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Firefly - The Great Barrier Mussel Festival



Firefly arrived at Great Barrier Island on 2nd January and we have spent a week anchored in Forestry Bay within Port Fitzroy. On arriving there we had no intention of staying quite so long but it was such a beautiful spot and great weather, good company and the forthcoming Mussel Festival meant the anchor stayed firmly on the bottom.

From the Mokahinau Islands we initially went to a bay called Miner's Cove and it was not the best choice. It was open to the south and that was where the wind came from. Not strong enough to cause a problem but it did mean Firefly rocked and rolled all night. Port Fitzroy was chosen as the next destination as it was so well enclosed and Firefly would remain steady.

It was actually incredibly busy when we arrived on Saturday 3rd January. Great Barrier is relatively close to Auckland, only about 50 miles away, and it being mid summer and holiday season a lot of Kiwi's had bought their boats over. The average Kiwi is very keen on fishing and therefore the types of boats people use in NZ varies quite a lot from the UK. About 2/3rds of the boats are planing motor cruisers, mostly quite small with some getting to the size one might call a 'gin palace' - all have numerous fishing rods - the remaining 1/3 are sail boats, quite a few of them being relatively small with Firefly being one of the larger ones.

Although NZ is on holiday for most of January, by the Sunday morning some boats were heading off home. Our friends Mike and Tracey arrived in their yacht Allegresse and we able to anchor nearby. Although they live in NZ they are both from the UK and we have a lot in common including the fact that Allegresse is 42 feet long and made from wood (its cold moulded in Kauri Pine). The next day Mike and Paul tramped (in NZ they called hiking, tramping) for about 8 hours to reach the top of Mount Hobson the highest point on the Island with spectacular views. The following day we hired a car and all toured Great Barrier. Its about 20 miles long and 10 miles wide, mountainous and the roads are very narrow and winding. Therefore it did take all day to see the sights.

Windy Canyon was the first stop with a short walk leading to another great viewing point. Driving over towards Whangaparapara we picked up a footpath that led us to the Kaitoke hot springs were we bathed in Jacuzzi temperature waters. To cool off after lunch we went to Medlands beach for a swim in the sea, something we have not done very often so far in NZ as its not quite as warm as we are used to in the tropics! Back at the Port Fitzroy Boat Club (which is really just the local Tavern) we enquired about the Mussel Fest that they were hosting in a couple of days time. It had been advertised all over the island and when we asked the young bar lady what it was like, she got so excited and animated that we decided, there and then, that we were staying in Port Fitzroy and we would attend.

The night before the Festival the bays of Port Fitzroy filled up again and there were boats of all shapes and sizes anchored everywhere. The landing dock was littered with dinghies as we went ashore and for the first time in the past week there was quite a strong wind blowing. As we neared the boat club there was a call on the PA system and 3 boats, with names given, were reported to be dragging their anchors. All day long, announced on the PA between the various songs played by the bands - there would be announcements about boats dragging their anchors. We didn't see or hear of any damage but did manage to get some better seats when the owners of one of the errant yachts had to leave in a hurry!

The Festival was very well attended and we did eat a few green lipped mussels washed down with Kiwi beer while sitting in the sun listing to the music - life is tough out here! However, with a forecast the following day for more wind and overcast skies it was agreed that it was time for Firefly and Allegresse to move. Mike and Tracey headed north and we took Firefly out past Smokehouse Bay and headed south. In a light north east wind and a big swell we managed to sail most of 20 mile passage to Port Charles on the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula. The clouds disappeared on our approach and its yet another spectacular place and apart from some resident fishing boats we have this place to ourselves.

Paul and Susie


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