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03/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 84: Reconnecting with Cattiva

After a blustery day yesterday,the clouds parted today and we got to snorkel under sunny skies in crystal clear blue, warm waters. It was a very unusual snorkel in that it was nothing like anything we had seen before.The fish,while plentiful, were not brightly coloured,with the exception of the sergeant majors and some tiny bright blue fish. The rest, including the parrotfish and angelfish were all dark, almost camouflaged against the volcanic rock. Also, the habitat was not a coral reef,but rocks with large coral formations growing on them. The formations looked like giant-sized carnation flowers. Very pretty in its own strange way.Now, however,under a clear, starry moonless sky we sail to Oa Poo, where we willmeet up with our cruising friends Maria and Maurice on Cattiva. So looking. read more...


Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!
02/04/2016

Starblazer - 02/04/2016 - Staying on plan!

We spent two nights on Carriacou.John had offered me dinner ashore however I suggested lunch instead.At the current stage in the moon's cycle it doesn't get up until after midnight and the anchorage was very dark.It was also quite crowded so we had fears of driving the dinghy in circles looking for Starblazer.The village in Tyrrel Bay is very small, with numerous cafe/bars, a few vegetable stalls and a few tiny 'supermarkets' which certainly do not live up to their name!Next time we'll visit Hillsborough, the capital, either anchor off or go by taxi.Our trip to Union Island didn't quite go as planned.We pulled up the anchor, motored out of the bay then sailed just about all the way to Union Island.Clifton, the capital where we needed to clear in, is at the eastern end of the island which. read more...


02/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 83: "Flat as a Pancake"

After a fairly blustery night, we woke to a wet, rainy and overcast day, so our plans for a walk on the beach and a snorkel went out the window or, should we say, out the port hole. Instead Elaine spent the day indoors sorting out and cataloging all our photos as well as writing a new article, which are now all ready to be uploaded to our website and gallery, just as soon as we get a decent wifi connection. She also decided it would be a great idea to do a cooked breakfast this morning and make buttermilk pancakes.Unfortunately they all came out as "flat as a pancake",we think, as a result of our baking powder going off.In reality though, were not altogether sure what caused the flop, but we ate them nonetheless. Roy on the otherhand was way more physical today as he completed the. read more...


01/04/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 32. Tahuata and Fatu Hiva. 10.27.90S 138.40.10W

Wednesday 23 March.The delightful Frenchman recommended by Laurent was clearly an expert in dealing with unhappy outboards.He came to see us shortly after breakfast, knew exactly what was required and The Skipper was able to fix the problem once the solution was explained.He refused payment as it was so easy to fix so we gave him a bottle of wine as we were very grateful for his help and for the fact that we could greet Carango without embarrassment, particularly as they were now in the Bay.We made sure we had paid for the laundry and fruit and then informed the WARC Office that we were leaving for Tahuata. The Skipper and Anthony set about getting the stern anchor up, no easy task as the mud in Tahauku seemed to have sucked in the anchor and which required the help of another strong. read more...


01/04/2016

Firefly - Laying up in Malaysia

Today is Friday 1st April and Firefly is anchored on the west side of Pangkor Island. Tomorrow morning we are motoring around to Pangkor Marina and will have 2 nights afloat while we finish decommissioning and then be hauled out on Monday. We have been here for 2 days and are working as hard as we can to get the boat ready for the forthcoming 5 month lay up. However, its baking hot and apparently there is a heatwave in Malaysia at present, so work can only be done early in the morning and in the evening. Its not so bad - the hot, middle part of the day we have spent on the beach at the superb Nipah Deli. Eating lunch, meeting their hand fed Hornbill and then sitting in their sun loungers under a huge almond tree - complete with monkeys dropping almonds on customers.Going back a week, we. read more...


01/04/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm

Today was a mixed bag.Elaine started the day off with her exercises on the foredeck - The first time since leaving St Lucia. Ready for the day, she then enjoyed a nice chat to Keenan and, after breakfast, baked a Banana Loaf. She then spent the rest of the day sorting out photos in the hope of being able to upload them all when we get to Nuku Hiva in a week or so.Roy started the day off by cleaning the hulls - The first time since leaving La Playita,Panama. After breakfast he attempted to fix our gas barbecue,but to no avail - A new part is needed. He then investigated the source of the problem with our fridge - Fortunately it's the controller and not the compressor, but nonetheless,another new part needs to be purchased.Before we knew it, the day was over and we were saying goodbye to. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day  82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day 82: A Strange Calm
Paw Paw - Log Day  82: A Strange Calm
01/04/2016

Exody - Days 433-442: Epic, Lobster, Turtles, Barracuda

We have today anchored in Tobago Cays, that pearl of the Grenadines that still matches or indeed tops most of the special places we have visited around the world.But it is much more commercial and organised now with beach barbecue and other services like baguette delivery, mooring buoys, national park rangers etc.We share the main anchorage between Jamesby and Baradal with about 40 other craft.The water is the same translucent turquoise we remember and the turtles far more plentiful.It's Wednesday 30th March and ten days since our last log- ten days spent making our way up from south Grenada via St David's Harbour, then a close hauled sail to windward of Grenada for Tyrell Bay Carriacou and on to Clifton Harbour, Union Island, Petit St Vincent (PSV) and Chatham, Union Island.Union has. read more...


31/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners

It was a bright and early start for us this morning as we headed to Tahuata. Not long after we departed we had a convoy with Barbara Jean, Do Over and Belafonte following in hot pursuit.It was a great sail on headsail alone in 15 to 18 kts of wind which allowed us the opportunity to arrive in plenty of time to explore the various anchorages before deciding where we wanted to anchor for the next few days. We eventually decided on Baie Hanamoenoa or, as it is fondly referred to as "Stephen's Bay", named after the loan inhabitant who lives just off the beautiful sandy beach. As it turned out, half of the WARC fleet had also decided this idyllic bay was the best spot. After a snorkel, followed by early sundowners on Paw Paw with the folks off Belafonte, we all headed over to Widago to join. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners
Paw Paw - Log Day 81: Sundowners Followed by More Sundowners
30/03/2016

Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts

How do you provision your boat?A buying spree at the box store or sourcing local food products?Our new French friends have a great ability to save money and eat healthy.They collect their own papaya, mangos, bananas, shrimp, crabs, fish, lobster and hot peppers. (I think some of this is a moral grey area driven by land ownership).Others pick their own fruits and vegetables, but what impressed me with our friends was their purchase of a hen for fresh eggs.The previous time they tried this, while cruising Senegal, the plan failed because they bought a male.However this bird is also not producing eggs due to stress.The bulk of her life has been passage making over 3,000 miles of rolly seas. Tonight while at their boat for drinks we noticed that live crabs were trying to break out of the. read more...


Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81  Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81 Random Thoughts
Two Fish - Day 81  Random Thoughts
30/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity

Today, in the company of the WARC participants from Do Over, Giampi, Belafonte and Waterman, we enjoyed a hike to a beautiful waterfalls about an hour from town.It didn't take long for all of us to strip down to our swimware and take the plunge to cool off as soon as we arrived. We did, however, take the time to dry off on the rocks and enjoy our picnic lunch before heading back. Good times indeed!The hospitality and generosity of this little settlement continues to surprise us though. As the majority of our group made its way along the mainstreet en route to the waterfall, a few folks branched off to trade a fishing lure for some grapefruits - a common practice around the islands. Not only did they successfully complete the trade, but they re-joined the group bearing the most delicious. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
Paw Paw - Log Day 80: Unexpected Hospitality and Generosity
30/03/2016

Luna Quest - Wednesday, 30th March, 2016

Position: 13.01N 61.14W BEQUIADistance from Carriacou: 39 logged milesOn Thursday, 24th March, at 8.30am we set sail for Union Island (10 miles). Strong trade winds from the East made our passage quite rough, but with the help of the engine, a triple reefed mainsail and the genoa furled, we arrived at 11am. One of the boat boys helped us to an excellent mooring buoy.On Tuesday, 29th March, at 8.30 we set sail for Bequia (29 miles) in fresh easterly trade winds. It was a close reach on one tack and arrived in Admiral's Bay, Bequia, at 13.30, where we were lucky enough to be directed to the last available mooring buoy. Eric. read more...


29/03/2016

Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action

Yesterday, there was a boat approaching our anchorage in distress on the VHF radio.It was a 35 foot Catalina, a boat designed for coastal day sailing and often maligned as a blue water boat.They had left Panama 38 days ago with a Captain and two crew.Fifteen days into the journey, the starboard inner shroud (holds up the mast) parted.There are additional shrouds that secure the mast so the rig did not fall down, but this is a perilous situation for a boat 1,000 miles from land and 2,000 miles from their destination.The crew used lines to secure the broken shroud and kept sailing towards the Marquesas with only a jib.The trip became a blur.The boat traveled at 4 knots and sometimes slower.The crew started forgetting the date and long ago ran out of their favorite provisions.Spirits stayed. read more...


Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day  79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day 79 Harbor Action
Two Fish - Day  79 Harbor Action
29/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 79: "Don't Judge a Book by its Cover"

We woke to a cloudy, rainy day as well as the anchorage emptying out as WARC yachts headed for the rendezvous in Huku Hiva. However,by mid-morning the rain had passed,the clouds had lifted and the sun peeked through, revealing the most stunning scenery. I guess the Bay of Virgins lived up to its reputation after all.Excited to get a shore and explore,we launched the dinghy and headed to the concrete pier neatly tucked behind a small breakwater.With only 600 inhabitants,it didn't take long to see the little settlement and walk out of town to enjoy the surroundings.En route a car stopped to greet us and introduce themselves.What followed next was something very unexpected - The driver asked us if we would like a freshly baked baquette. Is the Pope Catholic? Of course, but when Roy went to. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 79: "Don't Judge a Book by its Cover"
Paw Paw - Log Day 79:
29/03/2016

Starblazer - 28/03/2016 - Another day, another anchorage.

We dropped the mooring in Dragon Bay on the west coast of Grenada soon after 0830 and started sailing northwards along the coast.It was not the kind of sailing I like, the wind jumping between a comfortable 12-14 knots to an uncomfortable 20-24!I can get used to any angle of heel given time but when the boat suddenly28/03/2016 - Another day, another anchorage. lays over after some gentle sailing I just don't like it.John hand steered for the first couple of hours to save the batteries, however the wind backed, pushing us more to the north rather than North East, then it died completely so we started the engine and motor sailed.The wind was only kidding and came back strongly so we continued motor sailing, tacking in towards the shore then away again (you can sail closer to the wind. read more...


28/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 78: "Beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder"

Saying goodbye to Hiva Oa yesterday was just in the nick of time as we motored out ahead of a large squall which soaked the island behind us. Heading for the sunshine and blue skies, we were excited to see Fatu Hiva, the only island in the Marquesas that was on Elaine's wishlist to see. Having read articles about it in sailing magazines and having it quoted in Essential Sailing Destinations: "Hanavave on Fatu Hiva, with its towering rock formations, is widely considered to be one of the most beautiful bays in the world",was a sight worthy of another beat to windward, in high swells, burning precious diesel because the wind was light and in the wrong direction, as far as Elaine was concerned.Well, beauty is most definitely in the eye of the beholder. We arrived in torrential rain with a. read more...


28/03/2016

Starblazer - 27/03/2016 - to or Towards?

If you look in any sailing logbook the top line reads 'From', OK we know our starting point, then it reads 'Towards', not because we don't know where we want to go but rather we don't know where we will finish!Today was a good case in point.We left somewhat later than hoped because the oil change took a lot longer than anticipated then, shortly after pulling the anchor up, we discovered we had no saltwater running through the heat exchanger on the engine.This caused us to cut the engine, pull out the Genoa, sail back into the anchorage and drop the anchor again!The system was quickly primed and we were ready to pull up the anchor again, thank heavens for an electric anchor windlass.Our intended destination today was Carriacou, about 37 nM away.When you think about the adverse currents we. read more...


27/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 77: "In Rome..."

Since we eventually got all our domestic chores out of the way and since we didn't need fuel of any kind (which would have been a rather time-consuming exercise of ferry it by dinghy in jerry cans), it was time to go and play. We started the day off with a ride into town to visit the Paul Gauguin Art Museum, which apperared to be closed,but the doors were unlocked, so we wondered around anyway.From there we visited his gravesite, perched high on the hillside with spectacular views overlooking Atuona. It was here, inside a wall that surrounded one of the graves, that Roy spotted a hen and her chicks which were unable to get out of the confined area in order to eat.Roy,with baguettes tucked under his arm that were purchased earlier, decided to feed them - a gesture that is so typical of. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 77: "In Rome..."
Paw Paw - Log Day 77:
Paw Paw - Log Day 77: "In Rome..."
Paw Paw - Log Day 77:
27/03/2016

Starblazer - 26/03/2016 - More Boat Maintenance in Exotic Locations

Where has the time gone?We arrived two weeks ago but we have barely stopped working on the boat.The guys from Palm Tree Marine came last Monday and removed the generator.During the preceding weekend I started a few canvas jobs as we couldn't leave before the generator was removed and we were waiting for the completion of the service on the little Honda generator.On Tuesday John collected the Honda and visited Palm Tree to see the problem with the generator.It has managed to destroy itself by allowing its exhaust cooling water to penetrate the case and then damage the windings on the electrical side.We have yet to discover whether a replacement electrical unit can be sent from Germany before we leave the Caribbean in early May.We are not very happy.Wednesday was water maker day.John has. read more...


27/03/2016

Luna Quest - Thursday, 24th March, 2016

Noon Position: 12.36N 61.25W Union IslandDistance sailed: 10 milesA very windy passage under triple reefed mainsail and engine hard on the wind from the East/NE.Eric. read more...


27/03/2016

Alcedo of Ryme - Blog 31. Hiva Oa cont. 09.48.23S 139.01.86W

Sunday, 20 March.We took delivery of a smart 4 wheel drive truck after breakfast, courtesy of Laurent, who is the agent and gets things organised here.We set off for a small village on the North side of the Island, where one of the best preserved Polynesian sites is.We had found out about Iipona in the Lonely Planet guide, it is on the outskirts of a village called Puamau, accessible by one of the only two roads shown on the Island.Road is a relative term here, which may refer to a well maintained Tarmac road, a concrete two way or one way road or lane or merely a dirt track with a hard core surface or not as the case may be.Suffice it to say that the female passengers in the back were covering their eyes or begging for less speed or for a greater distance from the precipice beside their. read more...


26/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log 75 & 76: Hunting for the Smell

The past two days have been spent anchoring and re-anchoring - 5 times to be exact - While in the middle of trying to get some much needed cleaning done.The reason - the ARANUI 5. After been told to move in order to be outside the exclusion zone, which is demarcated inside the breakwater, so that the ship had ample manoeuvring room, we were then told to move again as a new exclusion zone outside the breakwater was apparently in force,but not communicated until after we had re-anchored.By now there were no good options left so we had no choice, but to anchor so far out that we may as well have been in the open ocean. Then, a stroke of luck - A motor yacht left affording us the opportunity to take their spot, but to no avail.Unfortunately we had to endure the moans and groans of another. read more...


Paw Paw - Log 75 & 76: Hunting for the Smell
Paw Paw - Log 75 & 76: Hunting for the Smell
25/03/2016

Widago - Final Night: Galapagos-Marquesas Leg

Before setting out on this adventure almost a year and half ago, the most common question I heard was, "What's the longest you'll go without seeing land?" After my reply of about 3,000 miles, just under three weeks, most non-seafaring folks would stare back, glassy eyed, in horror."Three weeks. No land. Trapped on a boat. With your husband and three kids. No way."But what does that really look like? Feel like? My best guess is that most people don't care too much about day 3, or 7, or even 12. Morbid curiosity seems to linger in the dark corners of extremes. What is Day 18 or 19 like? Have you turned to feral cats, unbathed, blackened scurvy teeth, chapped crispy skin, hugging yourself with dilated pupils, rocking back and forth in hopes that a tiny crest of terra firma will magically. read more...


25/03/2016

Firefly - Seahorses, Stonehenge and bidding farewell to Thailand

Today is Friday 25th March 2016 and Firefly is taking us back to Malaysia. After an uncertain start we have really enjoyed cruising the west coast of Thailand and believe that 10 weeks was about the right amount of time for us to make the most of cruising around here.For the last 3 days we have been in the Butang Islands, the small one called Koh Lipe being the most well known - this where back in early January we first entered Thailand. Over the past few days we have been diving with a predominantly French owned and run company called Forra Diving. Their dive boats are way past the best but their 'can do' attitude was great and we were very well looked after and managed to dive twice on 'Stonehenge', the best site in the area - despite it being Spring Tides and the location being very. read more...


24/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 74: Some Well Deserved, but Needed R&R

Although each of us had our own bizarre experience during the night, we still managed to get the rest we needed and woke up this morning feeling slightly more human. The night events included Elaine waking up in a panic thinking she was late for her 0000 to 0300 watch, only to remember we were at anchor and, with a sigh of relief, turned over and went straight back to sleep. Roy,on the other hand , nearly frightened himself to death when he woke up, looked out his port hole and saw land. He dashed out of his cabin and into the saloon thinking Elaine had falllen asleep on her watch and we were about to sail straight into one of the islands, bow first.It was only when he saw the other yachts around us that he too remembered we were at anchor.It was very clear that our decision to spend the. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 74: Some Well Deserved, but Needed R&R
Paw Paw - Log Day 74: Some Well Deserved, but Needed R&R
23/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 73: Our Arrival in Paradise

With the full moon dipping behind Hiva Oa to to west, the sun rising to the east and dolphins frolicking in Paw Paw's bows, we crossed the finish line and arrived in paradise - Our first ocean crossing completed and what a sense of achievement we both have, albeit somewhat surreal. A very emotional time indeed, which was further emphasised when we discovered the most stunning and dramatic scenery as we entered the anchorage of Atuona - not at all what we were expecting. We would like to thank all our family and friends for their prayers and support as well as our wonderful yacht, Paw Paw, which plodded away mile after nautical mile, never faulting, not even once, to get us across this vast ocean safety. Once we were anchored, we made our way ashore to complete all the officialdom and. read more...


Paw Paw - Log Day 73: Our Arrival in Paradise
Paw Paw - Log Day 73: Our Arrival in Paradise
23/03/2016

Luna Quest - 23rd March, 2016

Noon Position: 12.27N 61.29WRun from Grenada: 48 logged milesWe chose yesterday to make the passage from Port Louis in Grenada to Carriacou on a forecast of 15 knots of wind from the East with a little southing in it. We set off at 07.15 from the marina in light rain and had fickle winds all the way up the west coast of Grenada with quite a few squalls giving us winds upto 25 knots and down to 5 knots, but as soon as we were past Grenada, the wind kicked in at around 20 knots from the East with a little northing in it, which sent us north rather than north east towards Carriacou. By 1pm we were level with Carriacou hidden in dense rain. We tacked, but could only make 170 degrees. It took us 4 hours to tack into Tyrrel Bay covering 7.5 miles due east, but at 4pm we could pick up a mooring. read more...


22/03/2016

Paw Paw - Log Day 72: Slowed Down for a Daylight Arrival

Excitement is high as we anticipate our arrival in Hiva Oa tomorrow morning.We had hoped to arrive today, on Elaine's Dad's birthday, but resigned ourselves to the fact yesterday afternoon that we needed to slow down in order to ensure a daylight arrival and accept another night at sea.So tonight, with less than 60NM to go, we sail under a moonlit sky at a slower pace, in the company of Waterman, another WARC participanting yacht, in order to artive in Hiva Oa at daybreak. Our sense of achievement mounts with every new mile sailed and we look forward to "Land Ahoy".To Daddy - Happy Birthday - Hope you had a fabulous day. For all aboard Paw Paw your 81st birthday will also be fondly remembered as the last day at sea of our Pacific Ocean crossing!. read more...


22/03/2016

Two Fish - Day Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva

Our 3,000 mile trip ended with a whimper.The breeze died out 40 miles from Fatu Hiva and we sparked up our engines.The passage was over and I had an odd feeling.Like a guest had left.Yes, it is nice to have peace and quiet, but I already missed our guest, the long passage.Fatu Hiva's harbor is dramatic.First named penis bay by the locals but renamed under pressure from the missionaries Bay of Virgins.The locals got it right as the bay is surrounded by phallic shaped rocks.The cone-shaped bay is carved out of a steep rock gorge resulting in frequent strong gusts.We were greeted by a few boats already in the harbor offering advice "don't anchor near me".One Speedo clad Frenchman had lots to say and proposed we anchor in a tiny space near the rocks with pounding surf."C'est trop petite pour. read more...


Two Fish - Day Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva
Two Fish - Day  Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva
Two Fish - Day Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva
Two Fish - Day  Land Adventures Resume in Fatu Hiva
22/03/2016

Lydia - Lydia's Blog. 15-21 March 2016. Nearly there.

Tuesday 15 March 2016.Another beautiful day with twin headsails (yankee and hankee) still drivingus forward with a SE 18-20 knots from astern. After breakfast Donald setsthe staysail which has the effect of helping to funnel the wind into theyankee and decrease the continuous rolling. Alvaro did his washing on theafter deck and amused the rest of the crew by his gyrations trying to keephimself stable and his bucket of washing on a equally gyrating deck! At noonour Lat 08d 59' S Long 119d 02'W with the day's run of 176 miles and 1175miles to go with our speed 7.5 knots. It has been agreed that the morningARC radio round up will be brought forward 1 hour to 1100hrs but to retainthe 1800hrs roll call. Still a lumpy sea.Wednesday 16 March 2016.Yet another beautiful hot day with clear skies.. read more...



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