Daily Logs

Endo 2 - Galapagos

Hallo nun sind wir also auf Galapagos -- eine eigene Inselwelt. Eigentlich unvorstellbar - ein Traum und nun sind wir hierNach strengen Regeln geprüft und Eintrittsgeld bezahlt, danach hatten wir die Erlaubnis 3 Inseln anzulaufen. Die erste Insel war Cristobal, dort wurden wir von der ARC Truppe begrüßt. Cristobal ist eine der älteren Inseln - und wir haben sie die Seelöweninsel getauft. Seelöwen wohin man schaut, auf Schiffen, auf Parkbänken, auf den Anlegern für die Wassertaxis, am Strand teilweise auch auf den Wegen. Die Tiere sind völlig entspannt, reagieren kaum auf die Zweibeiner und wissen.....mir gehört die Insel sowieso.Im Segelplan hatten wir uns für Isabela als 2. Station entschieden. Eine kurzfristige Änderung wegen des fehlenden Windes war nicht möglich.Also auf nach Isabela. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 47 February 28, 2019

Early start..,we picked up a Toyota pick up truck taxi for a speedy journey across the island where we met Sergio, our park guide for the day. Altogether ten folks were on a magnificent journey aboard a small but might motor boat. We visited Daphne major, Daphne minor, a pristine white sugar sand beach, where the sea turtles had laid their eggs, and marine iguanas reigned supreme in the bush. Several places Sergio had Captain drop us off for snorkelling in the most obscure places. Sea lions, sharks, multitudes of colourful fish, and lovely turtles and rays were spotted.Onboard I captured hours of bird videos; frigates, two types of boobies, gulls, terns, herons and the elusive, gorgeous tropical bird. Altogether a perfect touring day. At 16:30 the taxi brought us back to town, we. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 46 February 27,2019

After a pre dawn start, we motored from San Cristobal to Santa Cruz. It was a flat, calm, no wind, no waves day,yet it wasn’t a pleasant journey for our family members, except seeing jumping rays and fish. We made it to the anchorage at 16:00. Dropped the hook in pouring rain, settled the boat, then enjoyed chicken enchiladas onboard in a very pretty sunset.One positive aspect of the terrible rainy weather is the gorgeous sunrises and sunsets the huge clouds generate. We dressed the boat, saluted our neighbors, chilled out and then Lars and family went ashore and booked tours for the next couple of days. Just living the Sweet Dream in Santa Cruzimage1.. read more...

SKY - February 26, 2019 – Galapagos-Los Tuneles

We took the tour to Los Tuneles today and it was spectacular.It is a 25 mile high speed boat ride out of Puerto Villamil to a lava field that meets the water.The Tuneles are a maze of narrow water ways that the boats somehow navigate while nearly touching the rocks on either side of the boat.The water is crystal clear and the landscape is famous for the many rock archways which are too numerous to count.The tour included a short hike over some pretty treacherous terrain.You could look down into the water and see large fish and sea turtles.Across the rocky terrain you could see a variety of birds including Blue Footed Boobies which are currently nesting. Besides the hike the tour included a chance to snorkel through Los Tuneles which was truly an incredible experience.Right away we were. read more...

SKY - February 24, 2019 – Galapagos – Kicker Rock At Sunset

In the late afternoon we left Isla San Christobal for Isla Isabela but decided first to take a detour that would take us to Kicker Rock.As we circled what might be the most recognized landmark of the Galapagos we were treated to one of the best sunsets to date in our trip around the world.Sailing for the Leukemia and Lymphoma SocieetyChris Gourley blog size. read more...

SKY - February 23, 2019 – Galapagos-Is The Dollar Facing Extinction Here?

It seems the dollar is facing extinction here in the Galapagos.If you buy something at a store they will leave you alone in the store and run to the business next door to ask if they have change.If the item is six dollars and you try to pay for it with a ten dollar bill they will ask for a dollar so they can give you a five dollar bill instead of giving you four one dollar bills.If you ask a restaurant to crack a five dollar bill so you can leave a tip, and I’m serious about this, they would prefer not to have a tip.I asked a business owner if there was a problem with counterfeiting because all change seemed to come as one dollar coins but then you have to wonder who would be crazy enough to be counterfeiting one dollar bills.She said that perhaps in Ecuador counterfeiting might be a. read more...

SKY - February 22, 2019 – Galapagos- A Quick Tour Of Isla San Christobal

We took a tour of Isla San Cristobal today that included a hike up to Laguna El Junco.It is one of the few fresh water lakes on the island and lies in a collapsed caldera 700 meters above sea level.The next stop was the Centro De Crianza De Tortugas Terrestres David Rodrigues.At one time there were 14 different species of tortoises in the Galapagos but today three of those species are extinct.Since the current population of tortoises on San Cristobal has been reduced in population size and range it is feared that an environmental catastrophe could entirely wipe out the endemic species.The third stop was a run to the beach where we caught sight of some Blue Footed Boobies and some rays that were frolicking just off the beach.Sailing for the Leukemia and Lymphoma SocietyChris Gourley. read more...

SKY - February 21, 2019 – Galapagos- Swimming With The Fishes… And The Hammerheads

Did the SCUBA tour to Kicker Rock today which is one of the best snorkeling and dive sites in the Galapagos.It is a great place to see reef sharks and hammerheads and we saw plenty of both.However one of the coolest moments happened early in the dive when we came across a wall of fish with each fish being much like a brick in the wall.You could actually swim through the school with the fish first parting then swirling around you to get back to their place in the wall.Sailing for the Leukemia and Lymphoma SocietyChris Gourley Dive 3 Kicker Rock. read more...

SKY - February 20, 2019 - Isla San Christobal

We arrived in the Galapagos on the 20th and crossed the finish line at 8:30 am.What a treat to pull into an unfamiliar port in daylight but not really all that difficult if you’ve been motoring for four days.So as we arrived at Isla San Christobal we saw Kicker Rock for the first in the golden light of a new day. As we motored towards the finish line what amazed me was how green Isla San Chirstobal was.The second thing I thought was how much it reminded me of Maui minus the city of Lahaina and big hotels.Perhaps this is what Maui looked like some 500 years ago?When we arrived and had anchored we couldn’t get off SKY until we went through a thorough an inspection. I’m not sure there is any place where more people come onto your boat to pass you through customs.There were 11 total counting. read more...

SKY - February 19, 2019 - Equator -A Beautiful Metamorphosis

We crossed the equator today.We are no longer Slimy Pollywogs but instead Shellbacks. This unusual look at the exact moment we made that transition was taken using our 360 camera.Sailing for the Lymphoma and Leukemia SocietyChris GourleyCrossing Equator 1. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 45 February 26, 2019

This day was the best in Galapagos. We took a tour in a nice power boat with only a dozen people onboard. First, we enjoyed the birds...terns, frigates, boobies, pelicans, then there were sea turtles everywhere. We arrived at Tortuga, went ashore in the dinghy and had a fabulous walk across the lava fields. We saw mocking birds, small green snakes, herons, blue footed boobies and goat skeletons! It was fascinating to be in such a desert landscape right next to the sea. Next the boat took us to the most pristine white, sugar sand beach. We swam , cartwheeled on the sand, watched the birds feeding then swam back to the boat in the pouring rain. The sun came out, the sky was blue, and Hugo fed us the most amazing meal as we enjoyed giant rays drifting under the boat and schools of fish. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 44 February 25, 2019

Woke to a beautiful morning in the anchorage, we had a rather gentle start, coffee, breakfast, catching upon family news. We decided to walk over to the snorkel spot, relax on a beach, and visit the information center. The information center was interesting, the boardwalk to the snorkel beach really pleasant. The snorkel area was not a beach, but a very cleverly designed area for hanging up stuff amongst the spider infested trees, and a rock dock covered with crabs to descend into the water. Lars, Dave, and Karen snorkelled and I enjoyed watching sea lions, marine iguanas and birds. It began to rain, and suddenly we were in the heaviest downpour imaginable! Karen and I took off, trying to “ hurry” back to the boat, as we had foolishly left all our hatches open. Well, suffice it to say,. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 43 February 24, 2019

Today Dave, Lars’ brother, and Karen, Dave’s daughter arrived from the US. We took them to happy hour after getting their stuff settled in the boat. It was so lovely to share the wonderful fellowship of the Yellow shirt team and our friendly rally community with some of our family. The sea lions and creepy red crabs at the dock were a welcoming committee of sorts, and introducing Dave and Karen to life on board an anchored boat, traveling by water taxi, rolling side to side, being entertained by wildlife , was fun. We had a rather late supper of lasagna and toast and salad on board, and turned in for aSweet Dream.image1.. read more...

Tintin - Fresh Face

Hello, Steve here adding to the blog for the first time. I arrived 2 days ago from home on three flights which all went smoothly until the end. After the 1 1/2 hour flight of the last leg from Guayaquil, the approach seemed a bit lumpy and the pilot then soared away to go round for another go, This happened twice more after which he turned around and went back to the start. Information was scarce, but we gathered in the end that we were refuelling and going back to try again.  All communications were meant to be off during refuelling so apologies for the lack of information to anyone following my progress. Second attempt was fine and I was met by Rob who told me that everywhere had been under water at the time of the first attempts and they had not actually seen the plane at. read more...

Misto - February 19-21 2019: Vibrant Rio de Janeiro

We flew from Salvador to Rio on February 18 for three nights in Rio, arranged by Bahia travel in Salvador, who did a really great job. It was Howard’s first time to Rio but Ros had been to the world congress of psychiatry there in 1993.We stayed at a hotel on Copacabana beach with a beautiful view from our room up and down the coast. The first night it rained but we took an Uber to a local steak restaurant where we had a great meal.The next day we enjoyed a private tour to Christ The Redeemer and Sugar Loaf.Our guide, Patricia was really good and tried her best to help us avoid the lines, as two cruise ships were in town.The Christ the Redeemer statue is as Impressive as Ros remembered with great views over Rio. But it was the views from Sugar Loaf that were really stunning.Unfortunately. read more...

SKY - February 24th, 2019 - Kicker Rock at Sunset-Galapagos

In the late afternoon we left Isla San Christobal and took a detour to Kicker Rock before heading to Isla Isabela.As we circled what might be the most recognized landmark in the Galapagos, we were treated to one of the best sunsets to date in this trip around the world.Sailing for the Leukemia and Lymphoma SocietyChris Gourley. read more...

Timshel - Salvador to Cabadelo TUES 26 Feb

Still plodding north.We have had some wind but it comes and goes.After all the downwind sailing around the world you forget how long it takes when you have to tack back and fore against the wind.We have been trying to keep at least 30nmoffshore, as soon as you get within soundings you find loads of small fishing boats, not sure what gear they have out.they do not have AIS but are quite brightly lit.Of course there may be others that are not lit that we do not see so best to stay out of the way.. read more...

Timshel - Salvador to Cabadelo Mon 25 Feb

Left Salvador Friday morning, the marina there was nice and Dominic (Marina Manager) and Alex spoke good English and very helpful.we were shortly followed by Airpower and misto and we had set up a schedule for SSB with them, joined next day by Pretaixte and Aranui who had just left them later Blue Pearl and Callisto, so we have quite a convoy.Not much wind so a lot of motorsailing and it has steadilymoved more ahead from SE to E and sometimes NE.We have managed to sail for a couple of 12 hr periods but making long tacks to stay offshore away from the fishing vessels etc progress is slow.We will head for Cabadelo unless we decide to stop earlier atRecife or Maceio to get fuel.. read more...

Makara of Exe - Makara of Exe

So here we are in the Galapagos Archipelago. Warm seas and a warm welcome from the local population both aquatic andland based. The Sea Lions have been amusing us all day and all evening in thereattempts to join the crews of many of the fleet on deck for sundowner drinks. The boat protection systems being more and more sophisticated daily.The wildlife is absolutely amazing with marine iguanas, turtles, tortoises, sharks, rays, boobies (both red and blue foot)and a wonderful array of fish and birds. Darwin must have been overwhelmed when he set foot on these shores back in the mid 1800's.The crew have managed to stay on the passage from Las Perlas with a celebration as we passed over the equator into the southern hemisphere toasted with a glassof champagne or two, or maybe three! The. read more...

Smoke and Roses - East Meets West

February 5 – 10Ascension IslandThis tiny volcanic mass hidden in the vast Atlantic brings us to a simpler time with unique natural wonders and a quaint wholesome lifestyle. During our five day stay on Ascension Island we got to experience one of natures’ natural wonders, visit the residential and military fire stations, hike the amazing Green Mountain, do some touring and snorkeling as well as work on our boats. Kitty at the port office helped us with immigration, customs, fuel orders, rental vehicles, tours and repair services. A short walk up the hill was the main square in the heart of Georgetown, there was a chandlery and the Saints Club with food and drink. They made a tuna noodle pasta bake just for our group. Here we said goodbye to the crew of “Pinta” who was sailing on to Cape. read more...

Smoke and Roses - We Are "GOBOW"

Logged 758 Nautical Miles, 122.5 Hours111.75 Hours Sailing 10.75 Hours MotoringJanuary 31 - February 10St Helena to Ascension IslandI must have been an island girl in a past life as I can’t seem to get enough of theses remote islands with their diverse mountain hikes, stunning beaches, unique flora and fauna as well as the laid back lifestyle of the friendly islanders. In additions to doing some unique hikes on Ascension Island we got to watch the endangered green turtle lay eggs on Long Beach, just inshore from our anchorage.Ascension Island is approximately 700 miles north of St Helena, both islands are UK overseas territories sharing similar climate and remote geographical locations in the South Atlantic between Africa and South America, yet they differ greatly in terrain and ecology.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 42 February 23, 2019

We met with our tour group very early in the morning. Took a lovey bus ride across the island to the turtle breeding site. Here we saw lots and lots of the giant tortoises endemic to San Cristobal. The little ones, not much bigger than a man’s fist, lived in cages to protect them from rats and feral cats! It was like a school, turtles of all sizes in varying degrees of protective environments, and huge ones wandering about. Nicky had just asked the guide if the turtles made any vocalisation, when we received our answer! During mating, the males make a loud cow -like sound, and the female sighs aloud. Well, well, what a treat. Our guide said it was very unusual to see the turtles mating, and this was our lucky day! Back to the bus, our water bottles were refilled after a short journey and. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 41 February 22, 2019

A lovely day! Boat chores done in the morning inside and out, then the afternoon was spent eating lunch and enjoying the company of the crews of Danica, Endo2, Nica, Nikitoo, and Tintin.We spent the afternoon obtaining a SIM card and trying to get it to work. It was quite a project, lots of folks helped us, and by 19:00 we had a functioning phone! It turned out to be one of those,”it takes a village” things, haha, fortunately we are part of a lovely “village” of fellow cruisers. After happy hour we checked in with Emily, at the Islander’s tour office, grabbed a delicious ice cream,then shared a water taxi back to our Sweet Dream with Ed, Gemma, Eva and Henry of Aurora B. We think the best part of Galapagos is seeing the delight in the children’s enjoyment of all the critters.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 40 February 21, 2019

We awoke in the anchorage of the scarily named “wreck bay”. All the boats were willy, nilly, there not being enough clean wind to hold them properly off their hooks. Thankfully, there was plenty of room. It is a very rolly place, but we all as one decided to just go with it, and not hassle with stern anchors. In the wee hours of the morning a devilish young sea lion weaseled it’s way through our barrier of fenders and climed the back scoop of the boat. Captain heard it, and ran out and chased it off. I spent another hour weaving a huge macrame net above the fenders and roped all the fenders together as a better fortress against the sea lion raiding parties. Never a dull moment in this crazy zoo! We did boat chores in the morning, then took a water taxi to shore mid afternoon. We strolled. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 39 February 20,, 2019

We cut across the equator at 04:34 in the morning of February 20, 2019. As it was our second transit, there was no need of initiation ceremony. We had completed that four years ago on our first Pacific crossing. This time we had a full-on pirate party...the pirate captain and the sea gypsy crew, all dressed in full reiving regalia ,”cutting up” for the camera, (with sword in teeth), dancing, drinking a short tot of rum, toasting King Neptune in thanks, and engaging in general debauchery. All this done under a full super moon arcing down in its western descent, while Jupiter, Saturn, and Venus rose sparkling in the east. The universe blessed us with balmy breezes, mostly clear skies, smooth seas, enough wind to fill the sail to dampen any roll from the swell, and a perfect timing of the. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 38 February 19, 2019

Today started with exciting sailing as a big squall hit us at 04:00. The 22 knot wind was directly on our nose, making life miserable for all on board. Even the Boobie birds bailed! We short tacked for two hours, seeking a more comfortable angle, yet being loathe to go too far off our rhumb line and loose the precious advantage we had gained. Finally the wind backed off a bit in both velocity and direction, and we were able to head towards Galapagos. The birds returned, bringing friends. Three of them settled on the rail, reminding us of the old Bob Marley song with the lyrics about waking up in the morning with three little birds outside, saying , “this is my message to you; don’t worry about a thing, every little thing is gonna be alright.” The squall has brought a lovely cool front. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 37 February 18, 2019

Another productive day of passage making.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 36 February 17, 2019

A mostly flat, hot day. In the cooler part of the morning we made use of the calm to get several house keeping chores done in preparation to host family company in the Galapagos. We filled the fresh water tanks to overflowing, so the motoring time was not wasted.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 35 February 16, 2019

Morning came. With the daylight we put the code zero reacher back up. It is almost miraculous. In six knots of true wind we can sail at six knots. Unfortunately in five knots of true wind we drop off to three knots. By 14:00 the wind was down to three knots and we were going nowhere. Well, that’s when the engine comes in handy. No sailor enjoys motoring, but with a tight check-in schedule, and family flying in to meet us in Galapagos, it is nice to have the “iron genny”. With so little wind, and a favourable current, the ride is quite comfortable across the wide undulating expanse of grey and silver. The landscape is periodically livened up by the antics of a pod of spinner dolphins. They fling themselves in the air, all in a line, punctuating the dull surface prose with arcing commas,. read more...