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Paw Paw - Log Days 248 & 249: A Tongan Feast and Faka Leite



Yesterday we completed the last of our preparation activities for our departure to Fiji, including tracking down Fijian dollars, topping up on some provisioning and inquiring about the correct customs and immigration procedures for clearing out, since we had cleared in to Tonga via Niuatoputapu. At the same time we were granted special permission to avoid taking Paw Paw to the Customs Wharf prior to clearing due to Elaine's limitations with her back and ankle.

Once all that was taken care off, we could look forward to our planned evening event - A boat trip to a Tongan Feast in Utulei Village on Pangaimotu Island, which also included a celebratory kava ceremony. We did not partake in the latter as we had experienced one in Samoa, but everyone on Nina did.

Prior to the ceremony though, we enjoyed the music and dancing laid on by the villagers. In particular, the tau'olunga, which is a solo dance where an individual performer, glistening with coconut oil, illustrates the song lyrics with her motions. Appreciation for the skilled dancing is shown by sticking pa'anga (dollar) bills on the oiled skin of the dancer. While the dance is being performed. Sometimes another person will jump up and accompany the dancer, drawing attention to her and showing appreciation for her expertise. Tongan dancing is a combination of sensitive hand motions with graceful choreography. What made this occasion so special is that most of the dancing was performed by children, ages four and seven, with toddlers joining in whenever they wanted to.

As for the feast itself, it was more like a banquet with most of the food prepared using a traditional underground oven called an umu. The feast included roasted piglet on a split, ota ika (raw fish) in coconut cream and spices, stuffed clams, steamed red snapper, octopus, mei (breadfruit) and plantain chips, curry and rice, ufi (yam), , talo (taro), manioke (cassava), barbecued chicken, various salads and carrot cake for dessert. We definitely didn't leave hungry and it was delicious.

After we were drop back at the dock, we joined the crowds at the Bounty Bar for the Faka Leite show. In Polynesia, including French Polynesia, there is a custom that the youngest child, regardless of gender, is responsible for looking after the parents in their old age. If the youngest happens to be a boy, then he is raised completely as a girl to ensure the child grows up to have all the caregiving qualities necessary for the role. As such, there is an officially recognised third gender that represents this sector of the population and is accepted as the norm in society.

The Faka Leite show is performed by these "girls" and was very entertaining indeed. Roy has yet to get over the psychological trauma of being kissed on the cheek by one of them, while Steve hid behind Lynda and Peter pretended to be looking the other way so as not t o be approached. It was a laugh just watching the reaction of the men in the audience.

Today we got through some last minute chores and then enjoyed another games night on Paw Paw with Nina in an effort to get rid of all our alcohol on board vs paying extortionate duties in Fiji. Not sure we achieved the objective, but we managed to make a significant dent in the supply!

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