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Paw Paw - Log Day 186: A Generosity and Kindness that is Humbling



After another very unsettling night and no explanation as to the weather we were experiencing having analysed the various forecasts to death and having seen the cloud formations that had signified the passing of the unforecasted cold front from Monday night, we eventually found a synoptic chart buried in the bowels of NOAA's (National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration) radiofaxes which depicted the actuals.



Within 24 hours of the first front passing, we had a second unforecasted, more intense one pass over us this morning, neither of which had been shown on any forecast we had looked at prior to our departure from Bora Bora or those we'd downloaded on route and after our arrival, leaving us to believe that we could enter and remain in this atoll for a few days without the risk of any adverse weather. Relieved that we weren't losing our minds, we were able to make what we'd hope are some sensible decisions on the next best steps.

Comfortable in the knowledge that the weather should start to clear during the course of the day and, right on cue, it did, we were eventually able to get to shore this afternoon.



We enjoyed a walk around the beautiful little beach which we have been looking at longingly for days, with its hammocks and swings hanging from coconut palms. We then headed through the trees to the "house" of the rangers; a very basic, albeit functional open-air building where we were warmly welcomed. A short tour of the premises revealed the original building that Tom Neale had built and lived in before his death in 1978 and was now re-purposed as a "book swap" library. However, it was the multitude of huge hermit crabs and the enormous coconut crab that left us in awe. Fortunately we didn't arrive empty-handed; the freshly baked soda bread and various adult beverages were definitely well received.



After a wonderful chat with the rangers and completing our clearing out process, we said our goodbyes and returned to Paw Paw, where we were greeted by our security detail - our newly adopted handful of black-tipped sharks that have circled the yacht since our arrival.



Then, feeling very despondent about our sailing experience thus far, where we've spent numerous days and nights aboard, while being pinned to precarious leeshores of coral reefs due to bad weather and having to jam in our activities of yet another destination into a precious few hours or indeed forego many, one act of kindness changes our perspective on an instant.



Following our short visit ashore, we observed the rangers exiting the lagoon in their tiny boat in very lumpy seas and pouring rain. A little concerned for their safety, we keep a watchful eye and are relieved to see them return to the dock about an hour later. Then, with a huge smile one of the rangers brings us their gift - a rainbow runner which they had just caught and filleted for us. The generosity and kindness from people with so little is not only staggering, but humbling!



So, tomorrow, with a renewed enthusiasm, we embark on our three day passage to American Samoa.



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