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Exody - Days 39 /40 - Galapagos : Sea Lions + Inspection Committee



We anchored at Puerto Bauquerizo Mareno on the easternmost island of San Cristobal at 01.44 local time this morning Thursday 19th February having felt our way through the very dark night along the north coast of the island just one mile offshore, soaking up the tropical aromas of the land and routing inside the barely discernible profile of tourist attraction Kicker Rock. Others in the fleet both ahead and astern of us awaited daylight to make their final approach - but we all needed the sleep, trusted the chartplotter and went for it!

The last 200 odd miles and 24 hours has to go down in our record as the best close-hauled sail yet - it was a real pleasure not to be dead downwind, to fully use both sails and to be romping along a smooth ocean at up to 8 knots with under 12 knots of south-east trades. We had been very lucky with our routing that enabled us to lay the island (just) without tacking when the south/southeasterly winds picked up and others who had taken a northerly route were less fortunate. At first light we converged with Ayama and gradually overhauled her with good mid-ocean mutual photo opportunities! It was great to see another of the fleet after days of empty horizons.

Picking our way into the anchorage amongst the lights of cargo ships, including the grounded one recently in the news, we were soon aware of the sea lions barking. All very quickly asleep and taking advantage of the additional hour (now UTC/Greenwich minus 6 hours) for more rest as we had to be up early for our 'inspection'.

The inspection team arrived at Exody by water taxi- six of them in the cockpit plus the agent and three in the water to inspect the hull - required to be 100% growth-free. Reps from harbour, national park, immigration, customs, health went through their respective questioning and examining. We had eaten all of our forbidden fruit - but they still searched all food lockers and fridge - plus other lockers just in case. Statements and policies ref garbage and black water were confirmed, forms filled and signed. All over in about 40 minutes before the good-humoured entourage moved on to the next vessel. "You are very lucky to be here so you must understand our need to check everything carefully before welcoming you" said one.

Dinghies are not used here because sea lions get everywhere - the record is apparently atop the cabin roof of an Amel 54 and all catamarans are prime targets. Makena had three on her access platform last time I looked and the creatures literally litter the landing pontoons and inquisitively investigate new arrivals- approaching like a basking shark fin, one flopping flipper out the water whilst swimming side stroke with the other. Many boats have carefully arranged defences to their bathing/access platforms comprising fenders and cats cradles of ropes.

Once cleared we made it ashore for lunch and cold drinks and a brief walk around of the small fairly sleepy town. All our tours here need to be organised from land since free cruising is prohibited (or for the super rich who can afford the permits and bureacracy). We start tomorrow with the ARC organised Kicker Rock tour and swim and then we need to organise our own trips for the coming two weeks from here and from the other two permitted anchorages on the islands of Isabella and Santa Cruz.

Peter (Skipper)



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