It’s always exciting to visit a new restaurant.
For weary reviewers, new ventures are like shining beacons on the horizon. Some disappear overnight, others slowly sink, while the few that weather the swirling fortunes of hospitality stand proudly like cardinals, setting and maintaining standards.
16 Degrees North is Jean Pierre Thomas’ latest enterprise after his well-earned break following the success of Australian restaurant Rasputin’s.
At first glance, 16 Degrees could almost be mistaken as a pop up restaurant, the infuriating worldwide trend which celebrates fast messy food, delivering to an undiscerning under 30 populace. The restaurant somehow seemed a little transient last night, as though it was just passing by. Not surprising given the doors only opened 9 days ago. No doubt the kitchen and front of house will feel more anchored as they get a few more miles under their belts.
Maritime décor is a significant departure from Jean Pierre’s usual aesthetic approach but it works well in this instance, to the extent that one of our party swore that he could feel the table rolling on waves. When he said he could smell the salt, we gave him salts to smell.
Our choice of dining al fresco was a wise one, the restaurant’s interior looking a little cramped. As the sun set and stars appeared, the ambience of an ocean setting became so authentic one wondered whether Heston Blumenthal was out the back working his magic.
To the food. All the talk of the sea had us dreaming about fresh crab claws, whole sole and snapper fillets. Alas, the catch of the day had returned zero and admirably, seafood does not appear on 16 Degrees’ menu unless it has been caught in the last 90 minutes. Not sure how the restaurant manages the supply logistics of this however the commitment to seasonal sustainable practices is one which should be followed by every restaurant on the planet. Jean Pierre was a little shy when asked about seafood availability tomorrow, and suggested we talk to Pedro the Fisherman.
Jean Pierre’s knack for taking something traditional and creating an extra special dish continues at 16 Degrees. Elevating the humble egg and bacon pie was never going to be easy but when a fluffy filo parcel arrived, we sat momentarily stunned. It was beautiful.
The exceptional filo was crisp yet remained buttery, so much so our table was unanimous in thinking that chef had employed the French tradition of melting the butter well before basting. Inside, whole cooked yolks and robust strips of Spanish bacon prevailed. No unnecessary blending of ingredients at 16 Degrees.
A fresh Mediterranean salad, light on oil, was an ideal accompaniment with crisp pieces of green capsicum peppers (also Spanish we believe) a perfect foil for the buttery filo and rich yolks.
Dessert was a tropical delight of sliced mango, a little on the small side as though the kitchen had carved four serves from one piece of fruit. Who’s to complain about size in such a wonderful setting and we have not penalised 16 Degrees for this oversight. Or for the lack of iced orange sorbet which appears on the menu to complete the duo of desserts. We understand new restaurants have recurring refrigerator and battery challenges.
The practical side of things. The one staff member was attentive although a little distracted. When asked about the notable absence of a wine list she was vague muttering that the liquor licence had been suspended for up to 20 days for earlier indiscretions. Wheelchair access: no. Children welcome: unlikely. Parking: no. Telephone bookings: yes via satellite. Opening hours: weather dependent.
Star rating and summary: We’ve given 16 Degrees 4 of 5 stars today. This newcomer is to be welcomed on the Atlantic’s ailing restaurant scene. We look forward to returning as soon as Jean Pierre notifies us that seafood has returned to the menu.
- The captive critic