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Firefly - Singapore stopover and up the Melacca Straits



Today is Thursday 12th November and Firefly is motoring north west up the Melacca Straits with Malaysia and Sumatra on either side.

We reluctantly departed Singapore yesterday after a really enjoyable 4 night stay. For 2 months we had been cruising through Indonesia and although really spectacular in many places it was always felt a little 'off piste'. The Indonesian people were incredibly friendly throughout but things such as forest fires and smoke haze, poor pilot and chart information, over fishing and extensive rubbish, light winds and the start of the monsoon.....plus the final struggle with the authorities to check out of the country.... had made us a little 'jaded'.

Singapore still suffers from the haze but in every other respect it is a polar opposite to Indonesia. Checking into the exclusive One 15 Marina on Sentosa Island we were berthed amongst a flotilla of 'Gin Palaces' most of which were being polished on a daily basis. The marina courtesy bus took us to Vivo City, a huge shopping mall and MRT hub (Singapore's Underground) and from there we could get anywhere. Clearly the national pastime in Singapore is shopping - everywhere we went we found more malls, full of shops and full of people. The highlights of our days out were the visits to the Gardens by the Bay, the Jurong Bird Park and some great meals. The Gardens are centered around 2 bio domes similar to those at the Eden Project and exceptionally well done. Once dark the 'Electric Trees Rhapsody' light and music show was memorable - the 'super trees' are steel and are intended to symbolize rain forest giants - being covered in tropical flora and fauna and collecting water and solar power. For about 15 minutes the light show is like a dazzling firework display in time with some classic soundtracks.

It is amazing that Singapore is so close to Indonesia geographically and yet so different economically. From Kupang to Tanyang Pinang we had seen thousands of Indonesian people the majority of whom are leading a very basic life, living in very basic dwellings and with few material goods except for the ubiquitous mobile phone. The Indonesian's we met all seemed very happy and were always courteous. The population in Singapore is a mix of Malay, Chinese, Indian and Western Immigrants. Everyone we came across was well dressed and clearly living at social levels well above 'basic needs'. They also appeared happy and were very courteous and absolutely everyone had a smart phone and were generally absorbed by it. Although we enjoyed our time in Singapore it certainly is a place that feels overdone and excessive and it did leave us with the feeling that it might be better for everyone if some of Singapore's wealth was shared with Indonesia!

Checking in and out of Singapore was relatively straightforward although routing across and around the shipping lanes took some serious concentration. The busy shipping lanes continue up the Melacca Straight and we are currently traveling about 2 miles inshore of the north west bound lane and in moderate visibility can see about 15 large ships at any one time. Firefly's sails came out for about 2 hours yesterday and the engine was switched off - the first time since re entering the northern hemisphere several days ago. Today there has been little wind so far and it looks at present that the whole day will be under engine.

Firefly's circum navigation has up until recently been brilliant for many days of fast downwind sailing in the trades. However once Firefly reached about 2/3rds of the way (heading north west) through Indonesia - Firefly may as well be a motor boat! At least the diesel was good value in Indonesia - the last fill up was at Tanyang Pinang where it cost about £0.30 per litre! The draw back is that it is always a jerry can fill.....so lots of lugging fuel around which is pretty hard work in the intense heat.

Last night we anchored off Pisang Island and tonight the intended destination is Water Island, 67 miles away and just south of Melacca City. We are not yet checked into Malaysia and will do so at Port Dickson tomorrow and will not go ashore until then. At the Admiral Marina at Port Dickson we join the month long Sail Malaysia Rally which has about 60 yachts taking part. Its sponsored by the Malaysian Government, costs very little and results in good marina discounts - hence why nearly all the yachts cruising towards Thailand are taking part.

Paul and Susie
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