Firefly - Windy days anchored at Cocos Keeling

A couple of weeks back, we made a good decision to leave Krakatoa a day earlier then planned as we arrived at the Direction Island anchorage at Cocos Keeling just before the wind increased significantly. Despite our good timing we did have a very rough 3rd night out of the 4 on the passage with winds gusting over 30 knots and beam seas frequently breaking over Firefly's coachroof.

However, no sooner was the anchor set the winds increased and it howled for 48 hours. The wind wss blowing across the anchorage at about 30 knots and when accompanied by a squall it was reaching well over 40 knots. When we first arrived there were about 6 boats riding out the strongs wind, just Firefly and one other from the WARC.

The WARC fleet was in fact very spread out due to the tropical low that had formed across their route from Christmas Island and several boats were on passage to Cocos during the severe weather. We spoke via SSB radio to some of them and they were seeing high wind speeds and some very rough seas. Hearing the news we were pleased to be tucked in behind Direction Island despite the fact that it was too windy to go ashore and we were boat bound at first.

After a couple of days we did manage to get ashore on Direction Island and subsequently visited Home and West Island, the inhabited parts of Cocos. On Home Island there is a 600 strong population of Malays, originally from Malaysia. West Island is home to 120 Aussies and a small number of tourists who arrive by air on the twice weekly Virgin Australia flights. The long and strategically important (security wise) airstrip is on West Island and during a 'Champagne Breakfast' tour, our guide Kylie, said that 'it is the reason we all here'.

On the tour we visited the Clam Farm, the art studio at the Big Barge and then headed south along the 14km long ribbon of land to a spot for brunch. Sipping champagne and tasting local speciality food complete with locally produced lime zest flavourings was a real treat. Along with 15 other WARC sailors we chatted, sitting under palm trees on old furniture at Kylie's camp, overlooking the stunning azure shallow lagoon.

Things were so relaxed that a punctured tyre on the minibus meant just retreating into the shade again. Kylie's husband, Ash, turned up and picked us up in his vehicle. Ash was slightly perturbed as the timing coincided with the Australian Rules Football Cup final - and he only managed to get back to it with 4 minutes remaining. The 'Doggies' won which was clearly popular with the majority of the residents on Cocos who were filling the only bar.

In all Firefly spent 8 relaxing days at Cocos and as the wind dropped a normal daily routine ensued; a swim in the rip, where the sea enters the lagoon at the south of the island, some excellent kite surfing, checking in on line at the wifi hotspot provided for the sailors at the hut on the beach, followed by a drink at 1700. Preparing, refueling and provisioning the boat was also taking place and while we managed to get everything we needed the fact that it meant a wet dinghy trip to Home or West Island was not at all convenient.

On the final day the facilities did come to us and World Cruising organised an excellent gourmet standard BBQ on the beach following the Skipper's Briefing for the forthcoming 2350 nautical mile passage to Mauritius.

Paul, Gareth and Hugh