Exody - Days 99-101: Marooned off Moorea

....stuck for nearly 24 hours by the relatively high winds of up to 28 knots that discouraged us from making the half mile upwind dinghy trip to the landing place at the village of Papetoia. We were all still thoroughly soaked going ashore this morning, Tuesday 21st April with the winds still at about 20 knots.

We are anchored in just four metres in the second of two lagoons just inside the encircling reef of Moorea at the iconic bay of Opunohu (Bali Hai) - you'll all have seen it in the Sunday Colour supplements - a bit like 'Fatu Hiva on steroids' to quote something I read. There were just five other boats here, the crews of which, like us, stayed on board during all of Monday.

All of these Society Islands combine the key features of the Marquesas Islands - striking lush green vertiginous volcanic forms, with those of the Tuamotus Islands- an encircling coral reef. The passes are generally less challenging than the Tuamotus and the reefs deliver a navigable stretch of water around most of the islands with relatively shallow, swell-protected anchorages perfect for snorkelling, diving and kite surfing.

Our two night 200 mile trip from Rangiroa went according to plan though we had to reduce sail during the second night to assure daylight arrival. The passage had taken us via the five/six mile gap between Rangiroa and its unseen (in the dark) neighbour Tikehau and a similar distance off Makatea and Tetiaroa en route, with the loom of Tahiti clearly visible from about 35 miles off.

The cruise ship Paul Gauguin followed us through the well marked pass in to Opunohu Bay and there was much traffic of her passengers ashore to the dock at Papetoia and then on to various water and land-based tours. Moorea must be a special stop as they are here for two days and all the pearl and other stalls (tours, taxis, hire cars, even chilled damp towels!) were still doing business when we went ashore this morning for our internet fix at the post office, essential supplies (baguette, tea bags, apples and tomatoes) and a coffee at the only snack bar. Two lane roads with much traffic including buses are evidence of development at quite a different scale to that we have seen so far in the Pacific!

World ARC catamaran Makena arrived here mid morning - it was good to catch up for a coffee with them and then to see Luc and friend showing their kite-surfing skills in the 20 knot winds amongst the reefs and anchored boats. We wonder whether we will have the bottle (or required physique!) to tackle either this past-time or indeed scuba-diving which seems to be the other 'must do' activity whilst in these waters!

Peter (Skipper)