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Firefly - Cruising New Caledonia's Southern Lagoon



Firefly's week of cruising in New Caledonia's Southern Lagoon has been really fantastic. Iles Des Pins was incredibly beautiful and en route back to Noumea we stopped at an off lying island called Illot Mato which was equally stunning. The weather has been really settled and the trade winds have dropped down to below 10 knots so everything is calmer than usual. In all we had 5 nights anchored off Iles Des Pins, spending 3 of these in the really well protected anchorage at Kuto and the other 2 off Illot Brosse, which we described in detail in the last posting.

On Tuesday (28th October) accompanied by Martin and Elizabeth from Caduceus we hired a car for a tour of Iles Des Pins. The main attraction was the 'piscine naturelle' on the north east of the island, this being best described as a lagoon within a lagoon. After walking for about 15 minutes from where we left the car, on an island and along the waters edge amongst the pine trees, we reached a vivid blue pool that was already quite busy with snorkelers. A cruise ship was in again and although a little overrun with its passengers, the pool was so good that we soon forgot we were sharing it with them all. The water was crystal clear and the marine life abundant. In particular the clams were really numerous and such an wide array of colours. We also saw a couple of pipefish that we studied for some time as they are closely related to sea horses.

Following the swim we walked around the island and up a dry sandy river bed. The river bed is more a route the sea follows when the tide is in - a really interesting landscape. We stopped at various places on the island during the day and being yachtsmen, made sure we had a look at all of the potential anchorages - our conclusion was however that Kuto and Illot Brosse were actually the best. As we neared Kuto towards the end of the day we visited a well kept cemetry and a derelict prison both remnants of when New Caledonia was a penal colony. While there we got talking to a couple from Paris who in good 'Anglais' explained the history to us. The period was the 1870's, so some 30 or 40 years after the revolution that 'Les Miserables' is based upon - but a very similar occurence. Many of the prisoners who were forced to undertake the 6 month voyage to New Caledonia were skilled craftsmen from the Paris communes and hence were known as the 'Communards' - they were eventually given a pardon and many of those that survived did go back to France.

We left Kuto early on Thursday morning as the next cruise ship arrived. The bay is not very deep so they anchor a long way off and the passengers are shipped ashore in smaller boats - so in fact it does not disturb the tranquility. Our destination was Illot Mato about half way back (35 miles) to Noumnea, a small off lying island, within the Southern Lagoon of New Caledonia, that is surrounded by coral. There is an area between the coral which is sand and is about 6 metres deep and makes an ideal and spectacular light weather anchorage. We were traveling in company with our good friends Brent, James and Sarah on our 'buddy boat - Aurora Star'. She is 42 feet long but a very different design to Firefly, like a British Fisher design - so very seaworthy but heavy and somewhat less sleek.

They managed to get their anchor up and head off about an hour and half before giving us a call on the radio to say they were just about to hoist their spinnaker and that we should 'get a move on!'. The wind was circa 6 or 7 knots so their sailing was slow and we soon caught up by motor sailing. Then after a photo session the wind reached 10 knots and Aurora Star was making 5 knots, the same as Firefly under just main and jib. So then we hoisted and unfurled the Gennaker and we had already done an hours snorkeling at Illot Mato before they arrived!

The snorkeling was wonderful, despite the water being relatively cold. The area is really pristine, the coral in perfect condition and the fish life abundant. As we were saying goodbye the next day we had a BBQ on board Firefly, grilled the 2 coral trout that Brent had managed to spear and then we taught them all how to play 'nomination whist'. Aurora Star got there own back for the day and chalked up a victory with beginner James proving he was a very quick learner.

Firefly is now en route back to Noumea having left Illot Mato at 0700. We are planning to stop and climb up the famous lighthouse at Isle Amedee and swim on the reef en route. Listening to the excellent Gulf Harbour Radio at 0615 this morning - New Zealand metreologist Dave explained that a good weather window for the forthcoming passage is forming so it is possible we may be leaving before the 5th November as scheduled - we will find out more when we reach Noumea.

Paul and Susie



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