The Kingdom of Tonga was named the friendly isles by Captain Cook, who was
in many ways ahead of his time, or perhaps he began a self fulfilling
prophecy. Today they are indeed some of the friendliest people we have come
across but back when he anchored in the bay in 1777 and was invited to and
entertained at local feast, the plan was it would be his last! The feast was
a ruse, by gathering all the sailors together, they could be more easily
dispatched and the ships looted! Local chief Finau couldn't agree with his
nobles on the details of Capt Cooks earthly demise and he left non the
wiser. Not quite so lucky was the crew of the ship Port au Prince who in
1806 was attacked and looted with the loss of all hands, but one - William
Mariner, who believed to be the captains son was taken in by the chief Finau
and became his political aid - he wrote a good book!
Anyway here we are, in the northern group of islands around Vavau, the shape
of which creates protected channels for sailing without waves or swell and
dotted in amongst are smaller islands with sandy beaches and coral reefs,
lots of vegetation and small hills. It is really rather picture perfect.
There are no resorts or developments to be seen, just the occasional village
living a subsistence life style with pigs and piglets everywhere.
There is no tourism to speak of here, and apart from the ex pats bars and
restaurants in the main 'town' there is no interest in a tourist industry -
which is refreshing! Cycling through a local village, people seem genuinely
interested in what you're doing, why we are here, no one offers anything for
sale, or asks for anything in return. After trying our luck at a rather
muddy track, which proved impassable, the local children were very amused at
the state of us and our bikes but quickly produced a hose pipe and helped
clean us down. Obviously well brought up and told not to accept sweets from
strangers they turned down our proffered chocolate cookies!
Back on the water having said good bye to Gerard, Chris and David and
welcomed back onboard Birgit (Dan's mum) we have began cruising around. Our
first stop was Port Maurelle, this is one of the few places Em managed to
stop on her Skye 51 pacific delivery in 2007, the spark that began choosing
Skyelark and this adventure. From there we dinghied into Swallow's cave
which through a narrow entrance opens up into a tiny harbour, beyond which
is a larger dry chamber that was used for noble feasts. A small opening
above creates dramatic lighting and allowed food and drinks to be passed
down to the guests. On from there we snorkelled around the island of Nuku,
whose white sand beach entertained our very own Queen Elizabeth and whose
waters were host to the most vibrant purple starfish and yellow coral we
have seen. Next stop Tapana, on which we found the restaurant Paella, a
little piece of Spanish paradise, which if in Spain would have a million
euro view! We ambled up the path serenaded by flamenco guitar and were
greeted by Chiquita the tame house goat! The menu looked great, and the food
smelled sublime, a set menu of 8 courses of tapas, followed by Paella and
home made desert! Imagine our dismay when we learnt they need 24 hours
notice and they are booked up until Tuesday! So now we find ourselves
anchored in turquoise waters, off the private resort and kite beach of Mounu
island, and we are booked in for supper!
House Goat