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Firefly - Arch Rock Cove, Mokohinau Islands, NZ



On New Years Day we left our mooring in Whangerei at 0700, the early start being required as the estuary is very tidal and shallow in places. We fueled up at Marsden Cove Marina and headed out to sea expecting good weather and a light to moderate breeze. Our intended destination was Port Fitzroy harbour, also called 'Smokehouse Bay' on Great Barrier Island.

Christmas and the New Year celebrations had been great fun but it was good to be on the move again as Firefly had been moored off Wakianga Beach for 8 days. The mooring being provided by the owners of Seaview Cottage, the property Barney and Juanita had rented for the festive season. Having the boat in such close proximity had been really useful and we had enjoyed sleeping on the boat but having the land based amenities close at hand. Trips in the old but reliable 'Pomme Carrier' (the car Juanita had borrowed from her cousin based in NZ) to Whangerei Falls and Kuari Forest, Tane Mahuta - the largest living Kauri tree and Ocean Beach had all been excellent. We did go out on the water one day and had a lovely afternoon's sailing down and out of the estuary with Barney, Juanita, Jasmine and James aboard. We then tucked into Uruquart's Bay for the night. We dinghied ashore, took a walk over the Whangerei Heads and then went back to Firefly for a 'Barney Special' Prawn Curry, washed down with some 'Steinies', apparently NZ'z favorite lager.

While in Whangerei the weather had been dry, sometimes sunny, but mainly overcast. Following rain overnight on New Years Eve, the forecast for early January was looking really good. As Firefly sailed away towards the various Islands that lie to the east of the North Island the sun came out and the promised light to moderate breeze filled in. In 10 to 12 knots she close reached at 6 knots past Tuaranga, the 'Hen' of the Hen and Chicken Islands. Consulting our excellent 'Spot X' pilot book we decided to divert our course and head for the tiny Mokohinau Islands, about 30 miles offshore from the mainland. These are Islands to visit only in fair weather but as everything was as forecast we decided to see if there was a sheltered anchorage.

New Year is a busy boating time of year in NZ and as we approached Mokohiau there were several other boats around, mainly the ubiquitous small motor cruiser all geared up for fishing. Despite the low wind speed there was still a considerable swell running from the North East, the opposite direction to the wind. Arch Rock Cove offered the best protection, a small bay surrounded by cliffs and protected by Arch Rock itself, the archway being big enough to pass through the dinghy. As we joined a small sailing boat in the anchorage a Korora, a Blue Penguin swam by and once settled down we saw several more.

The anchorage was absolutely stunning, with clear water and steep cliffs with vegetation just hanging on. It was ok for the night but not that comfortable, the wind tending to gust through the various gaps in between the land and the swell continuously rolling in so that Firefly was dancing and rocking about. Paul's Christmas present, the new 9.8HP Tohatsu was commissioned for a tour of the islands by dinghy. The trusty Honda 2.3HP will still be used for short trips as its so lightweight and convenient, however, the bigger outboard is something we have needed for some time when undertaking the longer dinghy trips we often make when cruising in these kind of places.

Friday the 2nd of January looks set to be another sunny day, there is not a cloud in the sky. Smokehouse Bay will be our destination later on after another dinghy expedition to Burgess Island, the only Island in Mokohinau where landing is allowed. If the swell allows we will go ashore and climb up the hill to the lighthouse.

Paul and Susie



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