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Timshel - Tuamotus



We sighted land from about 25 miles away, maybe further than expected, visibility must have been good. As expected we saw low lying Palm trees and little islands. We had decided to make for Kauehi which was a bit closer than Fakarava, but even so no amount of calculation would get us there in time to go in that day. Once you are through the pass, you still have to cross 9 miles of lagoon to get to the anchorage on the other side and we were just too late to guarantee to get all the way in daylight. So we looked at the pass, then sailed on slowly, very small headsail only, for half the night then back for the other half. We had calculated (by times of moonrise and set and times given for a nearby island) that slack water at the pass would be 09.30. We actually went through a little early the tide still flowing out, but the tide whirls and overfalls were no worse than one would encounter in many passes on the West Coast of Scotland. Obviously others agreed with our calculation as 4 boats were going storming out, including Ashia and Shamal from the WARC fleet. Lexington was still there in the anchorage by the village when we got across and Bob (Woods) welcomed us, saying what time would we like Happy Hour to be? It is a beautiful lagoon, clear blue water, white sand, palm trees and coral. You have to get your head round how large the lagoons are, although logically you can see this on the chart it doesn't sink in until you are there and realise that you can only just about see the other side. We spent a relaxing day and a very convivial evening on Lexington, then a good sleep that night. Next morning Skyelark arrived and then Taistealai, great to see them again. We explored the village, which does have a shop, people very friendly and got green coconuts to drink along with Skyelark's crew. Dan is determined to catch some Coconut crabs to cook? Apparently the Pearl season is finished (Nov and Dec) but on this island they grow the small seed oysters which are shipped to Fakarava for maturation. Lexington's and Taistealai's crews came to us for the evening. We did pasta and Lexington brought lovely salad and wonderful Chocolate Silk Pie, and Taistealai had made great Chocolate brownies, all served with whipped cream and chocolate sauce - what luxury.

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