27.90S 138.40.10W

Wednesday 23 March.The delightful Frenchman recommended by Laurent was clearly an expert in dealing with unhappy outboards.He came to see us shortly after breakfast, knew exactly what was required and The Skipper was able to fix the problem once the solution was explained.He refused payment as it was so easy to fix so we gave him a bottle of wine as we were very grateful for his help and for the fact that we could greet Carango without embarrassment, particularly as they were now in the Bay.We made sure we had paid for the laundry and fruit and then informed the WARC Office that we were leaving for Tahuata. The Skipper and Anthony set about getting the stern anchor up, no easy task as the mud in Tahauku seemed to have sucked in the anchor and which required the help of another strong. read more...


01/04/2016

Firefly - Laying up in Malaysia

Today is Friday 1st April and Firefly is anchored on the west side of Pangkor Island. Tomorrow morning we are motoring around to Pangkor Marina and will have 2 nights afloat while we finish decommissioning and then be hauled out on Monday. We have been here for 2 days and are working as hard as we can to get the boat ready for the forthcoming 5 month lay up. However, its baking hot and apparently there is a heatwave in Malaysia at present, so work can only be done early in the morning and in the evening. Its not so bad - the hot, middle part of the day we have spent on the beach at the superb Nipah Deli. Eating lunch, meeting their hand fed Hornbill and then sitting in their sun loungers under a huge almond tree - complete with monkeys dropping almonds on customers.Going back a week, we. read more...


01/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm

Today was a mixed bag.Elaine started the day off with her exercises on the foredeck - The first time since leaving St Lucia. Ready for the day, she then enjoyed a nice chat to Keenan and, after breakfast, baked a Banana Loaf. She then spent the rest of the day sorting out photos in the hope of being able to upload them all when we get to Nuku Hiva in a week or so.Roy started the day off by cleaning the hulls - The first time since leaving La Playita,Panama. After breakfast he attempted to fix our gas barbecue,but to no avail - A new part is needed. He then investigated the source of the problem with our fridge - Fortunately it's the controller and not the compressor, but nonetheless,another new part needs to be purchased.Before we knew it, the day was over and we were saying goodbye to. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day  82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day  82: A Strange Calm
01/04/2016

Exody - Days 433-442: Epic, Lobster, Turtles, Barracuda

We have today anchored in Tobago Cays, that pearl of the Grenadines that still matches or indeed tops most of the special places we have visited around the world.But it is much more commercial and organised now with beach barbecue and other services like baguette delivery, mooring buoys, national park rangers etc.We share the main anchorage between Jamesby and Baradal with about 40 other craft.The water is the same translucent turquoise we remember and the turtles far more plentiful.It's Wednesday 30th March and ten days since our last log- ten days spent making our way up from south Grenada via St David's Harbour, then a close hauled sail to windward of Grenada for Tyrell Bay Carriacou and on to Clifton Harbour, Union Island, Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Chatham, Union Island.Union has. read more...


31/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners

It was a bright and early start for us this morning as we headed to Tahuata. Not long after we departed we had a convoy with Barbara Jean, Do Over and Belafonte following in hot pursuit.It was a great sail on headsail alone in 15 to 18 kts of wind which allowed us the opportunity to arrive in plenty of time to explore the various anchorages before deciding where we wanted to anchor for the next few days. We eventually decided on Baie Hanamoenoa or, as it is fondly referred to as "Stephen's Bay", named after the loan inhabitant who lives just off the beautiful sandy beach. As it turned out, half of the WARC fleet had also decided this idyllic bay was the best spot. After a snorkel, followed by early sundowners on Paw Paw with the folks off Belafonte, we all headed over to Widago to join. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners
Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners
30/03/2016

Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts

How do you provision your boat?A buying spree at the box store or sourcing local food products?Our new French friends have a great ability to save money and eat healthy.They collect their own papaya, mangos, bananas, shrimp, crabs, fish, lobster and hot peppers. (I think some of this is a moral grey area driven by land ownership).Others pick their own fruits and vegetables, but what impressed me with our friends was their purchase of a hen for fresh eggs.The previous time they tried this, while cruising Senegal, the plan failed because they bought a male.However this bird is also not producing eggs due to stress.The bulk of her life has been passage making over 3,000 miles of rolly seas. Tonight while at their boat for drinks we noticed that live crabs were trying to break out of the. read more...


Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81  Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81  Random Thoughts
30/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity

Today, in the company of the WARC participants from Do Over, Giampi, Belafonte and Waterman, we enjoyed a hike to a beautiful waterfalls about an hour from town.It didn't take long for all of us to strip down to our swimware and take the plunge to cool off as soon as we arrived. We did, however, take the time to dry off on the rocks and enjoy our picnic lunch before heading back. Good times indeed!The hospitality and generosity of this little settlement continues to surprise us though. As the majority of our group made its way along the mainstreet en route to the waterfall, a few folks branched off to trade a fishing lure for some grapefruits - a common practice around the islands. Not only did they successfully complete the trade, but they re-joined the group bearing the most delicious. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
30/03/2016

Luna Quest - Wednesday, 30th March, 2016

Position: 13.01N 61.14W BEQUIADistance from Carriacou: 39 logged milesOn Thursday, 24th March, at 8.30am we set sail for Union Island (10 miles). Strong trade winds from the East made our passage quite rough, but with the help of the engine, a triple reefed mainsail and the genoa furled, we arrived at 11am. One of the boat boys helped us to an excellent mooring buoy.On Tuesday, 29th March, at 8.30 we set sail for Bequia (29 miles) in fresh easterly trade winds. It was a close reach on one tack and arrived in Admiral's Bay, Bequia, at 13.30, where we were lucky enough to be directed to the last available mooring buoy. Eric. read more...


29/03/2016

Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action

Yesterday, there was a boat approaching our anchorage in distress on the VHF radio.It was a 35 foot Catalina, a boat designed for coastal day sailing and often maligned as a blue water boat.They had left Panama 38 days ago with a Captain and two crew.Fifteen days into the journey, the starboard inner shroud (holds up the mast) parted.There are additional shrouds that secure the mast so the rig did not fall down, but this is a perilous situation for a boat 1,000 miles from land and 2,000 miles from their destination.The crew used lines to secure the broken shroud and kept sailing towards the Marquesas with only a jib.The trip became a blur.The boat traveled at 4 knots and sometimes slower.The crew started forgetting the date and long ago ran out of their favorite provisions.Spirits stayed. read more...


Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day  79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day  79 Harbor Action
29/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 79: "Don't Judge a Book by its Cover"

We woke to a cloudy, rainy day as well as the anchorage emptying out as WARC yachts headed for the rendezvous in Huku Hiva. However,by mid-morning the rain had passed,the clouds had lifted and the sun peeked through, revealing the most stunning scenery. I guess the Bay of Virgins lived up to its reputation after all.Excited to get a shore and explore,we launched the dinghy and headed to the concrete pier neatly tucked behind a small breakwater.With only 600 inhabitants,it didn't take long to see the little settlement and walk out of town to enjoy the surroundings.En route a car stopped to greet us and introduce themselves.What followed next was something very unexpected - The driver asked us if we would like a freshly baked baquette. Is the Pope Catholic? Of course, but when Roy went to. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 79: "Don't Judge a Book by its Cover"
Paw Paw - Log Day 79:
29/03/2016

Starblazer - 28/03/2016 - Another day, another anchorage.

We dropped the mooring in Dragon Bay on the west coast of Grenada soon after 0830 and started sailing northwards along the coast.It was not the kind of sailing I like, the wind jumping between a comfortable 12-14 knots to an uncomfortable 20-24!I can get used to any angle of heel given time but when the boat suddenly28/03/2016 - Another day, another anchorage. lays over after some gentle sailing I just don't like it.John hand steered for the first couple of hours to save the batteries, however the wind backed, pushing us more to the north rather than North East, then it died completely so we started the engine and motor sailed.The wind was only kidding and came back strongly so we continued motor sailing, tacking in towards the shore then away again (you can sail closer to the wind. read more...


28/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 78: "Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder"

Saying goodbye to Hiva Oa yesterday was just in the nick of time as we motored out ahead of a large squall which soaked the island behind us. Heading for the sunshine and blue skies, we were excited to see Fatu Hiva, the only island in the Marquesas that was on Elaine's wishlist to see. Having read articles about it in sailing magazines and having it quoted in Essential Sailing Destinations: "Hanavave on Fatu Hiva, with its towering rock formations, is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful bays in the world",was a sight worthy of another beat to windward, in high swells, burning precious diesel because the wind was light and in the wrong direction, as far as Elaine was concerned.Well, beauty is most definitely in the eye of the beholder. We arrived in torrential rain with a. read more...


28/03/2016

Starblazer - 27/03/2016 - to or Towards?

If you look in any sailing logbook the top line reads 'From', OK we know our starting point, then it reads 'Towards', not because we don't know where we want to go but rather we don't know where we will finish!Today was a good case in point.We left somewhat later than hoped because the oil change took a lot longer than anticipated then, shortly after pulling the anchor up, we discovered we had no saltwater running through the heat exchanger on the engine.This caused us to cut the engine, pull out the Genoa, sail back into the anchorage and drop the anchor again!The system was quickly primed and we were ready to pull up the anchor again, thank heavens for an electric anchor windlass.Our intended destination today was Carriacou, about 37 nM away.When you think about the adverse currents we. read more...


27/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 77: "In Rome..."

Since we eventually got all our domestic chores out of the way and since we didn't need fuel of any kind (which would have been a rather time-consuming exercise of ferry it by dinghy in jerry cans), it was time to go and play. We started the day off with a ride into town to visit the Paul Gauguin Art Museum, which apperared to be closed,but the doors were unlocked, so we wondered around anyway.From there we visited his gravesite, perched high on the hillside with spectacular views overlooking Atuona. It was here, inside a wall that surrounded one of the graves, that Roy spotted a hen and her chicks which were unable to get out of the confined area in order to eat.Roy,with baguettes tucked under his arm that were purchased earlier, decided to feed them - a gesture that is so typical of. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 77: "In Rome..."
Paw Paw - Log Day 77:

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