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Paw Paw - Log Day 17: The Tainted Side of the San Blas Islands



After working out what we wanted to do yesterday, we settled on leaving Paw Paw in Chichime after hearing all sorts of stories of other yachts dragging, hitting reefs, losing anchors, etc and headed via dinghy for what we thought was a uninhabited tiny island just south of us.  It is, in essence, a heap of golden sand approx 1/8th of an acre in size with about 5 palm trees on it and surrounded by reefs - simply stunning! As we approached, however, we soon noticed a hut under the trees, occupied by two Guna Indian families, who welcomed us ashore even though we didn't have the $2/person fee to give them.

After enjoying our stay an unexpected challenge developed - the tide was coming in and rather large waves were dumping on the shore which made our dinghy launch impossible. Fortunately a local water taxi stopped by for a visit and showed us their safe route out. After making it safely back to Chichime, we decided that our exploration were better served closer to home. Chichime is a beautiful island, but sadly spoilt by the amount of garbage scattered in places.

We  topped off the day with a lovely dinner and drinks aboard Nina (Lynda and Steve) with their friends Lesley and Chris.

This morning it was up early to catch the water taxi we had arranged to take Elaine to Porvenir along with five other sailors in order to clear in. The day didn't start off well and got progressively worse. The taxi didn't arrive so the chief of Chichime was kind enough to arrange his water taxi to take us. Halfway across the channel, in rather large swells, Elaine really doubted the decision to take a water taxi over vs moving Paw Paw. Anyway, we arrived safe and sound, started the rather cumbersome clearing in process and we were getting through it all in reasonably good time when the last step halted everything - the immigration officer had lost some of his receipt books and would not process one more person until he discovered what had happened to them. Four hours later, with threats that we would all have to return tomorrow, he eventually learnt that the missing receipt books were never delivered in the first place and it was quite alright for him to continue using the new books which he did have.  By now we were approaching his lunch break and he promptly informed us that we had to pay him overtime to finish processing us as he was too stressed and would not be undertaking any further processing this afternoon. This, after Elaine had already shelled out $270.00 in visa fees and local taxes, excluding all the money the WARC was paying on our behalf for the cruising permit. The blatant way in which he simply pocketed the overtime money handed to him was staggering.  The corker for the day was twofold though.  We were told there were no toilets on the island for us to use and when questioned we were told to use the sea. So, in deparation, Elaine and another lady who was clearing out as well, had to squat behind a bush on the edge of the beach with waves lapping to do our business.  Then, when we eventually returned to Chichime the chief was so angry with us for taking so long to get back he wanted to charge us extra fares for the taxi. This, after we managed to return an hour earlier than previously arranged. No explanation would pacify him and the conversation ended in him telling us that we must just leave his island. When we told him we all had planned to leave in the morning he indicated that that was a good thing and to just leave!

Needless to say, the San Blas Islands have definitely not left a good impression on us.  Between the cost of our very short stay and the manner in which we have been treated leaves a lot to be desired!



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